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Re: '69 Eliminator Project Update

Very cool, especialy with pic's! I like the rebuild threads even though i'm not rebuilding sometime I pick up a comment or suggestion that I can use in my general maintenance:smoke:
 

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Re: '69 Eliminator Project Update w/Photos

Eric, Awesome progress! Looking good. The daughter doesn't appear to have any grease stains or dirty hands....just sayin'!:1poke:

Keep 'em coming - great to see it happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Re: '69 Eliminator Project Update w/Photos

Trust me, we've gone through a few set of clothes working on the car. The spindles turned out nice, as well as any other sub assembly we've been working on. I finished the steering column and got a rebuild kit from Don (WCC) for the rag joint. I'm working my way up the steering system and will rebuild it on the car through the steering box. I'm going to hold off on installing the column and rag joint to limit the possibility of any over spray when the body work is done.

I also received the correct shackle bushings this afternoon. That means "Game On" for reinstalling the rear end. Rear shocks were also ordered today and that knocks out the last bit of the suspension. My next step will be the steering wheel restoration. I'm having to chip out the old rim blow switch as it is as hard as a rock. I'm well over half way through ... but it aint alot of fun. I also found the chrome tape for the outside perimeter and will use a clay type epoxy made for steering wheel repair to address a couple of cracks. Then it will be painting and clear lacquer after that. What's next may be the interior HV/AC boxes.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Project Update - '69 Father/Daughter Eliminator

Success!
Over the past week or so Jenny and I have made alot of progress on our full rotisserie rebuild. She has been tied up in school with tests and soccer games. So between games I spent pulled and restored all of her pedal assemblies. I total stripped, cleaned, repainted, and installed new pads and trim rings on all of her pedals and hangers.

I had to learn the hard way that there are differences between the manual drum brake pedal and the power disc brake pedal and hanger. Good news is I had both and now I have a great looking manual pedal that I'll sell at the end of my project. I also had a stripped accelerator pedal screw ... so with some help from Don at WCCC ... I was able to finish all of them off and install them in the car.

One thing I have also learned is that the fresh air vents need to be installed prior to the parking brake assembly. So although I installed the parking brake ... it is just temporary. I want to get new screws for the fresh air vents, and then I'll reinstall the assembly and the new parking brake cable. I have to admit, I may have to send Don a thank you for the photos he has on his site. As we acquired a disassembled rolling shell, his site does help those of us who are re-building on the blind. We are also installing new fresh air vent seals, and that too is cool.

Next, I finished install the hood pins, lanyards and hood silencers to the radiator core support. I love working with new clean (or restored) parts and having a new support is working great.

Finally, I finally got the rear leaf springs re-installed. After getting the right bushings for the rear shackles and new bolts for the front of the spring ... I got them installed without issue. Today ... my brother is going to go with me to the shop and we're going to install the rebuilt 3.00 rear end. Alot of work went into that assembly with all new cables, shoes & brake hardware, grease seals, repainting etc. Once that is done, I can install the rear wheels and we'll have a rolling chassis.

The body shop has also rehung the doors and aligned them. Although they will come off again to be painted off the car ... it is nice to see them there. Also, I just so happened to see the video of rebuilding door hinges while this is being done. So what the heck ... I now have new bushings and pins to install when the doors come off for paint. Another good idea Don!

Once the rear end goes in, Jenny and I will likely install new rear shocks. That will complete everything associated with the suspension. I will also install our rebuilt steering gear. Although I could also put on the pwr steering control valve ... I might be tryin' to bite off more than I can chew for one afternoon.

I think my next steps will include the following:
- finish installing the fresh air vents with new hardware and R&R the parking brake assembly
- install the parking brake cable and make all the connections to getting the parking brake assembly functional
- install the pwr steering control valve
- purchase and install the pwr steering ram
- rebuild the rag joint
- install rebuilt steering column
- finish steering wheel & pad restoration
- finish greasing the front suspension
- rebuild door hinges
- Start painting the "blackened grill"
- Paint the rechromed tail light bezels and rebuild those assemblies
- rebuild and repaint the front turn indicators

Parts that are awaiting install also continue to be purchased, rechromed, cleaned, polished or painted. Some of these include the bumpers, console, head liner, firewall pad, carpet underlayment, carpet, HV/AC assemblies, etc ...

In short, we're no longer tearing it down ... we're starting to put it together.

Finally ... my apologies to the Lone Star Cougar club. I was looking forward to meeting them at their recent meeting in Irving. However, I ended up catching a nasty cold and decided I did not want to share that wealth. I'd look forward to hooking up with you in the near future.
 

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Re: Project Update - '69 Father/Daughter Eliminator

Glad you are having great success with your 69. The putting together part starts to show your rewards and as you describe more fun!

