Mercury Cougar Owners banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am happy to know a couple of things after this journey. I did the swap to my 67 cougar standard. I bought the rear from a junkyard for $80. I bought a girdle and new clutches for $280. I did NOT cut the tube. The offset is minimum. It is not bad as some of the stories I read. I bought a driveshaft for it on ebay for $45. It is an aluminum 98 ford explorer driveshaft. I went to measure it, it was almost useable. However, the yoke did not fit. I put new u joints (brute forces), put a ford racing yoke on it, trimmed the yoke 1 inch, cleaned up the end.....fits like a glove! Then I hung my exhaust tonight and there is about a 2-3 inch gap between the muffler and the driveshaft (offset even). Just thought I would share that it isnt that bad and I can answer any questions if you would like. And before somebody says somethng about u-joint pre-mature wear, the offset is MINIMUM. The angles were set perfect and the driveshaft looks like the ones I see at the dealership everyday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,044 Posts
i dont believe the u joints care if the pinon is not on car centerline .the main thing is that the pinion c/l and engine c/l are parallel to each other in both plains.the early ford/dodge vans moved the engine offset at least 4" to the passenger side , without moving the pinon . the exploder rear is a great rear for many cars (kinda ugly from the rear--not good for a highboy roadster ) and try to get all the sway bar stuff also.i had to move the pads on my desoto vert project and currie has pads for that size tube--they also have brand new ford backing plate assys (with all new e brakes , ect ) cheaper than you can get all the parts from napa
doctordesoto
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
just me flapping my jaw, they also fit the K/KB and L R S Internationals! Small modifications.

bye, bye
Lloyd
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
I am going to be doing this soon. I have to order new rear springs and shackles first, and I got a disc brake 8.8 from an Explorer with 4.10's and a LS. Post up some pics of your swap. What did you do for your shock mounts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
200 Posts
I am going to be doing this soon. I have to order new rear springs and shackles first, and I got a disc brake 8.8 from an Explorer with 4.10's and a LS. Post up some pics of your swap. What did you do for your shock mounts?
I just finished putting an explorer 8.8 in mine (albeit with 3.73's). For the shock mounts I used the stockers but tok a carbide bur an elongated the u-bolt holes to accept the 3.25" u-bolts you have to use. I also replaced the perch-shackle bolt (the on that goes through the springs, pads, shackle and perch to align them with grade 8 hardware. I reused the rubber pads but cot off the portions where they extended, welded some grade 8 washers into the original shackle holes and everything worked just fine. I will need to run some spacers because of the offset of the wheels I am running but it will come out fine. Here as some pictures.

These were the original plates I was going to use. I ordered the plates and the tabs from an offroad site and welded the tabs on and painted them, but after testing them out, the shock angle was off. These were the smallest tabs I could find so I changed to modifying the stockers.
Spring_Plates.jpg


Here is the rearend minus the original brackets and after welding on the new perches. It has been painted and I added a girdle. Eventually I will weld up a rear sway bar to connect to it.

Rearend_full_1.jpg

Rear is in, as you can see I need maybe a 1/2" spacer for the wheels.

Rear_in1.jpg

Pic from the opposite side. I just sanded down the springs and resprayed them. Came out prety good I think.

Rear_in3.jpg

Rear_in2.jpg

By the way, to get the correct pinion angle, I used 4 cinder blocks, 2 2' long pieces of 2x4, a nail, a permanent marker and some flat ground. If you would like me to go over it let me know, or you can pay the $100+ dollars for an inclinometer if you want.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
200 Posts
Here are a couple more pics:

Modified original spring plates (practicing my smoothing with bondo, not very good on the upper view picture as you can see, however, no one will ever see that part):

Modded_spring_plate_2.jpg

And here is another view of the rear before it went in:

Rearend_full.jpg
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
I just finished putting an explorer 8.8 in mine (albeit with 3.73's). For the shock mounts I used the stockers but tok a carbide bur an elongated the u-bolt holes to accept the 3.25" u-bolts you have to use. I also replaced the perch-shackle bolt (the on that goes through the springs, pads, shackle and perch to align them with grade 8 hardware. I reused the rubber pads but cot off the portions where they extended, welded some grade 8 washers into the original shackle holes and everything worked just fine. I will need to run some spacers because of the offset of the wheels I am running but it will come out fine. Here as some pictures.

These were the original plates I was going to use. I ordered the plates and the tabs from an offroad site and welded the tabs on and painted them, but after testing them out, the shock angle was off. These were the smallest tabs I could find so I changed to modifying the stockers.
View attachment 25453


Here is the rearend minus the original brackets and after welding on the new perches. It has been painted and I added a girdle. Eventually I will weld up a rear sway bar to connect to it.

View attachment 25454

Rear is in, as you can see I need maybe a 1/2" spacer for the wheels.

View attachment 25449

Pic from the opposite side. I just sanded down the springs and resprayed them. Came out prety good I think.

View attachment 25451

View attachment 25450

By the way, to get the correct pinion angle, I used 4 cinder blocks, 2 2' long pieces of 2x4, a nail, a permanent marker and some flat ground. If you would like me to go over it let me know, or you can pay the $100+ dollars for an inclinometer if you want.

Which wheels are you running? I was just test fitting mine that are the 45mm offset 2008? Bullitt wheels, and was thinking I need about a 1" spacer in front, and 1.25" in rear...??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
200 Posts
I am running the 2003-2004 Mustang GT "Bullitt" wheels. They are 5.72" backspacing. I think I am finally going to settle on 1" spacers in the back with .25" in the front (to clear the bearing cap on the new discs). I still need to lower it down and see, maybe I'll get to it tonight and get some good pictures of what the 5.72" backspacing bullitt's look like with no adaptors.

Be careful with the new Mustang rims as they have even more backspacing (6.295" to be exact). This is what you need to be looking at as Offset is only the centerline measurement and isn't as telling as backspacing. Remember, "Deeper backspacing moves the wheel and tire inboard on the vehicle; shallower moves them outboard." This is why I went with the pre-05' year rims.

94-04 5.72" backspacing
05-current 6.295" backspacing


Here is a good reference site for offset/backspacing (a ranger site) but still good info.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/wheel_fitment.html
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top