Mercury Cougar Owners banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
welllll i recently bought a 67 cougar and it came with a 8" rear end i wanna put a nine in it but im not sure that its necessary so my question is, is the 8 just as good as the 9 or is the nine better? if it was your car what would you put in it? and what 9" other than a mustang is compatible witha cougar
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
My two cents: The answer to your question lies in how you intend to use the car. I'd say that on the performance end, you should definitely go with a 9". But, if you're planning on staying stock or just tooling around town or the like without "showing your muscle", the 8" is a fine rear end.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanks

thanks for the info man oh hey how do you like that 373 ratio youre runnin? is it good off the start? what do you top out at on the free way?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
The car was originally modified to run eighth mile bracket. I tell people it tops out at around 100, but get you there in about 10 seconds!. Truthfully, I don't know how fast it is, but it'll set you back in the seat and I've barked the tires going into 3rd. Not bad for a 302.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
My2 cent. The 8 inch rear end is a very good piece if slightly built and will handle about 300-400 horse with no real problems from what I've seen. I had an 8 inch rear in my granada and it had a 351W in it and I abused it as much as possible. The 8 inch is a good rear end that has the ability but if your gonna build a fire breathing tire smoking dragster then you will prefer the 9 inch.


Just my 2 cents here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
I'm running the 9" rear end... Just cause I drag race my 68 std. Automatic transmissions and high gear ratios (numerically small, like 3.00) are particularly forgiving on rearends. Go with a trans brake or start launching a clutch car at 4000 rpm's and you'll blow up an 8". You'd have to get pretty aggressive to ever hurt your 8", I'd run it until you have a problem... If ever. My 9" is set up with 4.86's and runs about 6200 on the ticker through the traps in the 1/4, about 103 MPH. Oh, 28" tall slicks. The car isn't streetable with the approx 25" street tires anymore, feels like it's stuck in second!!!

Take it for what it's worth, probably less than 2 cents!

Ron.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
another question

ok so im gonna run a 3 speed tranny witha 289 puttin out some good horses maybe 400 or more what would be a good gear ratio ? i was thinkin 3:50 or a maybe like 3:00 or somewhere inbetween any good ideas? i want a good start but a high top speed i think ill get my top speed cuz of the three speed those are some long gears but any info would be good thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Seems like your thinking along the right lines... A 400 HP 289 is going to take some really aggressive cam profiles... along with some significant headwork... It can be done, but let me tell you my 302 really lacks low end torque due to the cam/ portwork I've got. It's got lots of power... above around 3700 on the ticker...just wants a high stall converter and a 4.86 gear to get launched. Makes things really uncivilian on the streets. Converter stalls with the 302 at 3000... still way too low, I want 3700 or so.

So, to answer your question... stay 3 to 3 1/2 on your rear gear unless you want to go with more cubes. The low end torque takes cubes to make.

I'm not trying to discourage you from doing anything you want, but I just want you to avoid some dissapointment of lots of work and $$$ for minimal gains on your 1/4 mile times.

Ron.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
got me all wrong

maaaaan im not looking for 1/4 mile times im looking for streetability and underestimating ford fanatics i guess im trying to revitalize the ford name lol i want to put to shame all the others they pull up at the light or even on the freeway and think that they can just leave me but when they look in their rear view mirror im not there cuz im in front lol yeah ok so im young at heart dont hate me cuz i have fuel in my blood
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Just because you're not racing at a proper drag strip doesn't mean that what you are looking for, fundamentally, is a fast car. The free standing 1/4 mile is only one, but perhaps the best measure of a fast car. You can have a car that makes a lot of power not be very fast unless you give it the proper gearing, converter, suspension, etc... Making changes and looking at timeslips is the only way I know to dial in a car. Heck, I started all this stuff just like you, but the power is in a word... INTOXICATING!

Take it from a moron like me, do your test and tuning at the drag strip, it's safer, and cheaper in the long run. Plus its funner, your not sweating getting arrested when you heat the tires up!! Keep your racing off the streets, that's where my wife drives around with my two sons in the car.

There's LOTS of plenty slow Chevys and rice burners out there at the strip you can strut your stuff against... and beat. And if you have a time slip to prove it, who is going to be able to lie about being beaten?

Ron.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
ojk ok youre right but hey let me ask you this where do i go to get info on rebuilding my own engine? i dont trust people any more someone took off with my other cougar when i he was supposed t o rebuild my engine so is this a good place to get advice? and technical know how?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
I recommend buying the book titled "Rebuilding the small block Ford" (or something very close to that title, I might be off by a word or two)

Believe it or not your local library would be perhaps the best starting point. Tell the librarian what your're looking for, that's what they are getting paid to do is help you. You'll get good, objective information on what you are trying to do, and then you can make the decisions on what you want to do. I have the big block rebuild book, and its great... good specifications-limitations of wear, etc... what's OK, what's not, you know, the stuff you need to know when you take apart a motor.

There is a lot of knowledge here on this site, but, just like what I've been telling you on this particular thread about gearing, etc... you get my opinion too, and it may not be what you are shooting for with your car. Most guys on this site are gracious enough to not say what they are thinking about a 4.86 gear, which is (GOOD HEAVENS!!!!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,832 Posts
Ron LOL those 4.86's seem like street gears compared to the 6.86's and 7.14's the Franklin quick change used in my late model! Use to twist it up pretty tight sometimes if you know what I mean. Course that was on a big 1/4 mile track too but it was a circle!!!mm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Currie now offers a new "alumi" third member that addresses all the inherent weaknesses in the 8". It is good to about 400 hp. So compared to the initial price to get into a 9", at $330 this is a great alternative.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,141 Posts
My father's 66 Mustang has a 289-4v, Ford "stage 2" cam, 10:1, Holley 650 DP and toploader with 10.5" clutch. It has always had the 8" rear in it, he has 4 units for it depending on his mood - open with 3.00:1, factory posi 4.11:1, factory posi 2.79:1(?) Auburn posi 3.50:1.
I always felt that the 3.50's were the best all around set and so far (he's owned the car since 68) he hasn't had a problem at all with the 8" other than finding factory posi units. Unless you're doing hard launches I would keep the 8.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top