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Discussion Starter #1
I want to replace my cam w/o removing the engine.
A valve lifter tool saves me from removing the Intake
I can remove the center of the grill but I have AC
Any one know if the condenser can be turned out of the way.
I could discharge the system but hate to disconnect the hoses.
Thanks
 

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No - you should be able to lay everyting out of the way when you yank the cam.....just be damn sure you don't drop any valves in the process...use wrap wires etc....to keep things in place. Being careful will pay off! Goodluck and keep us posted.
 

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Am I missing something here? You want to change out your camshaft which I just did recently on my 68. If you are putting in a new camshaft you do need to put in new lifters. Exactly how would you do that if you don't take the intake off?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Am I missing something here? You want to change out your camshaft which I just did recently on my 68. If you are putting in a new camshaft you do need to put in new lifters. Exactly how would you do that if you don't take the intake off?
!968 Shop Manual 8-110 390 and 427 V-8 shows using a claw-type tool
Wouldn't it work on a 302?
 

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You need to remove the intake. It's about a 10 minute job.

The A/C condenser needs to be removed. This means that you need to remove the refrigerant obviously.

The sooner you get started the sooner you will be finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
You need to remove the intake. It's about a 10 minute job.

The A/C condenser needs to be removed. This means that you need to remove the refrigerant obviously.

The sooner you get started the sooner you will be finished.
I thought maybe the tool would work,it's easy for the gasket to slip and cause an oil leak.
Plus get this:
1968 Shop Manual camshaft removal 390/427 V8
"On a vehicle with air conditioning , remove the condenser retaining bolts,
and position the condenser to one side. Do not disconnect the condenser
refrigerant lines."

:flamer:FORD
service publications

Love to see them
 

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How old are the A/C lines running to your condenser? I have found they tend to leak if you move an old A/C hose too much. I would evacuate the system and remove the condenser to give you more room. You should also pull the intake and replace the lifters along with the cam. Otherwise you are asking for trouble. It's a pain to replace a cam with the engine in the car, so give youself as much space as you can.
 

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I've replaced the cam (68 302) without disconnecting the condensor. It's tight but it can be done. IIRC the center hood support has to come out.
Always replace the lifters when you replace the camshaft.
 

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By the way what kind of cam are you using as a replacement? Stock specs like you have now? Or are you going with a more performance oriented cam with higher lift? Higher lift, push in studs and lighter springs equal trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
By the way what kind of cam are you using as a replacement? Stock specs like you have now? Or are you going with a more performance oriented cam with higher lift? Higher lift, push in studs and lighter springs equal trouble.
I was having trouble with low vacuum and I thought maybe I had the wrong
cam installed. (Com 31-218-3) I email Comp cams and they told me there
was no such number even tho my receipt showed it.

So I read their Com 31-218-2 had no vacuum problems,and decided maybe
that's what I had in it. I even thought it might be a 351W until I checked
the wiring. I had a lose of power brake because of low vac so now I think
I'll retest for vac leaks. I had installed a Crane Reserve system to solve the low vac. Back to the drawing board for now.
 

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i have use that tool many times and it works for pulling lifters, but, the lifters will not fit through the holes in most heads head (push rod holes).

vacuum issue: where is your vac. line for the booster hooked up? THAT MATTERS, it needs to be the back of the carb, not the spacer, not the front of the carb, not the intake rear open port, only on the back of the carb. also, check your booster, the leather diaphram inside can leak and cause a harder then normal pedal because its losing pressure. if your pedal is hard when the car is running you have a vacuum or booster issue, if its not hard then its not that.
 

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vacuum issue: where is your vac. line for the booster hooked up? THAT MATTERS, it needs to be the back of the carb, not the spacer, not the front of the carb, not the intake rear open port, only on the back of the carb
Originally the vacuum line to the booster is connected to the vacuum tree on the rear of the intake, and i have had no problem with my brakes with the booster vacuum hooked up like this
 

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What type of intake do you have on the car ? a single plane produces less vacuum than a dual plane intake, also if you have automatic transmission, check the vacuum hose to the transmission for leaks as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What type of intake do you have on the car ? a single plane produces less vacuum than a dual plane intake, also if you have automatic transmission, check the vacuum hose to the transmission for leaks as well.
I had no problems until I replaced with same engine built and a mild street cam.
I took vacuum readings with all lines disconnected including transmission.
Stock manifold,what is a single plane? Thanks
 

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Mild street cam? Do you have a spec sheet on this cam? What is the vacuum reading at idle? What is the idle speed being used? What do you have your timing set at?
 

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Well their web site does list a 31-218-2. Read the specs. I would have gone with the 31-216-2 especially since you are using a stock manifold and probably have 3.00 gears in your car. Plus the power band of the 31-218-2 is a bit on the high side for a street driven car. Been there, done that. My Crane Fireball was pretty much like that only maybe a tad more radical. Get the car to 30mph in 1st and 55mph in 2nd and she would scream. Driving around town and getting off the line at a simple street light was slow going. Needed to run my timing at 15 degrees for a semi decent idle and semi decent brakes. The car pretty much had no brakes with less than 12 degrees initial. Put up with it for 35 years. Yeah didn't drive her that much and when I did it was only freeway. Called Isky and had them make me a cam and we are both happier.
http://www.compcams.com/(X(1)S(iqnp...mpany/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=792&sb=2
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Mild street cam? Do you have a spec sheet on this cam? What is the vacuum reading at idle? What is the idle speed being used? What do you have your timing set at?
I'm not sure of the cam number store that installed is out of business and my receipt
number is wrong,I guess a com 31-218-2 (receipt said 31-218-3)typing error?
Vacuum was 13½-14" at idle about 550-600 in park 6*degrees I think, I set back in 1998
hard and dangerous power brake pedal--until I installed a Crane Reserve System Tank

After all the Info here I reset my timing to 21 degrees BTC("F" low compression engine)
road test under heavy load and advanced then recheck my timing read 21*degrees
no pinging during road test, now idles smooth, starts easy, vacuum reads 16½
So I guess if the distributor is set 10L( 20*) I have not looked at it, plus 21* initial timing for a total of 41 degrees I'm Ok? 38-42 total specs?
 
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