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Discussion Starter #1
I decided to start a new post to help answer the questions floating around about the GT40 heads and to showcase my new engine a bit. I almost went with the GT40 heads myself on my 69 351w, but after looking into all the machine work and costs, it wasn't really worth it. The old GT40 heads after all the work still don't flow all that great. So I started the hunt for some new heads. Edelbrock, World Products, Ford Racing? After talking a few things over and doing some research, I found that World Products made the best heads for the money and performance for my engine rebuild. You can get these heads complete or bare from Summit or Jeg's. These have worked excellent. I went with a Ford Racing cam, Weiand Stealth manifold, Holley 700 DP, Keith Black pistons, Heddman ceramic coated headers. Just to name a few parts. Similar build-ups have produced about 420 HP, so mine should be around that range. I looked into the GT40"P" heads, but was told they are over rated and you have to do some mods to get them to fit. Wasn't really worth it to go that rout. The World Roush 200CFM heads flow like nothing else. They bolted right up, no mods were needed. Couldn't have asked for an easier bolt-on. The spring range is pretty wide, so you can pretty much pick any grind of cam without getting new spings or they can match the head with larger springs. Below is a link to some photos (a new K&N air cleaner has been added since the photo)and to the World Products web site. Hope some of this helps.

http://mercurycougar.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2757:1poke:

http://www.worldcastings.com/downloadcatalog.shtml#ford
 

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That's a good looking motor Natcougar!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. There were some questions from my original posting that I never answered and I also changed my username. One question was about the valve covers and if it's a Roush block. It's a 1969 351w and I bored it .30 over. The engine is out of a 69 Mustang fastback that was wrecked about 20 years ago. The Roush valve covers are from World Products, like the heads. Jack Roush help design these heads for World. I've been very pleased with these so far. I had the machine work done at a local machine shop and had the short block put together there.
 

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For what its worth, you have chosen your parts combination very wisely in my opinion. I have touted the WP heads on more than once, and like you said there the best all around deal for most street machines, with much room to grow if the desire ever occurs. I think you will be very happy with your new motor I'll bet its a real horse!!

I still think myself the GT 40's are best suited for what they were intended for, 302's. mm
 

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Head selection

I was wondering what were some of your deciding factors to go with this head. 200CC is huge for the street but awesome for a big-breathing Windsor (read: stroker).

What mods have you done or what will you do to accomodate such a massive runner? Does World Products show their flow numbers or have you seen them somewhere?

I'm still looking at AFR's 205 head and the Victor JR from Edelbrock. Brodix's new head looks killer but it's $$$

Bill
 

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Hey natcougar,

Where are you from in Iowa? I'm located up near Waterloo in Reinbeck. My 68 Cougar is around 400 HP when its together... I get it put together, run it for a while, then take it apart again for some other project. My latest project was port/polish on a set of 289 heads with big valves... After all is said and done, I should have bought the heads you did... but who knew. I looked at them, but thought I'd be about half the money to do mine, but I didn't plan on finding a bad spot in the casting that required welding, nor did I plan on planing both heads, so I guess you live and learn. The guys at midwest cylinder head in Nevada, Iowa are pro's, anyone needing welding/brazing on a head should look em' up, they weld thousands of heads a year and are really set up for just that.

I'm excited to hear of another Cougar owner here in Iowa... I saw one in Chariton the other day... pretty rough but it looked like it had potential. I know of a 68 up near Waterloo, too, that is pretty rough, has a 351C 2V between the shock towers. Also has holes on the inner fenders for changing plugs. I take mine up to Cedar Falls Raceway from time to time (when it's together!)