The Feb. meeting will be unofficially at Autorama, Market Hall as we are working the show. The 17th we gather to direct all vehicles to their spots including our six car display. This is a great time to see some fantastic vehicles in motion. Then a few of us are conducting the burnout contest Sat-Sun. March meeting back to normal.
Ken
LSCC Prez
 

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Re: Project Update - '69 Father/Daughter Eliminator

Nice to hear about the father daughter project. I have one going now that is 20 years late but getting there none the less. I bought my daughter a project Mustang many years ago and told her if she would help ,I would get it going and looking good for her by her senior year of high school. But she lost interest and the project never got off the ground. But this past year we started into what I had bought as a parts car that turned out to be too good to trash. Bonus is I got a son in law to help in the mix too! We are progressing and I think they are going to post some progress and build pictures in the gallery some time. Hope to see some pics of your project.
 

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Re: Project Update - '69 Father/Daughter Eliminator

I read this in your quote!
The body shop has also rehung the doors and aligned them. Although they will come off again to be painted off the car ... it is nice to see them there. Also, I just so happened to see the video of rebuilding door hinges while this is being done. So what the heck ... I now have new bushings and pins to install when the doors come off for paint. Another good idea Do

New pins and bushings are a good idea, but you may want to check the door fit again before paint after you do this!
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Just a short post regarding some of our progress.
- rear-end & shocks have been installed
- ran into an issue on the R rear brake line. It wants to align with the wheel cylinder port pointing forward. Had to purchase another driver's side wheel cylinder to make it work. It goes on today.
- Finishing the vacum cannister that drivers the headlight doors today. First coat of paint is done. Second coat going on this afternoon.
- Scored a spare argent wheel last night on ebay. Once it arrives, is blasted, repainted and has a matching tire installed ... I'll feel that I can "pack" the trunk


Today will be a catchup day to address alot of minor things we've left hanging. Grease the chassis, put on the rear shock grommets, install fresh air vents and screw them down, connect all the parking brake cables, install the firewall pad, etc.

I am starting to plan the next step which will be the wiring harnesses. I'll inspect them for frays, cuts, etc ... but don't know how to test ... other than when we are done. Any thoughts about pretesting would be appreciated.

Our latest pictures are at http://s1181.photobucket.com/albums/x431/mzqj6r/
 

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You have come a long way my friend, and it's good to see your daughter is hanging in there. I also have a Orange 69 Elim. with white int.
 

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Really wonderful to see :)
 

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:mad:
Can't get to ANY photo bucket pictures here at work.
 

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It looks good an good to see younger people interested in these old cars instead of these new ones for a change.
 

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Can get to photo bucket off duty, car is coming along nicely!
 

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Hrm... Well, I've never tested an entire wiring harness specifically. But I would think that if you have a diagram you should be able to figure out which pins to go where and then check resistance in each wire end-to-end, as well as wire-to-wire.

Given what you've accomplished so far, I'm guessing you already know alot of this, but since you asked...

Checking end-to-end (meaning resistance of the length of an individual wire) would tell you if there are breaks or other wire damage. You have to know which pin in a connector goes to which other pin at the other end of the wire so you can connect your volt-meter to each end and read the resistance (ohms). Each wire should be close to zero - probably just a hanful of ohms, depending on how long the wire is (unless there are resistors in-line).

Checking from wire-to-wire (resistance between each pin in each connector) would tell you if there is a short from one wire to another. Ideally, this would be done with a Meg-Ohm-Meter ("Megger"), which puts potential between 2 wires and shows the resistance between them - indicating "health" of the insulation.

Hope that helps some,
 

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Yes sir, I'd just ohm it all out and check it through wiggle the harness at stress points to be sure nothings broken/bad connection, etc. Time consuming, but well worththe effort. You could also make yourself a little test jumper if you wanted to test voltage through it and see if it lights up a probe on the other end - I used to check boat wiring with a motorcyle battery, and a few long jumpers - one end with an alligator clip, and the other with a spade terminal that will slide into most connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Thanks for the wiring suggestion guys. I was planning on checking continuity where it could be tested ... but I must admit ... I am sure glad I labled every stinkin' lead on the harness before I disconnected it and removed it. The photos and wiring diagrams should help too.

As for Saturday, our wish list got cut short by wife requests ... at least we swapped out a wheel cylinder so all the brake lines on the rear-end lined up. We reassembled the affected drum and put on the three rear brake lines. Next, I mounted the flex rear brake line to the chassis and clipped it in place. We still got alot of loose ends before we start on the harnesses.

But, I did work on the headlight vacum cannister. It is repainted and bolted into the hood-latch frame. If anyone had some good pictures as to how the grill should be reassembled, I am working in the blind here. Many thanks in advance.
 

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I think your brake wheel cylinder/brake line challenge had to do with a change made for the 1970 rear brakes. They went to using the same wheel cylinder on both sides. You may have gotten a set of lines for the 70 config. I had this problem many years back rebuilding rear brakes on a 69 I had.

Edit, It's nice to see your daughter is interested in this kind of hobbies. Seams most are in to the latest altered reality TV show.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
How Tight?? '69 Eliminator Update

Finally got my rag joint apart and started to bolt it together. Everything was going fine until I started to tighten the bolts to the bottom of the steering column. I had but washers next to the bolt head ... but then when I tightened the nuts, the washers cut right through the rubber rag joint. I have a poly version and will retry ... but as there is no spec for this in the manual ... how tight is tight enough???
 
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