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Discussion Starter #1
Well all,
I am sad to say that I am forced to sell my Cougar. After a recent separation from my wife, I have had to move from my beautiful home into a small 500'sq ft studio. there is nowhere for me to work on the car, and I cannot afford to store her, so she has to go. I guess the silver lining is that someone will get the car that can fully restore, and enjoy her.

Thanks to everyone here for the tips and advice (even though i was not on very often). Hopefully I can get to a point where I can buy another cat, and become part of the "community" again.

Daniel Anderson
 

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Sorry to hear that Dan, been there done that. IT gets better
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes, i am only 27, so there will be more cars in my future. For now though I must try and get her started so I can sell her! SO FRUSTRATED. Car ran great until after I changed the fuel filter (in-line just before the carb). then she spit and sputtered and hasnt started since. I had the carb rebuilt (Holley 600CFM), and bout new cap, rotor, and spark plugs. It will crank, and sputter to life for a few seconds, but no running. I checked the tach and tach wire, all is fine there. I also looked in the gas tank, and see no rust whatsoever, it looks great. Any Ideas?
 

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if you pour some fuel (small amount) into the carb and it starts and runs, you have a fuel system problem, if it does not stay running check the wires on your soleniod,,
 

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You said it ran until you replaced the in-line fuel filter. Are you sure the filter is in right? They do have an IN and an OUT - usually marked with an arrow that points to the carb.
 

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Dan, sorry you have to say goodbye to the cat... sad times. Too bad we never met up while I was living in that neck of the woods.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
if you pour some fuel (small amount) into the carb and it starts and runs, you have a fuel system problem, if it does not stay running check the wires on your soleniod,,
After it sits for a day or two, it will fire and run for a few seconds, then nothing. Wont restart unless i let it sit for a few days.

You said it ran until you replaced the in-line fuel filter. Are you sure the filter is in right? They do have an IN and an OUT - usually marked with an arrow that points to the carb.
Yes, I even bought a new filter today just to be sure it was right.;

Dan, sorry you have to say goodbye to the cat... sad times. Too bad we never met up while I was living in that neck of the woods.
I agree, would have been nice to meet another Cat owner!

Sorry about the split up, Dan. You can always get more stuff, but a divorce is a big deal.
Indeed it is. I hope I can even sell the car, It has been listed for a while now with no interest, but then again the restoration car market is not huge right now.
 

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Dan, always check the easy ones first - is the carb float set right? Sounds like it's using all the gas in the bowl and can't get more. It may refill itself slowly ( wait time between starts) and start and run until bowl is empty again.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dan, always check the easy ones first - is the carb float set right? Sounds like it's using all the gas in the bowl and can't get more. It may refill itself slowly ( wait time between starts) and start and run until bowl is empty again.
Mike
I took the sight screws out, and the fuel just barely trickled out. I was told that was the proper level for the floats on this carb, was I misinformed?

In order to lower the float, am I to open the top screw, and adjust the nut clockwise?
 

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Hey Dan -

Just a shot in the dark here, but....you say that it ran fine until you messed with the filter and replaced it. By chance is there any rubber fuel line involved before or after the filter??? Often times that old rubber fuel line will de-laminate inside and restrict the flow. Also, where are the adjustment screws set? 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 should get you close enough to make it start, then fine tune. Can you rule out sabotage???

Jay
 

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I took the sight screws out, and the fuel just barely trickled out. I was told that was the proper level for the floats on this carb, was I misinformed?

In order to lower the float, am I to open the top screw, and adjust the nut clockwise?
For Holley, correct (and therefore no adjustment is needed).
 

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I took the carb apart on a fairly new Honda VTX that the owner was having similar trouble with. It had some sort of seed pod half stuck in the carb just upstream from the needle and seat.

Weird things happen. Don't rule out the weird.

Read the plugs after it dies and see if it's going lean or rich or normal.
 

