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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Went to town on the engine bay, welded up some holes I don't need anymore, what started out as a scuff-up became a full on bare metal job. That's what happens when you go see Mad Max on saturday.

 

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Yeah, I started out with a scuff as well and ended up removing all paint from every nook and cranny. It was worth it in the long run and the under coating looks great. I did the same stuff I think and really like it.
 

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Your gonna to want to stick to front sump. Easy swap......also make sure you figure out your front pulley arrangement and which side the rad outlet/water pump will need to be. They get flipped around in some cases. (also note if it's reverse rotation) the dipstick will not be in the timing case - but you could swap that over too. You paln to stay carbed - or go EFI?
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Staying carbed for sure, I know its not as good as EFI technically, but I enjoy keeping some things the way they were. Staying with v-groove belts etc. too. I was assuming I would use my stock '68 timing cover and block off the fuel pump hole with a plate, or am I off-base with that thinking? Trying to treat it as much like a '68 302 as possible, 28oz. imbalance, 3 bolt balancer, but with the improvements of the 1-piece rear seal and roller cam :)
 

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Sounds good - keep in mind the 28 oz applies to the crank as well.....which means that needs swapped (maintaning your 3 bolt stuff too) SO - yeah, your basically avoiding retrofitting an earlier block to a roller cam. The best of both worlds! Go with modern heads and electronic ignition and she will be very reliable and look old school.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Some minor progress in between being a dad this weekend:
Got the engine bay sealed and shot with 2k epoxy primer, next up the satin black.
Also re-assembled the rear with new T-loc and 3.40 gears, that was a learning process but I enjoyed it. Below are some shots of the wear pattern if anyone wants to comment. Looks pretty centered to me on both the drive and coast sides...





 

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You braved that setup yourself!? Looks pretty good - not an easy thing to get right.....lots of detail and patience huh!
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
lots of detail and patience huh!
I'll say. Picked up a dial indicator and mag stand on ebay for $20, which was instrumental. Plus I needed a beam-type in/lbs torque wrench to test the pinion preload, my clicker type wouldn't work for that, to me that was the most anxious part. The R&P instructions called for 25 in/lbs of preload (rotation resistance) on the pinion which honestly felt tight (OEM looks to be 10-14 from what I read) but it confirmed in a few other areas for these modern replacement bearings. Hope that's right, or I'll be back in there at some point for another go-around.

I fabbed a spanner for the carrier ends out of a spare piece of 2" steel and a couple 1/4" bolts that were laying around. Started the pinion with the same .020 shim it had in there before and that put me at that current wear pattern once backlash was dialed to .007 (per the new ring gear specs, which were also tighter than OEM from what I've read) so I have a James Bond differential so to speak.

The only part I was guessing at was the tightening of the carrier ends, I brought them in real tight to seat everything, then relaxed a hair and brought them back again until I could just feel a little resistance for the diff to spin, then I kept them synched from there when adjusting.

Honestly there were some good youtube videos out there that helped too. The Auto Resto Mod one is good once you get thru all the silly intros.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Cleaned up the interior as best as I was willing to, hit it with some acid/rust converter in tight spots, resealed the seams and went to town with 2k epoxy and Raptor bed liner. Love the results.















 
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