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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thanks for the info, I'm planning on a cable clutch, not the Z bar, I was under the impression that this allowed for using the A/T headers?

Also I figured I'd be switching the roller block to a front sump pan like the original engine? Wouldn't a rear sump hit the cross member?
 

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"" remember the modern mills have internal 28 oz balance and the old ones are 50 Oz external. ""


I think it is the other way around ... old small blocks 289/302 were 28 oz newer ones are 50 oz ....

all 351 W were 28 0z
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Had a couple people ask about the rotisserie plans. Here's some screen grabs from the 3D file I built with general dimensions, and some photos of various mounting points etc:





At both ends I added a brace into the trunk & engine bay to stabilize the setup when the car is in the horizontal...





At the rear I needed to add some wedges to mate to the rear bumper area cleanly:



I bought some extra long 3/8" carriage bolts for mounting since they go thru a few 2-bys



The front mounts to some of the existing apron holes that are very close to the frame crossmember, one hole is inside, the other outside the apron (shown)
Notice there is a single 2x4 spacer showing, this gets the rotisserie end to clear the frame extensions on the front.



Once tipped up it was not tippy, but I added a little kickstand on the radius just for added safety (bottom left)

 

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Missed the reply.....Yeah- I think that being the case the A/T headers would work most likely. (not 100% sure) I think you would have all kinds of trouble unless you stick with stock type front sump pan - cross member being one. Also note that the roller motors are 28 OZ internal balance......so be sure you use the correct flywheel/tooth counts, and the correct harmonic balancer. The old school pulleys were 3 bolt......you can get balancers that are tapped for 3 bolt ones though
 

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Love that rotisserie. Welding floor pans and cleaning rust with a wire brush is no fun when the car is 18" off the ground.

Good luck on the project. Looking forward to seeing it come together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks Billy, wrapping up seam sealer this weekend and finally getting the undercoat on. I'll snap some pics of the process and post 'em before I set it sunny side up again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Cleaned up all the suspension parts, ready for epoxy primer and satin black...
Question, what do you guys do with threaded components like strut rod ends, axle U-bolts etc.? Paint em and retouch after installing?
Not trying to sound picky but I live on the coast in New England and anything not painted will rust in 5 minutes.

 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Suspension parts came out great, used Eastwood chassis black and a LVLP gun (yes LOW volume low pressure) which came out great. Then found out my wife's Toyota 4runner had severe rust where the frame goes by the muffler (heat+cold+salt+water=welding fun) which I was fortunately able to cut out and repair with angle steel. Time lost on MY car tho!

I did start breaking down the 8 inch posi so I can swap in some 3.40 gears that should compliment the T5 I'm swapping in. Picked up a Motive Gear ring & pinion set with the bearings and races etc. Anyone have good or bad reviews of these?

I did a bunch of gear calculation to arrive at the 3.40 as a hopefully good balance for my engine & drivetrain. I'm building a roughly 9.5:1 compression 331 roller/stroker using Keith Black reverse dome pistons, aiming for very streetable stroker with at least noticeable more punch than the original 302. The '91 WC T5 is a 3.35 thru .68 gearset and I do want to drop the highway RPMs so I thought the 3.40 setup seemed like the best fit.

Opinions welcomed!

 

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I clear coated my threads, but taking bolts on and off exposes bare thread, so... Looking good!

I will be swapping out my auto tranny and rear for something else down the road to make it more manageable on longer trips and highway, just not a priority now. Not sure about the Motive Gear set.
 

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Richmond is my preferred gear set vendor. I use matte clear on blackened fasteners, cast blast on natural (and touch up as needed). White Cadmium and Zinc Dichromate I leave alone. Had all the fasteners on Isabel replated. I am in NJ so I feel your pain!
 

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I have the same subframe connectors, except for convertible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Richmond is my preferred gear set vendor.
Thanks (Bob is it?) I've inspected the Motive kit pretty close visually and it passes muster in that sense (clean finish, no sloppy machining etc.) I'm going to put some calipers on the races/bearings etc and check tolerances for anything tell-tale there before I commit and install. I'll report back...
 

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sure be nice to leave it all sealed up just like that .. Then spray the sound deaden-er / undercoating on the inside where it will be hidden .....
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
I did consider just sealing with chassis black, but ultimately decided to spray on a layer of raptor liner.

Started out by taping off some functional surfaces and installing the floor plugs wrapped in plastic so that they will keep a decent seal.



Here's the bottom about 20 minutes after painting (removed taping right after so that it would separate from the liner cleanly.


Some close up details, taped off the subframe connectors and the front frame rails to keep those as a painted finish.


Glad to have this part wrapped, wish I had done it BEFORE doing the topside, but at least I didn't mess up the paint job in this process. Next up, engine compartment and font suspension...
 

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Very nice indeed! You are a master!
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Since I'll be taking the jig apart soon I figured I'd shoot a quick vid showing how easy it is to manage, Just a one man show ;)


 

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Very cool - now if only I had the space available in my garage to do that! ;>P
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Worked on the front end today getting ready to prep for paint but first I needed to weld in the shock tower reinforcements I got from WCCC, and drill out for a 1" shelby drop.

I must say, the weld-in plates were very well fit, and only took about 20 minutes each to get in there.





For the drop I didn't get too fancy, just used a small metal ruler, eyeballed the centerline across the existing holes, scribed a line, then used a small right angle to project vertical scribes down from each hole. nailed the intersections with a punch and drilled out progressively with 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". Only had to lightly dress the holes with a rat tail file and the control arms fit right in.



To fill in the old holes I sawed off bits of a 1/2" bolt at the right depth to use as plugs and welded around them, worked pretty good.





 
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