Mercury Cougar Owners banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of removing the 351c from my 73, since I have never done this before, I'm following the Engine Removal and Installation process from a 64-73 Mustang/cougar Chilton's repair manual. Everything has been going fine untill step 12. Remove the flyeheel or converter housing upper retaining bolts through the access holes in the floor pan.?? Can anyone explain to me what they are talking about. I assume that if there are access holes in the floor pans they are under the carpet, however I can not find them. Am I way off base here?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,577 Posts
No, THEY are way off base, at least to my knowledge. The uper bellhousing bolts (what I believe they are talking about) have no access holes, they are "get to 'em however you can" bolts.
 

·
Contributing Member
Joined
·
6,137 Posts
Long extensions with universals will most likely be your best bet. Although I've never worked on one so "new." LMAO
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the help. I think I finally figured out what bolts they were talking about. After the starter was removed there were 5 bolts left to take out. I was able to reach 3 from above and 2 from below. Now I need to remove the 4 nuts through the access panel, however it looks like a 2 person job to me. I think I need someone to keep the engine from turning while I break the nuts loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
No, one person can do it. I usually us a socket on a Ratchet. Turn the ratchet until the flexplate turns and the socket will contact the shield which will help you hold the flexplate from rotating. Make sense? Try it, it will!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
I just finished removing and installing my 351 cleveland and FMX auto trans from my 70 cougar about 6 months ago. What you need to do is seperate the torq converter from the engines fly wheel before removing the transmision housing bolts to the engine block. You need to remove the transmission acces cover on the front bottom of the trans, two bolts. This will give you access to the 4 torq converter nuts. Make sure you use a 6 point box end wrench on these nuts. They can strip easily with a larger 12 point wrench. In order to gain access to all four nuts you will have to rotate the crankshaft until you see the nut reacing the bottom of the trans where you can gain access to it. You can rotate the crankshaft with a large socket and with a breaker bar wrench or a ratchet style wrench that is long enough, may need to use a cheater bar slipped over the ratchet. Make sure the trans is in neutral if you have not already removed the drive shaft. It can be done by one person. I did my complete engine/trans removal and install by myself. Remember safety first and have the car properly supported when working under the bottom of the car. Its very important that you use the 6 point box end wrench on the torq converter nuts they can strip very easily with a larger 12 point box end wrench. I hope this helps

Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
dmac: I did, it does!! Thanks for the tip. Is there anything I need to be aware of when I hoist the engine up and away from the Trans?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Make sure you have the trans supported with a hydraulic jack before seperating the block from the trans. The trans crossmember support will not be able to support the full load of the trans onnce you seperate the block from the trans. You can use a square piece of plywood or similar block of wood such as 2x6 or 2x4 piece of wood under the trans pan. Make sure all of the wiring, ground strap, speedometer cable and linkage or free from the trans. It will take a little muscle to seperate and free the dowl pins from the trans. May take some wiggiling of the engine hoist and raising and lowering of the jack under the trans. Once everything is seperated you should be able to raise the engine with the hoist. Be carefull with the raising of the engine with the hoist. The motor may want to shift a bit depending on how its balanced from the lift point. You will have to jack the hoist up a good bit because the weight will be removed from the front end of the car. The car is going to rise once the weight is lifted off of the front suspension.

Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Everyone, the engine is out! Now I'm thinking maybe I should remove the Trans and drive shaft also. I have never done this before either.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top