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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, I have an H-code and I just want to get it at 300hp. Right now it has a 4v performer intake, a 4v holley carb (I'm pretty sure its a 600), and flowmasters. I'm new to this engine deal so what do you think the hp is at now? It runs good. What do I need to do to get it at 300? Thanks
 

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AFAIK, the manifold and carb (and exhaust diameter)was the only difference between the H code and the W. And the stock hp of the 4v was 300hp. So you are probably there already...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
AFAIK, the manifold and carb (and exhaust diameter)was the only difference between the H code and the W. And the stock hp of the 4v was 300hp. So you are probably there already...
I'm not sure if that's a mistake for the chart, but shouldn't it be a "M" code?
 

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And the camshaft of course. Bump it, add headers and a good tune and you should be there (flywheel HP)
 

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without adding much more, there are things you can do to free up engine drag which will reduce your hp rating in essence, "gain" some back.

disconnecting any non-essential systems that either do not work, or you can live without to gain hp, A/C, PS, fan clutch, etc. You can go with an electric fan to get proper cooling. If this is for the track then you may be able to live without these items and gain something.

Of course, proper wires, distrib, plugs, airflow, timing, are are critical to engine performance, there may be some lurking in there right now.


The engine is an air pump, larger carb, more fuel, headers, cam, exh system, lightweight parts like flywheel, heads, and other system parts can make a huge diff on how the engine responds.

To get the rear wheel to hook up better, go with solid u bolts and leaf spring plates from a Mustang to minimize flex of the rear susp. The Cougar uses rubber pads inside the plates and it squishes back and forth slightly under load preventing rear end hook up as solid as it could be.

J
 

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Discussion Starter #7
without adding much more, there are things you can do to free up engine drag which will reduce your hp rating in essence, "gain" some back.

disconnecting any non-essential systems that either do not work, or you can live without to gain hp, A/C, PS, fan clutch, etc. You can go with an electric fan to get proper cooling. If this is for the track then you may be able to live without these items and gain something.

Of course, proper wires, distrib, plugs, airflow, timing, are are critical to engine performance, there may be some lurking in there right now.


The engine is an air pump, larger carb, more fuel, headers, cam, exh system, lightweight parts like flywheel, heads, and other system parts can make a huge diff on how the engine responds.

To get the rear wheel to hook up better, go with solid u bolts and leaf spring plates from a Mustang to minimize flex of the rear susp. The Cougar uses rubber pads inside the plates and it squishes back and forth slightly under load preventing rear end hook up as solid as it could be.

J
The car originally came without A/C so thats a +1 lol. I wasn't planning to take it to the track, I just wanted to have it a little modified. I was planning on getting new headers and new exhaust. You also said a larger carb, how much cfm should it be for a 351?
 

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If you have a stock intake that should handle 600-650cfm with little problem. If you go with a modified intake like and Edelbrock, etc that can handle more volume, you can pump up to a 750cfm but that is about all it can take based on the law of diminishing returns.

If you were to go with an overbore cyl set up, increased stroke, rowdy cam to maximize dwell and fill time when pistons are at intake and power stroke, you would have a beast!

I have hooker headers, rowdy cam, 750cfm, aluminum heads, and a Mallory updated electronic ign and it runs silly but I still do not have it dialed in right yet. It still pops and sounds lean off idle and I get a knock every so often under load so I am going to look at my timing and octane requirements and get it sorted.

ps- if that is your car in your pic, that is a nice ride, best of luck and lmk if you need help tuning it or whatever.
 

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600 cfm is plenty - more is not better and is detrimental actually. (At least until you have a cam profile that requires it.) If you plugs look like it's burning pretty good, and you happy with the way it runs you are in great shape. Efficiency is what you shoot for....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you have a stock intake that should handle 600-650cfm with little problem. If you go with a modified intake like and Edelbrock, etc that can handle more volume, you can pump up to a 750cfm but that is about all it can take based on the law of diminishing returns.

If you were to go with an overbore cyl set up, increased stroke, rowdy cam to maximize dwell and fill time when pistons are at intake and power stroke, you would have a beast!

I have hooker headers, rowdy cam, 750cfm, aluminum heads, and a Mallory updated electronic ign and it runs silly but I still do not have it dialed in right yet. It still pops and sounds lean off idle and I get a knock every so often under load so I am going to look at my timing and octane requirements and get it sorted.

ps- if that is your car in your pic, that is a nice ride, best of luck and lmk if you need help tuning it or whatever.
Yeah, the intake is a Edelbrock performer, but I'm not planning to do major modifications, just enough for 300hp.

And thanks :) , it sure still needs a lot of exterior work though.

600 cfm is plenty - more is not better and is detrimental actually. (At least until you have a cam profile that requires it.) If you plugs look like it's burning pretty good, and you happy with the way it runs you are in great shape. Efficiency is what you shoot for....
What do you mean by efficiency? It runs pretty good, but it still needs a few things.
 

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Efficiency is how well the fuel is used/burned. An easy check is to look at your plugs and then compare that to one of those plug charts. You are looking for a whiteish/reddish tint rather than black mostly...a decent indicator of lean or rich.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Efficiency is how well the fuel is used/burned. An easy check is to look at your plugs and then compare that to one of those plug charts. You are looking for a whiteish/reddish tint rather than black mostly...a decent indicator of lean or rich.
I'll check them once I get a chance, I think the previous owner replaced some things so they should be good. So, if everything is running good and the plugs are fine do you think the hp is similar to the M code?
 

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Yeah, probably within a gnats fart of 300 I bet.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Yeah, probably within a gnats fart of 300 I bet.
Now I'm just wondering, would that be quick at all? I'm not sure what the torque would be, because I know that would have to do more with acceleration. I've read some posts and people say the h-code's are pretty fast, but I was just curious on if it would be more now because of the mods.
 
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