[CrazyCat]

Looks like I got the same luck as Texrep. I was replcaing the water pump and 2 bolts broke off. One, I was able to remove with vise grips, and the other only had 1/4 inch of bolt sticking out, so the vise grips would not work.

So, I borrowed a Snap-on bolt extractor kit from a friend. No problem, right? WRONG! I drilled a hole in the broken bolt and when I torqued down on the extractor bit, SNAP! It busted right off inside the broken bolt.

I tried to drill it out again, but I cant drill into the broken peice of hardened steel extractor. I tried everything, PB blaster, more vise grips, hammer, etc... Looks like I need a new front cover......

This bolt does not pass through the cover to the block. It is just for retaining the pump. any ideas?

 

[edsel]

heat em up!

cant you use a cutting torch,heat up the bolt hole,apply a little air,watch out for flying metal and insert a threaded stud?

 

[straycat22]

I know what you going threw i had a similar thing happen to me i was removing exhaust manifolds on a 390 for my pickup a bolt broke off flush with the head i drilled out the bolt starting with a small bit then used a bit just smaller then the hole. It was going good until i tried to clean out the hole with a tap it broke off too, it took me a week to get it out , sound like your is a bit tougher just don't give up

 

[modifiedmark]

Ok, here is how you maybe able to get it out if you have a welder and are good with it.

You say about 1/4" is sticking out right? Thats a 5/16" bolt so get a 3/8"(or maybe 7/16", what ever fits) nut and force it over the end of the broken blot. Then here is the tricky part. Weld the inside of the nut to the bolt and then you can turn out the broken bolt with the welded on nut.

I know its tricky welding inside a nut that small, but it can be done. I have personally used this procedure many times but you have to have the welding ability to get it welded solid. The heat of the welding seems to help brake them loose.

On something that small a mig would be my weapon of choice. Good luck.mm

 

[vfret]

OK. I've been here a million times with the same problem. First off it wasn't on any car. It was on an aircraft (EA-6B to be exact). When I was in the NAVY we came across this all the time.

The smaller the extractor is, the harder this method is to use.
Depending on the size of the stud extractor that broke off inside will depend on the size center punch you will use to shatter the remaining piece of screw extractor. If it's a small extractor than use a small center punch. You get the idea. If there is no exposed extractor than use a slightly larger drill bit to remove some of the broken bolt to get down to the broken extractor. Once you can see the extractor, take the appropriate size center punch and use it in conjunction with a hammer to shatter the remaining extractor. The extractor will shatter given a hard enough strike with a BFH. Once the extractor has shattered you can use air or a pick to get the pieces out. BE PATIENT. I do have another trick or too but you really have to be on top of your game for them to work. Meaning having lots of experience using these methods.
This has worked many times for me. Good luck.

By the way, Modifiedmark I like your method too. I'll put that one away in my archives for future use.

 

[xr7gt]

What if...

You didn't have a welder. Do you think JB WELDing the 3/8"(or whatever size fits) nut to the stud would work? I would think it might.. If you take off the cover I know of a place that can probably remove it here in Orange County, but by the time you take it off, and come up here you could have been putting the new one on...Huh?

 

[modifiedmark]

JB weld? I dont think so!! Its great stuff for alot of things but I have my doubts about it working for this.

Vfret, I have also "chipped" broken taps and extractors out as you say and it works. I have also "torched" them out on bigger bolts on big trucks and farm equipment. A extractor broken inside a 5/16"bolt in a potmetal housing is tough one though.mm

 

[CrazyCat]

Sounds like a sure fix Mark, but I dont happen to have a welder.
I'm not sure that I'd have enough meat on the bolt to weld onto.
Its a bit mangled from the vise grips. So the JB might not work either.

Vfret, I'll give that a try tomorrow. I would have never thought of that.

I'm gonna beat the bolt to hell tomorrow. What to I have to loose? If I can rip the threads out of the front cover, I'll just tap it for one size up.

Thanks for the comments.

 

[vfret]

Be sure to let us know what worked.

