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Been working on putting this back together after spending a lot of time and effort refurbishing, repairing, painting, etc., etc., etc. You now how it is. Finally feel like I'm making a little progress. PLEASE NOTE: No need to point out all of the historical inaccuracies in my project. This is NOT a concours restoration. I'm eventually turning it into an Eliminator clone and am doing things so that they are functional and look reasonably good - to me.

The grill was polished and black, pretty pitted, center piece was broken badly. I fixed center, smoothed fins with dremel and painted the whole thing satin black. Also made new background piece for cougar emblem and painted the red mercury emblem in the center:


Engine compartment is almost done. 351 with aftermarket Edelbrock manifold and Holley 4v carb:


Interior was all white and not in very good shape. I decided to change it to a black interior. These are the original panels that I restored. The only new parts are the black window crank handles:


Original dash top was in pretty good shape, gauge pod, center stack of dash was not. Prepped and painted dash, refurbished everything. Console looked bad. Completely disassembled, patched, painted, reinforced. Everything on dash and console is original except wood grain insert on console:
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Got the trunk finished last night. Made side panels out of masonite, covered with speckled trunk floor cover. Covered the taillight covers with fake black leather:


After pricing new and used steering wheels, rim blow horn ring, etc., I decided not to cash in my IRA and refurbished it instead. Looks almost as good as new, except the horn only works in 2 spots around the wheel:


After starting prep work to dye and paint seats from white to black, I decided to be real different and leave the seats and headliner white. I think they are going to look pretty cool in an otherwise all black interior. Buckets and bench cleaned up nicely. Took a LOT of elbow grease but turned out better than I expected:




That's about it for now. Still need to tackle the new black vinyl roof, new black carpeting, and reassemble the entire interior. Can't wait!
 

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I like it, your hard work shows in the details.
 

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looks good...i like the all black grille.....
 

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Original dash top was in pretty good shape, gauge pod, center stack of dash was not. Prepped and painted dash, refurbished everything. Console looked bad. Completely disassembled, patched, painted, reinforced. Everything on dash and console is original except wood grain insert on console:

You mentioned your dash pad was in good shape. Did you have to patch anything on that? Any cracks? Just wondering since my dash pad is cracked in two different
spots. You can see how great it is looking. Can't wait to see it completed... Gives the rest of us something to shoot for.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
You mentioned your dash pad was in good shape. Did you have to patch anything on that? Any cracks? Just wondering since my dash pad is cracked in two different
spots. You can see how great it is looking. Can't wait to see it completed... Gives the rest of us something to shoot for.[/QUOTE]

The dash pad had a couple of small cracks and a dented-in spot. Don't laugh, but I used JB Weld to fill them in. I had to massage it into place almost perfectly before it began to set up because you can't sand it later without ruining the dash area around it. While it was still tacky, I lightly pressed some wrinkled plastic wrap onto it to give it a leathery look like the rest of the dash. After painting it satin black, you can't see these spots unless I point them out. If you try this, practice with the JB Weld on something else first to get the hang of it. Once it starts to set up on your dash, there is no going back!

Jeff
 

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Do you have any before pics? How big were the cracks? I have two cracks maybe 1/4 in wide.. Was trying to figure some way to repair rather than replace. At least on my budget.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry, no "before" pics of dash. Cracks in my dash were very small and not completely thru the pad. I first reinforced the bottom of the pad by epoxying small strips of aluminum to the pad in a couple places so it wouldn't separate any further, then filled the small cracks. If you have 1/4" wide cracks, they may be all the way thru the pad. If that's the case, I don't know what to tell you.

I guess your course of action all depends on how good you want it to look. I bet someone else out there on this forum has dealt with that before. If I were you, I'd create a new thread and ask for suggestions. Good luck!

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here are a few more progress pics. Got the replica rear spoiler mounted:



The hood is drilled, scoop is primed and sanded, just needs finish paint and final fitting:



The interior is looking pretty cool with the cream color seats against the black sides and carpet. Sorry for the darkness, but I couldn't wait to take pics once I got the seats in:





In another post, I asked about how to keep the trunk open with the added weight of the spoiler. A prop was recommended, so I made this one and its holder out of some scrap aluminum. The rubber tip is held in the holder by the trunk lid when the trunk is closed. When open, the tip is cupped to go around a rubber tip I glued to the underside of the lid:





Hope to get the dash and electricals reinstalled this weekend. Not sure if the hood scoop will be finished then, but soon.

Again, no need to remind me about historical inaccuracies. It is what it is and I'm having a ball doing it! Thanks for all the help along the way!

Jeff
 

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Nice car!!!! You doing a very good job!!!!
 

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Nice Work!! About the prop rod for the trunk lid... you don't need it. Just adjust the torsion bars on the hinges to compensate for the extra weight
of the spoiler.

from the factory the torsion rods are usually placed in the first notch of the hinge.

use a large screwdriver for leverage.

and another screwdriver to flex the notched plate out a little bit until you move the rod to the next slot.

I did this to a friends Eliminator when I saw he was using a prop rod. We set the torsion rod to the third notch on one side of the car
and the second notch on the opposite side. That gave the perfect amount of spring rate to gently raise the trunk lid up and keep it up
without the use of a prop rod.
 