Ron.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm located here in Des Moines, about two or so hours away from Waterloo. The AFR heads are another good choice, I've seen them on several cars and have heard nothing but good things. I went with the World Roush 200cc because of the combination of parts I was using, plus a guy I new put the World 180 Jr Lite's (Aluminum) on his car with a street 302 and they worked wonderful. They are also a great value for what you get. His car with the AFR heads was probably about 300+ HP. I figured if I was going to build a 351w, I would do it right. I took about three months to gather all my parts and to make sure all the parts were going to work with each other. The Roush heads flow like no other, it's a bit hefty for the sreet, but I can also hit the strip if I want without changing a thing. The throttle response from my Holley 700 DP is excellent. I didn't want to tear this down later on because I wasn't happy because I don't have an unlimited wallet. I have a TCI 3,000 stall converter, C4 with TranGo shift kit, 9" rear, Auburn gear differential, Richmond Gear's, 5-leaf Magna springs, Flowmaster 2 chambers from Heaman ceramic coated heddars. The car looks original, I didn't want to take away from that. Except for the Weld Racing 15x5 on front, and 15x8 on back with BFG 275/65/R15. The interior looks all original except for a few AutoMeter guages and tach.
 

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My inlaws live out between Ankeny and Bondurant in the country, I had my Cougar down there about 1 1/2 months ago and made a lap around the loop... too much trouble waiting to happen down there, but nothing else was going on, so... Mine was the only neat car down there, where are all the other street rod guys going on the weekend nights? I drove it all the way from Reinbeck, did just fine.

My 68 Cougar is a 302, 0.560"/0.560" lift, 294 duration cam, torquer single plane intake, 780 cfm single pump holley, 289 heads with 1.94"/1.60" Ferrea stainless valves, fully ported to FelPro 1262/1415 gaskets, C4 trans, shift kit, 3500 stall TCI converter, 9" posi, ladder bars, subframe connectors, blah, blah, blah... I do have the spin-tech mufflers and 3" exhaust, which I'm happy with... I should have it back to gether in the next week or so, I try to keep my projects down to a few weeks duration so I don't get DT's.

Cylinder heads: I ported and polished a set of 351W, DOOE-C heads for this car, too... I plan on either building another 302 or perhaps a 351W in the next year or two... who knows. These heads will outflow the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads according to the info from FORDMUSCLE and their flowbench data. I can't remember how they stacked up with the Roush 200's, yours flow more, I'm sure... especially with the 351W application.

Ron.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ya, they seem to flow pretty good and World does have some comparison data on thier site. Maybe we'll have to get our cat's together some time. Sounds like you have a pretty good build up yourself and your car probably sounds like one pissed off cat going down the road. That cam sounds nice and bumpy, mine is .498 a Ford Racing cam. That is one thing I do need to do is put subframe connectors on mine. Think I'm going with the Total Control subframe connectors. What subframe's did you go with?
 

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Nat, Your motor is similar to mine. I also have the dart sr, I mean world sr heads with a FMS cam and a performer rpm intake. My car really wakes up at around 3200rpm until the tach is bottomed out. I am running rhoads lifter so I can idle with the cam I picked
John
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Discussion Starter #12
I've heard of those Rhodes Lifters, I was told you really have to know what your doing with those, because they can bleed down took quickly. I just went with the Ford Racing lifters, the cam and lifter came together. Ya, I've been pretty happy with it all. I haven't really got all over it yet and to set my tach. I've had it out a few times when it's been cool and hit it from the stop lights a few times, but that's about it. It sure as feels like plenty of HP. The first time I hit the gas, I wasn't used to the throttle response from a Holley DP, the BFG's slid all over till I locked it into 2nd, and that about stapped my kneck and the tires screeched and slid a bit again. Kinda funny!
 

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I have never had any problems with the rhoads lifters. I put them in around 8 years ago (when I rebuilt my motor) and I haven't even had the valve cover off. I tried something different this year, I put the synthetic blend 5w 30 oil in to see if it would help it idle when cold but it really didn't make much difference. On cold start up the rhoads lifters act like normal lifters until your oil warms up and thins out. I have to admit that I have thought about a cam change to a little milder cam to help the drivability a little and maybe improve the mileage. 12 mpg sucks!!!
John
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Discussion Starter #14
Not sure about the 5w30, I use Trop Artic Racing 20w50 in mine. MPG.......I don't think I get gas mileage. Of course I didn't build this engine with the intent of MPG. As for the cam, the .498 Ford Racing cam I've got seems a bit lumpy and radical for the street, let alone the beast cam it sounds like you've got in yours.
 
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