 

[wvcat]

Sometimes you can get lucky by taking a hacksaw blade and cutting a groove in the bolt and using a screwdriver but this only works when the bolt turns easy. The problem here(why the bolt broke to begin with) is probably rust. If you could figure out a way to get the rust out of the hole around the bolt it would make life easier, maybe a 1/16 drill bit followed by penetrating oil around the perimeter of the bolt. If all else fails you will have to remove the timing cover, which may not be a bad thing. It looks like its been on there for a long time. I would bet the timing chain is probably in need of replacement and you are almost there anyway. Heres a tip for you: Get a breaker bar and socket that fits the damper, turn the damper back and forth a couple of inches and you will be able to feel how much slack is in the timing chain.
Good Luck
John

 

[cougar1]

Heat! Any time I've had a siezed bolt, the best way to get it out is to heat up the surrounding area. I would heat the cover around the bolt and use the 1/4 inch sticking out with vise grips to remove it.
Careful beating the crap out of the bolt, the cover could crack!
Also, you said if you rip the threads, you would tap one size up. If you tap one size up, you also have to drill the water pump so the one size up bolt goes thru. Just my 2 cents.

Love the welding of a nut to the bolt idea MM!!!

Nice bypass hose by the way! just kidding....

 

[CrazyCat]

aaaahhhhhhhh!

Ok. I did it! But it was a bit of a fiasco.
I tried a torch on the cover, but could not grip the bolt head.
Then I drilled into the bolt at an angle and hit the bolt with a punch, trying to shatter the stuck peice of extractor.It didnt shatter, but it came out a bit and after awhile I was able to get it out.
I drilled out the rest of the bolt and used a tap to re-thread the hole. On the last twist of the tap, it snapped off flush with the hole.

Now I was back where I started. It took me an hour to bust up the tap and remove the peices. the threads are a bit mangled but I will force feed a stud w/ loctite in the hole and it should work good.

I borrowed both of the tool I broke, so now I have to buy him some new ones. and they have to be Snap-on!

I havent bolted up the pump yet. I still need to get one long bolt that napa did not have.

Dont mind the spray paint on the oil filter.
:

 

[CrazyCat]

Wvcat,
How much slack should there be in the timing chain?
I was able to turn the damper with my hands about 1/8" in either direction before the internals started to move. Is this ok?

 

[wvcat]

1/8th of an inch is not much play at all and I would expect that much from a new chain. If you are getting 1/8th to a 1/4 turn on the crank before you feel the slack in the chain tighten up then you should think about replacing the chain before it decides to jump a tooth and leave you stranded somewhere like a walmart parking lot or mcdonalds. Most of the time when a timing chain jumps a tooth it does it when you shut off the car.
John
wvcat

 

[vfret]

Congrats, Helicoils work really well to replace worn out thread holes. They also allows you to use the original size bolt. A;ll you do is drill the hole bigger, tap it, then insert the helicoil.

 

[modifiedmark]

I'm glad you got it out, but I bet the air was't safe for young ears when that tap broke. Now before you put all the bolts in you should consider some anti sieze compound on all the bolts so you wont have this happen again. mm

 

[xr7gt]

2 out of 3

After reading Tex Reps grumblings and the posting of Crazy Cat's fiasco. I too decided to try my hand at changing the Water Pump on my 1967. On Easter when no one was open. I have A/C smog and the Power Steering that I had to contend with... But alas I was triumphant after 5 hours of battle, all the while visions of rusty bolts snapping in my head.. It can be done.
So now it stands 2 for 3.
Thanks for totally worrying me guys...
Xr7GT

 

[leonbray]

Had a great day - replaced the bushes in the shifter and redid seals.

Busted three bolts/screws and had to drill them out and retap holes. Two hour job took all day !!!!!

Can we terminate this thread before I have to do any more work on one of my cars and ban all threads relating to engine blow-ups, transmission failures and other catastrophic events before they put the knocker on me

 

[texrep]

well.... I guess wer'e 3 for 3 now We did the bolt/weld thing on friday afternoon and yes the POS bolt did finnaly yield. I got it back together. and ran it down the road and thats when the heater hose blew....DOH. Replaced that and npow Texreps cat is back on the road :



Don