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Discussion Starter #1
My power steering pump, which had just been replaced 3 months ago, went out on me on the way to the mustang plus car show"big drag". I picked up another and droped it in today, it took about an hr. Here is the situation, the power steering hoses are all new, the power steering pump is new, and the ram was changed out some years ago but does not leak and works fine.
I put everything together and went for a quick test drive. Now, when I turn the wheel to the left it seems smooth, but when I turn to the right I hear a grind or humming sound and the wheel is stiff, as if I don't have power steering. I have not changed out the control valve and It might be original. I have greased it well but ever since I put the drop bracket in for the headers and had the steering alligned, the steering seems to have lost some of its power, and does't seem to turn all the way to the right and left, I lost some turning radius.
I purchased a new control valve from kragen auto, $178.00 + core $40.00 it will be at the store in 5 days.
Does this seem like the problem? Has anybody been through this before? Am I on the right track ?

Thanks for the info

PB
 

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Sorry, I can't address it specifically. Did you try and search through here, and see who else has had power steering issues that were similar? My first thought is fluid level,.....
 

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It sounds like your problem might be in the rebuilt pump, because you say it wasn't doing this before the install. The header drop bracket will cause a loss of turn distance because you moved it down about 3in. which shortened throw a little each way.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The loss of steering with the drop bracket sounds right. do you think the ps pump is not pushing enough fluid to the control valve? where would the hum and grind sound come from? The ps pump did seize up for a few seconds on the short test drive but didn' after i discovered the other noises. The fluid level is good. Not sure if I should return The new ps pump and try another, or put in the new control valve , not knowing if the old one is good or bad. Any more thoughts? I have looked at other threads but found nothing specific to my problem, mostly leak issues which I don't have.

Thanks
PB
 

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I had a similar problem last year where I went through a couple rebuilt power steering pumps and changed the control valve and still had the hard steering problem. Rebuilt power steering pumps are notorious for going bad. Ended up cleaning, painting and reusing the original pump. Problem solved.
 

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+1 to what Jeff said. I had the same problem/solution. Also the spool in the control valve may be sticking.
 

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There is an adjustment under the cap on the slave cylinder, most of the time they are real close from the factory and don't need any adjusting, sometimes they do... I had the same thing going on in my old '70 (the one that got wrecked) anyway when I put it up on jack stands it worked perfectly, then under weight it would bind and feel like manual steering, to the right only. I took it to an "old school" mechanic (in his 70's and retired) and he adjusted it for me, worked okay after that. BTW I also had the drop bracket too for header clearance...seems like every time you do something that wasn't meant to be done (drop bracket) it screws up something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys

I will drop in the new ps pump and control valve and report back. Also how important is it to bleed the ps pump (Or the steering system) and what is the best way to do it?

Thanks
PB
 

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Why don't you do one at a time, and you will know which one is bad, start with the pump first. To bleed the system, you just turn the steering wheel lock to lock back and forth a few times with the engine running, and that usually does it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The problem is if I drop in a new pump and the control valve jacks that up I'm spending all my very little free time changing out pumps, I know is a costly call to drop it the new control valve but it does have 223.000 miles on it . There has to be some good to come out of this. If anything it's piece of mind knowing that it's been updated, If I'm wrong don't be within 20 feet of my garage otherwise you might get hit in the head with a power steering pump and a whole lot a attitude.

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Gonna pull the control valve off today, just ordered the new one from Don. Can anybody give me the quick and easy on the take out and install are there any tricks I should know?
Thanks
PB
 

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To remove the ball stud from the pitman arm: Take out the cotter pin and unscrew the nut until it is almost all the way off the stud, leaving a little "cup" at the top of the stud. Then attach a tie rod remover to the pitman arm with the threaded pusher pressing on the end of the stud. Using the proper size socket and a long extension bar, turn the bolt in the tie rod remover from above. When the stud breaks loose, remove the tool and finish removing the nut.

Make sure you remove the roll pin that keeps the valve from rotating on the tie rod.

Also, count the number of revolutions needed to remove the valve from the tie rod. Use the same number of turns when installing the new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yellow
You read my mind I couldnt get the damn ball stud off the pitman arm usuing the puller, I didn't think of leaving the nut on the end, killer Idea, do you have to remove this roll pin in order to remove the valve?
Thanks
PB
 

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Yes, you must remove the pin, and you may have to cut you wheels all the way to one side to get the valve un-threaded. By the way, the pin must be pulled out, because the hole doesn't go all the way through.
 

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Yellow
You read my mind I couldnt get the damn ball stud off the pitman arm usuing the puller, I didn't think of leaving the nut on the end, killer Idea, do you have to remove this roll pin in order to remove the valve?
Thanks
PB
Yeah, I figured that out a few years back. The puller kept falling off or it wouldn't pull straight.

As far as the roll pin goes, as towcat said you have to remove the roll pin to rotate the valve for removal. My pin broke. I never replaced it, the threads and clamp are sufficient to keep the valve from rotating if there is no pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The control valve is in and the new ps pump.It was a ***** getting the original out, and I didn't realize how bad it was. Thanks everybody for your input , It's because of you guys a flooring contractor like myself can wrench on his car. Thanks linn for speedy shipping on the new control valve, It's a nice unit and works great.
 
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