Hi Johnny welcome to the board! You should tell us more about it and how you came to be the proud new owner. I assum it's running OK and doing well now though? There are a few clevo guru's who will chime in to help you out I'm sure. It's wise to start of any thoughts of a rebuild with a good testing of the block and heads for cracks - clevo's are prone to that. What is your goal - staying stock, or hunting for more performance? Is it a 2 barrel or 4?
Sure thing, I've been looking for a cougar for awhile now and seem like this one found me. Got her up in San Jose and according to her vin she was build there had a 302 4 barrel so I know someone else put on the 351c. That being said she runs ok by ok I mean idles good but I think she's getting too much gas or not enough if I accelerate too fast (I think it's a carb problem). The reason I want to rebuild the 351 is because I don't know much about when it was installed, could have 20k miles could have 100k. Also I don't want to work on the body is the 351c isn't going to last long. I want to keep it stock if it is, but I know the 4 barrel is a edelbrock and manifold.
You may or may not "need" a rebuild. Check any and all numbers and info that is cast into the intake...(performer 2V, Torquer, etc) Also, get the carb number stamping...1400, 1405, 1407, etc. this will shed some light on whether you have a 2 barrel Cleveland or a 4 barrel. Identifying the carb will tell if you are over-carbed or if you have the right one. I am a huge fan of the AFB style carbs that Carter made and Edlebrock make. We might start with getting the Cleveland in good running order, but you will need to do some inspections to see if a rebuild is in short order. You'll need to inspect the engine for any major oil leaks. The spark plugs will need to be removed and inspected for oil and water fouling. Lastly, you should pull the valve covers to check for any loose rocker arms, broken valve springs or sludge build up. That should get you started in the right direction. Hopefully things check out, as it would suck to need an immediate rebuild as far show season ramps up. The Edlebrock carb, provided its a 600cfm, is a great carb for a stockish Cleveland. You will want to run a good paper element fuel filter. I buy the plastic see-through type so I can diagnose problems with fuel flow and cleanliness. DO NOT use the glass inline filters with the replaceable screens. They are garbage and will let a gravel driveway through them. The filter is important because the carburetor jets sit at the bottom of the fuel bowls where sediment collects and clogs them. This makes the engine stumble and seam to lose power. An appropriate tune kit for your carb would also be a wise purchase. After we know how the engine is doing and if it's the right carb, I can point you to the right rods and jets for your setup. Good luck.
Agreed - start with some basics. Do a health check - see what the cylinder pressure look like, test for vacuum leaks, make sure the advance works, check wires and plugs, make sure choke works, etc...... then you can start to drill down into what you really need.
The tranny probably needs a fluid and filter change. Depending on whether it's a C6, C4 or FMX, would be the determining factor on if, or how I'd rebuild it. An FMX can be somewhat costly to build and they have a heavy cast iron gear box. The C6 takes more power to run, but is pretty strong as a stock unit. I do know it will not want to shift into 3rd gear when it's low on tranny fluid...use Type F. Drag racers have been using well built C4 trannies for quite some time behind some high horse engines. I doubt this is the one in the car, but it could be since the Cleveland will mount in the stock location as the factory 302 4V. I believe they used 157 tooth flexplate and the FMX and C6 use 164 tooth flexplates. One thing to make sure of is that the carburetor has the Ford kick down rod adapter. This allows the use of non-Ford aftermarket carbs to be used in conjunction with 3 speed automatic Ford transmissions. The lockdown rod connects the carb to the lever on the side of the tranny that downshifts into passing gear. Sometimes there are shift problems when this isn't functioning properly. Vacuum leaks can also give you fits with automatic gear selection.
No. That does not sound right. I would want an exact parts list and some specs on what "hard parts" he plans on using. You can buy a TCI or a Hughes Performance transmission, built to handle whatever you plan to throw at it for $1,200. You have to use your bell housing.A bench build shouldn't run more than about $800-$900 depending on what performance parts are used. If you are planing on staying mostly stock, you won't want a shift kit that holds a gear too long, then snaps into the next gear. Its hard on the rest of the driveline and not worth the headache. If you get a little more juice out of the Cleveland, firming up the shift is okay...just not a necessity. You can get a very cost effective rebuild that can handle the Cleveland. Don't cut corners, but do shop around.