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Discussion Starter #1
I have a long one and a short one. The longer one runs the bigger u-joint and is installed now. Is there any reason to switch them other than to match the drive shaft yoke? (I have to run the Motorsport hybrid joint).

Anyone know the background on the two different yikes?

Matt
 

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Long yoke is the standard and the short one is the one used with the Daytona pinion support I believe...mostly in the N cases and slightly different due to a bigger bearing. I don't see a problem running it....anyone else?
 

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Vans and trucks used a long yoke for some reason. I imagine that's where your 3.70 gears came from anyway. We had a car with a u-joint with the hybrid big/small caps on it for years without an issue. We just bought two u-joints - one big and one small - and swapped the caps to make our own hybrid u-joint. Or you can buy a chevy u-joint since that's what they use. Or you could swap for the shorter one, but your driveshaft will probably be too short.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Motorsport M4635A.... thats the one

Not only does it have the larger caps but it is wider too.
 

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Yes, there are 1310 and 1330 yokes.

I have a 3.50 9 inch trac loc in my 1968 Cougar from a Bronco, I had to use a special conversion U-joint to blend the 1310 drive shaft and the 1330 yoke on my third member.
 

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I have found the short one pulls the drive shaft too far out of the transmision tailshaft on my SCJ car. I had a shake it the car when I first bought it, After changing to the longer one the shaking stopped. The PO had installed a 3.50 pumpkin in place of the 4.30. Luckely he included the 4.30 punpkin in the sale and I was able to compare the two yokes and find the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I will just keep the ling one in place for now. I see no reason to take the rear end apart to switch it.

Thanks everyone.

Matt
 

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I will just keep the ling one in place for now. I see no reason to take the rear end apart to switch it.

Thanks everyone.

Matt
It's just the pinion nut (and tapping it off and the other on) to change it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's just the pinion nut (and tapping it off and the other on) to change it.
I would loose the pinion bearing preload if I did that. (here is a decent set of instructions - http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/gearinstal.html ) The pinion and yoke are the first parts installed in the center section and the last ones out. I would have to completely disassemble my rear end to change the yoke properly. I suppose I could take a risk and wing it but I have no reason to change them at this time. I guess it would be a nice to have but not critical to get in to a 1310 joint.

Matt
 

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As long as you torque the pinion nut to the proper spec with a torque wrench (not to little and not too much), you should be good to go.
 
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