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check spark too when it shuts off on you. I had a coil that would get warm and short and do just like you describe. But it would not take days to restart. Once it got back to ambient temp it would fire again.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Hey Dan -

Just a shot in the dark here, but....you say that it ran fine until you messed with the filter and replaced it. By chance is there any rubber fuel line involved before or after the filter??? Often times that old rubber fuel line will de-laminate inside and restrict the flow. Also, where are the adjustment screws set? 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 should get you close enough to make it start, then fine tune. Can you rule out sabotage???

Jay
The only rubber line that was not replaced is a small 8-10" piece that sits below the driver door, connecting the hard lines. I would replace it, but I am not sure if I need bigger line, as all the oter rubber line is 3/16, and that piece seems bigger. As far as sabotage, I would hate to think so as I live in a fairly quiet rural area.

I took the carb apart on a fairly new Honda VTX that the owner was having similar trouble with. It had some sort of seed pod half stuck in the carb just upstream from the needle and seat.

Weird things happen. Don't rule out the weird.

Read the plugs after it dies and see if it's going lean or rich or normal.
hmmm, interesting, i will have to look at that. The plugs appear to be pretty fuel fouled when i pull them out. They are VERY wet and smell like fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The car has a new double roller timing gear set, so I wouldnt think that it has skipped a tooth, so I am completely out of ideas! Only thing left to change out is the Solenoid, but would that cause a spark problem?
 

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If it ran fine before you did the work, recheck everything you touched. Did you gap the plugs when they were installed. Alot assume these plugs are pre gapped but its always good to actually check them, been there!! Check you cap and rotor for proper fit and go over the firing order. Check for any vacuum lines that may have been knocked off or cracked in the tune up process! Does your car have points? Check them also. Its more than likely a simple fix, but....what? Any of your buds mechanically skilled? Maybe fresh eyes would help!
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Plugs are gapped at .035, point gap is right on. I don't see any disconnected or cracked vacuum lines.

did a bit more searching today, and spotted a very small amount of oil around the cork intake manifold gasket (where it meets the head gasket). So I am guessing this may be causing a vacuum leak. thats the only thing I can find. I dont have any friends in the new town i live in that are at all mechanically inclined, and I surely cannot afford to take her to the local shop. I am not sure how to proceed, as I would hate to replace that intake mani gasket, only for that not to be the problem. :realmad:
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
SO here's where I'm at. Checked a few more things out. If I let the car sit for a few days, it will fire right up, runs a little rough, but runs nonetheless. It will run at about 2000 rpm for maybe 5-8 seconds then just peters out and dies. If i give it gas while it is running, it bogs and dies. It will not restart until it sits for several more days. The NEG battery cable gets incredibly hot, as does the POS cable (ONLY at the solenoid).

I checked the floats on the carb the second it died, and there was still fuel in the bowls. Also if i manually give it gas and look in the carb, there is definitely fuel being delivered.

Things left that i can think of, are to replace the solenoid (would that cause a problem with running??), replacing engine ground (but I do not see how that would gradually become an issue), and replace the intake manifold gasket in case of a leak (i have no way of testing for a leak here). What are your guys' thoughts?
 

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yes, i am only 27, so there will be more cars in my future. For now though I must try and get her started so I can sell her! SO FRUSTRATED. Car ran great until after I changed the fuel filter (in-line just before the carb). then she spit and sputtered and hasnt started since. I had the carb rebuilt (Holley 600CFM), and bout new cap, rotor, and spark plugs. It will crank, and sputter to life for a few seconds, but no running. I checked the tach and tach wire, all is fine there. I also looked in the gas tank, and see no rust whatsoever, it looks great. Any Ideas?
1. You say it ran fine before you changed the fuel filter? Correct? Was that the only thing you did at the time it started to give you trouble?

2. Next you talk about the carb being rebuilt along with a new cap, rotor and plugs. Ok. Was that before or after the fuel filter and the problem?

Just like being sick, you have symptoms here where you tried to fix things. It helps to know the exact time line to understand what is pertinent and what is not.
 
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