[Calbert Corpse]

Hi All,

1/2 way through changing out my brake distribution block/proportioning valve. (Getting the booster out of the way was not fun).

Just put in the block. Since it will be filled with air and I will be re-bleeding all four corners, do I even need to bother filling the master and bleeding it before putting it on? Just trying to save time/aggravation if I don't need to.

Incidentally, the nuts holding the booster on fought me coming off the whole way, with me upside down under the dash. They were "tight" and required a ton of ratchet torque in a confined space. What is the best lubricating trick I can do to the studs and nuts to get them to spin on easier? My fingers still hurt from all the force I needed in there... my dad used to rub a dry soap bar on the studs...

Thanks!!

Calbert

 

[69eliminator]

Yes, you should bench-bleed to MC.

And use vaseline to lube the studs/nuts.

 

[Royce Peterson]

The nuts on the brake booster are self locking nuts, which are supposed to resist being turned. The easy way to install or remove them is with about 24" of extensions. You need a 3/8" drive 9/16" six point "tweener" socket, IE not deep and not standard, along with a universal joint due to the angle needed.

 

[Calbert Corpse]

Thank you both! I used a deep socket due to the length of the shaft. Maybe my "deep" is your "tweener."