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Nice Work!!
About the prop rod... you don't need it. You just have to adjust the torsion rods at the trunk hinges.
The part of the hinge that the torsion rods are setting in has three slots. From the factory they are usually placed in the first slot on each hinge.
If you take a couple of long screwdrivers using one to pry the torsion rod towards the next slot and the other screwdriver to gently flex the
hinge slots away from the rod end you can move the torsion rod to the second or third slot. This will increase the spring rate of the bars and allow the hinges to hold up the trunk with the increased weight of the spoiler. I did this to my friends Eliminator when I saw he was using a prop
rod. We moved the torsion rods to the third slot on one side and second slot on the other side, and know his trunk opens perfectly and stays up without the use of a prop rod.
I tried to post pics to show how I did it, but because I'm a new member it wouldn't let me. Hope this helpls!
 

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Nice Work!!
About the prop rod... you don't need it. You just have to adjust the torsion rods at the trunk hinges.
The part of the hinge that the torsion rods are setting in has three slots. From the factory they are usually placed in the first slot on each hinge.
If you take a couple of long screwdrivers using one to pry the torsion rod towards the next slot and the other screwdriver to gently flex the
hinge slots away from the rod end you can move the torsion rod to the second or third slot. This will increase the spring rate of the bars and allow the hinges to hold up the trunk with the increased weight of the spoiler. I did this to my friends Eliminator when I saw he was using a prop
rod. We moved the torsion rods to the third slot on one side and second slot on the other side, and know his trunk opens perfectly and stays up without the use of a prop rod.
I tried to post pics to show how I did it, but because I'm a new member it wouldn't let me. Hope this helpls!
This worked for me, for about a day! Most/all find that the rods will not hold up a spoiler, repro or original. This (IMO) is the way to do it:



Regards,

Bob
 

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Nice Work!!
About the prop rod... you don't need it. You just have to adjust the torsion rods at the trunk hinges.
The part of the hinge that the torsion rods are setting in has three slots. From the factory they are usually placed in the first slot on each hinge.
If you take a couple of long screwdrivers using one to pry the torsion rod towards the next slot and the other screwdriver to gently flex the
hinge slots away from the rod end you can move the torsion rod to the second or third slot. This will increase the spring rate of the bars and allow the hinges to hold up the trunk with the increased weight of the spoiler. I did this to my friends Eliminator when I saw he was using a prop
rod. We moved the torsion rods to the third slot on one side and second slot on the other side, and know his trunk opens perfectly and stays up without the use of a prop rod.
I tried to post pics to show how I did it, but because I'm a new member it wouldn't let me. Hope this helpls!
You should be able to post pictures if you use a link. If you have your pictures on a site like Photobucket.com take the image code from the picture you want, click on it and it will save the picture. Then right click here and presto, picture linked.

As for using a screw driver, I have used a small diameter pipe and slide it over the part of the rod sticking out and adjusted the rod that way. This was on a 71 that had a bit of rod sticking out, so not sure if it would work on other models.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nice Work!!
About the prop rod... you don't need it. You just have to adjust the torsion rods at the trunk hinges.
The part of the hinge that the torsion rods are setting in has three slots. From the factory they are usually placed in the first slot on each hinge.
If you take a couple of long screwdrivers using one to pry the torsion rod towards the next slot and the other screwdriver to gently flex the
hinge slots away from the rod end you can move the torsion rod to the second or third slot. This will increase the spring rate of the bars and allow the hinges to hold up the trunk with the increased weight of the spoiler. I did this to my friends Eliminator when I saw he was using a prop
rod. We moved the torsion rods to the third slot on one side and second slot on the other side, and know his trunk opens perfectly and stays up without the use of a prop rod.
I tried to post pics to show how I did it, but because I'm a new member it wouldn't let me. Hope this helpls!
Great. I tried to adjust the tension this way, but did not have the same results. The rod slipped and shot out of the slots on both ends, knocking the other rod out of its slots. :uhoh:
Now both tension rods are just laying on the floor of my trunk. I tried to put them back in, but haven't figured out how to do that while putting about a half-turn tension on them. How can I do this without hurting the car or myself???? :confused:
 

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WCCC sells a tool, I was able to do the job without a special tool. No argument here, it is a finesse operation and what happened to you is not hard to have happen, unfortunately. Wish I had a magic bullet for you but this operation can be a little tough/nerve wracking. Maybe someone else has recommendations for you.

Edit: Here is the WCC tool page which also has a link to a video, maybe that will help you. http://www.cougarpartscatalog.com/67trunkhingetool.html

Sorry to say (and have said before) that adjusting the rods even to their highest tension is not going to do the job anyway.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #17
WCCC sells a tool, I was able to do the job without a special tool. No argument here, it is a finesse operation and what happened to you is not hard to have happen, unfortunately. Wish I had a magic bullet for you but this operation can be a little tough/nerve wracking. Maybe someone else has recommendations for you.

Edit: Here is the WCC tool page which also has a link to a video, maybe that will help you. http://www.cougarpartscatalog.com/67trunkhingetool.html

Sorry to say (and have said before) that adjusting the rods even to their highest tension is not going to do the job anyway.

Regards,

Bob
Thanks Bob. The tool sold by WCC was a lifesaver! I didn't buy one, I made one from a scrap piece of steel! It also became MUCH easier after removing the trunk lid. It still wasn't an easy task, but I got them both back on - without a trip to the emergency room. You were also right about them still not being quite enough to hold the trunk/spolier up. I bought a 75 pound piston, installed it similar to yours and it works beautifully. Thanks again.
 

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Thanks Bob. The tool sold by WCC was a lifesaver! I didn't buy one, I made one from a scrap piece of steel! It also became MUCH easier after removing the trunk lid. It still wasn't an easy task, but I got them both back on - without a trip to the emergency room. You were also right about them still not being quite enough to hold the trunk/spolier up. I bought a 75 pound piston, installed it similar to yours and it works beautifully. Thanks again.
My pleasure buddy! Nothing like the pride from a job well done! :beer:
 
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