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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm thinking about putting a 390 in my 67. I figured I'd do a mild build since it's a street car. So what's best bang for my buck. Is there an OD standard i can put behind it? And what kind of rear gear ratio should i go with? Would like a locker as well. so what do you guys think and thanks for the help. Forgot to add that i plan on boring it .30 over, running shorty headers.
 

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No help to ya but will be watching this thread as I have a 390 2v with 69 thousand miles that all the seals are dried out on. I want to go through it and might want to make it a little more too?
 

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I was thinking the same thing for my F250/390
 

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I would think hard about a 351 stroker versus the 390, that will get you comparable displacement along with small block compatibility, potential roller cam, lighter weight, and lower cost options for any upgrades. Not the cheapest, but in my experience the biggest power difference comes from a decent set of aluminum heads. Rear gear ratio is up to you; I ran a 3.70 for a short while and it drove me crazy, RPM's were too high. I changed to a 3.25 and they've been in the car for 20 years. With big block displacement, spinning tires does not require a high ratio gear. I like the Ford traction lock (with clutches) versus a locker, they're effective enough and don't make any clunking sounds.
 

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351 parts are cheaper than 390 stuff by a bit too. If you are going to run an OD tranny, auto or otherwise, I would go a 350 to 373 gear. The factory used those gears pretty regularly behind the OD trans with good results.
 

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Also, your 67 Cat probably doesn't have a torque box on the passenger side. If you're considering a street/strip build, the FE block will add weight w/ more low end torque. Hooking up the rear rubber to the pavement on hole-shot style launches from the line (or straight country road) could twist the unibody over time. So, if opting for the 390 big block, you might also want to consider beefing up the Coug's structural integity. Adding a one-piece export brace & monte carlo bar in the engine compartment would help. Adding a repro torque box to the pass side would also help out. I've not personally added a t-box to a 67, but maybe some of the other members have and could chime in.
 

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Depending on how much money you have to spend, you should also look into a 302 (5.0L) with or without a 347 stroker crank. No mater what CID you choose, getting the right combination of cam, intake, carb, headers and heads is most important. Here's a link for a 6 cylinder to V8 Swap in a 67 Mustang. You can find all kinds of these write-ups if you Google for them.

Anytime you add more HP to the car, you'll need to improved the original unibody. I've added subframe connectors (weld in) to 3 cars in the past that improve the car's rigidity.

Make sure you research and research again.
Good luck.
 

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I have put in a right side torque box in my 67. Not too bad a job but I would recommend cutting a bit of the floor out to get some weld in where it will help. Don't have to though. Have pics if you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
letsroll a pic would be great. I already have a torque box for the pass side i'm installing. A 351 stroker would be great but i was basically given the 390 that's why i plan on building it instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Depending on how much money you have to spend, you should also look into a 302 (5.0L) with or without a 347 stroker crank. No mater what CID you choose, getting the right combination of cam, intake, carb, headers and heads is most important. Here's a link for a 6 cylinder to V8 Swap in a 67 Mustang. You can find all kinds of these write-ups if you Google for them.

Anytime you add more HP to the car, you'll need to improved the original unibody. I've added subframe connectors (weld in) to 3 cars in the past that improve the car's rigidity.

Make sure you research and research again.
Good luck.
do you have any pics?
 

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letsroll a pic would be great. I already have a torque box for the pass side i'm installing. A 351 stroker would be great but i was basically given the 390 that's why i plan on building it instead.
I will give it a shot. Let me see if I can make the pics work here. I had to replace part of the floor board due to cowl leaks so it made it better for me getting in to weld where I would not have been able to. Used grinder to make clearance and clean for welding. I used a floor jack to get it into good solid position. Frame rail tie ins will also be installed. I will get some more pics tomorrow of the finish install.
0830091406.jpg 0830091405.jpg
 

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If you want to build a 390 talk to the guys at www.survivalmotorsports.com. You can get a fully balanced rotating assembly that will take your from 390 cid into a 445 cid for around $2200.00. This is cheaper then what I paid for pistons, crank polishing, beam polishing and reconditioning the rods and the balancing. These stroker kits came around after i built motor. Best of all when you open the hood you have a big block not another small block. Check out the Ford FE Forum at www.network54.com/Forum/74182 There is a lot of good info if you go ahead with your 390 build.
 

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expect to spend at least 5g on this engine as they are quite expensive to build
 

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What does FE stand for? I have a 390 but not sure if it is FE or not?
 

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My Cobra Jet 390 was about $5K to do, but that included a set of original CJ heads, an Aluminum PI manifold, and CJ exhaust manifolds. I think with stock GT parts it might have been $2500.
 

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FE = Ford Engine All 352, 390, 428, and 427, passenger car engines are considered FE's. I think there was a smaller displacement version before the 352, but who cares? They all share the same crank shaft bearing geometry, and all but the 427 have the same external block casting dimensions.
 

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No need to stroke the 390, it's got enough torque as it sits. The real benefit is to lighten the rotating assembly and valves to spin it up faster to get into the power quicker. Stroking it will just give you more torque that you will have problems putting to the ground, twist your unibody, and break transmissions. Depending on budget, get a set of bare Edelbrock heads, use a solid cam with corresponding springs, and Ferrea valves. Again, depending on your budget, Eagle makes rods that are stronger than stock and lighter. I don't recall which pistions are in mine, but they were also lighter than stock. Talk to a machinist in your area that is familiar with FE's. If none are, try contacting Keith Craft.

I have about $7,000 in my 428CJ and that includes a new crank and some other goodies.
 

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this is true, but fe's are a consistant 5g bottom line
I don't have $5000 into this. An FE can be done enexpensively, just like any other motor. They can also be done very expensively.


416FE.JPG
 
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