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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone- I really hope someone can help me!
I have a 68 XR-7 w/ factory p/s:
  • I changed to a 89 mustang serpentine belt setup but modified the mustang p/s bracket so i can use my 68 style pump.
  • The hoses hit the headers so I bought the kit from WestCoast classic that routes them under the car- looks great.
  • After the car warms up, the fluid gushes out of the dipstick tube- killed two pumps while driving and the third pump just did the same in my driveway. I am using the proper type F and the control valve and cylinder were replaced 4 years ago (hardly drive the car though)
Can you think of anything that may cause it except maybe a group of bad rebuilt pumps? I am not sure if the pulleys are different diameters but I am using the one from the 89 ford.
I also replaced my steering box a few years back and now it seems to make sharper right turns than left...

Thanks in advance to all! -Jim Fort Lauderdale, FL
 

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Sounds like your not really pumping any fluid through the system for some reason?? Does it growl - or how easy does it turn when idling?...
 

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Makes me wonder if it may be spinning too fast. Is the pulley the same size as stock, or smaller? My steering acts the same, tighter to the right than the left, after changeing the box.
 

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That's another thought - how much diff is there in the driven pulleys afterwards...? Maybe it's just cavitating inside the pump
 

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I think Redcougar is on to something. Your pump is likely spinning the wrong direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I wish I had the original pulley to compare. The power steering works- and does growl so I have been purging it (steering left to right w/o the dip stick in to watch the level). After driving it for a while it starts growling louder like it is losing fluid and then shortly after it starts coming out of the dip stick hole.
The serpentine setup has the p/s in the original direction- only the water pump changed. I wonder if I crossed the two new hoses going from the pump to the control valve- I will have to look it up.
I jacked the car up last night and took off the fron driver's tire to see if anything was hitting lines but everything seems to clear- one line is extremely close to the arm connected to the steering box!

As for the turning radius- I will count the steering wheel turns left and right. The car makes much sharper right turns than left--I thought the steering box was indexed so it would only go on one way. I cannot make a u-turn in my development!

Thanks for your input thus far- maybe it is just another bad pump...what are the symptoms of a bad control valve and/or cylinder?
 

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I don't think you can cross the lines between the pump and control valve. The fittings are different sizes at the valve if memory serves.
 

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I wonder if this would help do a stare and compare on pulley RPM's: http://www.csgnetwork.com/pulleybeltcalc.html
Anybody got one of those rpm guns to check a stock one at idle...? I'm curious now Wish my carb wasn't torn appart.

How about checking for fluid flow at various points - maybe back of the nut a turn or 2 to see if it leaks some.....there is a bunch of pressure so be cautious if you go there!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will pop the lines one at a time and see if fluid is pumping...checked the number of turns on the steering wheel and it goes 1-3/4 each way- Strange the right direction turns sharper than the left.
Both lines going to the control valve have a 1/2" hex but I think the lines have slightly different diameters- I also do not see how I could have routed the hoses if I had them interchanged.

Thanks for your input/ideas thus far...maybe I should get my $ back from advance auto- the 3 pumps all came with a plastic reservoir and my original core had a metal one! I can buy one with the metal reservoir from MU or somewhere like that.
 
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