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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all - not wanting to let Paul G. show me up here, my 67 is finally getting a much deserved facelift. We should have it painted within the month, but for now you can check out the work in progress.. and try not to laugh too hard - my 68 is pretty pathetic right now.

http://www.blackmariah.net
 

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I really liked your website, loved the not for purist. The work required to get a car in shape is exhausting isnt it? The only thing I want to point out is the specs you give on the motor. You dont tell what pistons you used, but you stated that the heads have been milled to give approx 9-10 to 1. I go along with that but when you stated that the block was milled to zero deck height I think you may want to refigure your comp ratio. Decking the block raises the comp in a hurry as you are milling a whole 4.030 area at a time. Depending on the size of the chambers on your heads, milling .010 on the deck can be like milling .020 on the head as far as compression goes. I think if you used flat top pistons you will have more compression than you think. Should run like a stripped assed ape though.mm
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The thing about that motor..

Good point , and I definitely need to get more info re: the motor build up. See, around March of last year I needed to replace the motor. As luck would have it, I found an ad on classifieds2000 for that motor. After talking to the guy who had it, I got the motor + installation for $1200 flat. Guess he was hurting for cash at the time. It only had about 200 miles on it when I first drove it back home.

Well, about a year later I realized I really didn't know much about it, so I emailed him to see if he could tell me what had gone into it. Well, what I posted is what he could remember at that time.

As I don't know too much (yet) about motors I can only really give you my 'hands on' experience with this thing. It runs hot. Damn hot. Stop and go traffic is not much of an option at this time - though I'm working on fixing that. As far as actual driving, the 2.89 8" rear that's in it at the moment doesn't do much for stoplight to stoplight hops, but out on the highway - plant the gas to the floor and it's downright scary. :) I've gotten it up around 130 or so on I5, but it was really starting to lift in the nose.
 

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I didnt realize that you were running the motor already. You need to run a compression test on it and find out what kind of cyl pressure you have. Like I said it ought to run well but high compression motors do like to run hotter than lower compression ones that could be part of your heat problems if you still have all the original cooling system. High comp motors like good high octane gas and I know that most of the gas around the Chicagoland area wheree I live is not good enough to run much over 10-1. I couldnt belive it when I had one of my race car engines running hot in a car that always ran cool and my engine builder insisted that the 108 unocal fuel was the problem. I switched to VP 112 and it cooled down. This was just an example as this was a true 14-1 motor and I'm not suggesting that you need VP 112. I'm saying that if you have alot of comp that a little 20" 2 core radiator maybe too small for a high horsepower pavement ripper, and that you need good gas and to watch things like ign timming as they also have a bareing on engine heat. mm
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Another good point

I'd gotten a custom 3 row radiator built for it, using denser row/dimpled tubing. This actually made a drastic improvement over the stock radiator that was in there before, but alas this alone was not quite enough.

I'm switching over to an Edelbrock Victor water pump shortly - we'll see if that helps some. Possibly might try a Griffon aluminum radiator as well depending on how much a difference the water pump makes.

It's all trial and error I guess. I will give the higher octane gas a shot and see what happens.
 

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If you go to a alum rad, the one I had the best luck with was actually a 2 core, but each tube was twice as wide as regular. It was really like a 4 core. I went threw quite a few radiators and in my experiance the alum didnt cool as well as some of the better brass/copper. I remember hateing a griffin that I had once as the fins were way to close together and they plugged up to easly, but that was on a dirt late model and that type may work good on a street car. I had good luck with the eldebrock water pump, more flow is always better. Make sure you use a high flow thermastat, not a cheap stocker. mm
 
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