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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So, I'm not well educated when it comes to motors. I could spend hours and hours doing some research but I'm not sure how much that would help. I figured my best first step would be to start here.

To start with, my 351C in a '71 Cougar needs new valve guides. This I know because it smokes like crazy when I start it and have already done the valve seal replacement. I only wish I had realized the issue with the valve guides before doing all that work. Lesson #1 I suppose. The current motor has over 250K on it, I'm pretty sure. Trolling through craigslist, I found a Ford 400 motor and wondered if it was something worth playing with as a replacement, since I need to do something, I figured why not do something more if it makes sense?

Here's what I know so far from the person who has the motor:

400 Ford Engine


  • D7TE-A-2-B on the block
  • D5AE-A-2-A heads
  • D7TE 9425-SA intake(2V)
  • Edelbrock Performer 400 aluminum intake(4V)
  • Chrome valve covers
  • Valley pan
  • Flex plate
  • New fuel pump
  • What I think are called thermactor tubes
  • Motorcraft 2V carb

Here's some pics to go with the description...







Yes, I noticed the over spray on the oil filter etc too... Looks like there's at the very least some serious cleaning up to do. He's only asking $300 OBO. So, what are your thoughts on this?
 

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400 uses the 'tall block' bellhousing pattern, so your 351C trans won't bolt up. 351M/400 uses the same trans bolt pattern as the 429/460. The 351M/400 is a taller version of the 351C, much like the 351W is a taller version of the 289/302. There are other differences as well.

As you can see by the block casting at the front of the motor, notice how the intake manifold surface is on a raised wall about an inch high compared to your current Cleveland. This also makes the 351M/400 wider than your C, so exhaust fitment becomes an issue.

You'd be better off looking for another 351C to rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cougrrcj said:
You'd be better off looking for another 351C to rebuild.

Thanks for the information! :) I have my eye on one but need to come up with about $2 grand for it... :( the search goes on...
 

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I would rebuild the 351C, IMO it's a better motor than the 400.
And you have all the parts, everything fits.

Or if you really want something more, maybe a 351W stroker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I've considered the 351W but have a headache from reading all the arguments there are between that and the 351C, with the biggest issue probably being that parts are supposed to be harder to get/find for the 351C. Put that with the lack of skill required to figure out all the best combination's and it looks like I better either find one that's already done, or get to know my local custom engine shop guy... :)

I think if I had a plan on a decent rebuild for the current engine, I'd be OK. Meaning I could at least use that as a blueprint to work from and have machining done by a shop. I certainly don't have a problem getting dirty, and actually enjoy the learning process- taking the time to do the necessary research to do it right. I've done some research online to find a good plan to work from but there are sooooooo many that I have a hard time figuring out which one to start with. The other problem is figuring out when to stop!

A couple things that I do have right now is a new over sized oil pan and an Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold... hmmmm
 

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If I were building up a pickup or late-model Bronco; I'd give the 400 a try. Quite a few 351C goodies can be used on the shortblock; the big change being the intake manifold. With that said; applying most of the tricks used in building 2V Clevelands can make the 400 a torque-monster; great for slow crawling over rocks and such, as well a pulling a load.

It's not a choice for the Cougar, though..... don't know about your '71; but there's already an "impression" from the air cleaner assembly in the thermal blanket attached to the bottomside of the hood on my '73. Now, think about what happens when you install a block that's 1.1" taller and try to close the hood.
 

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This may be more my question than yours, but can't you just have the valve guides replaced.
Can they be pressed out?
Or can they be machined out and sleeves pressed in?
 

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Yeah, the obvious answer is to just have the heads done for a couple hundred bucks.

If I were going to put a 400 in that car, or consider it, I'd just go ahead and install a 460 or 429.
The 400 is a colossal waste of time.
You can buy a set of 2v heads that work and install them for about 150 bucks including the cost of gaskets. 2v heads are way cheap these days since very few are doing stock rebuilds of clevelands and most that hot rod clevelands eschew them as junk (which they are not).

You have more options than you realize, grasshopper.
 
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