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Hi, folks! It's been awhile since my last post, but it looks like I can finally begin the resto of my '67 standard coupe this fall/winter. I have some questions, though, so here goes; 1) Is it possible to cut a 2-3" x 9" hole in the firewall below the export brace and use the cowl as a source of supply air for the carb? 2) Where is the difference in length between the Mustang and the Cougar? 3) Is it possible to convert the wiper switch to a pulse/delay while still using the stock dash lever? Thanks for your time and consideration.
 

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I've been thinking about a cold air cowl intake, too. Below the export brace is the heaterbox/interior. If you wanted to take advantage of the high pressure cool air from the cowl, you have to cut the area above the export brace. There isn't much space below the hood, but I think it could be done. That's my plan anyway.

The Cougar wheelbase is 3 inches longer (111.4 vs. 108.3) and 14.6 inches overall (196.5 vs. 181.9). From the radiator support to the front leaf springs eyes, they are basically the same.

As for the wipers, check out what Bob has to offer. http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-wiper-all
 

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Classic!!!!!!
 

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If you open up the cowl to under the hood, you will need to create a very tight seal from the cowl to the carb. The air pressure under the hood is much greater than at the cowl opening. The tendency is for hot under hood air to enter the cowl and then inside the car. You will not believe how much heat that puts inside the car. The same thing is true if you put a hood scoop on it. The scoop has to sealed to a plenum under the hood or air comes out of the scoop. There are many better ways to get cold air into the carb.

The Cougar is three inches longer. The difference is in the back seat area. Mustang rear springs are too short.

Did you know that you can touch the washer pedal and get the wipers to make a pass, without the washers squirting? It might be what you need for no money at all.
 

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Well, those look cool, but are they really worth the effort? I doubt the cost to benefit return is there...
 

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That is exactly what I am talking about. Any of those look like they would work. Woodsnake has a point, but some times you do things for the cool to look at factor more than than the runs faster, jumps higher factor...
 

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Me? I'd find yourself a Mustang GT dual-snorkel aircleaner and run a couple of 3" or 4" dryer ducts (or the rectangular GM 4x2" flexible ducting) or one like this from Spectre to either beside the radiator or below the core support.
 

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Bill and Woodsnake, are you suggesting cold air or cowl induction doesn't work?

I wrote a quick program to calculate the density of an air fuel mixture based on the air fuel ratio, temperature, humidity and elevation. By changing the mixture temperature from 200F (typical under hood temp) to 100F (outside temp on a warm day), you can increase the mixture density by 6%. In comparison, going from sea level to 5000ft decreases the density by about 1%, but that seems to be a big deal to racers. If an engine's efficiency (BSFC & volumetric efficiency) is independent of the charge density, then you should increase horsepower by increasing the mixture density.

If you want a copy of my code, send me a PM.
 

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I haven't done the math, but I can tell you from experience that it doesn't make the kind of difference those numbers indicate. I have a car with factory ram air, and I have run it at the drag strip with out the ram air and with it in place, and the difference is very very small, and then only felt at the end of the strip (I think this is where the ram effect begins to kick in). This leads me to believe that the difference is not temperature related. I also suspect that your estimate of under hood air temps is probably too high. It is very common to see wires rated at 85 degree C / 185 degrees F used under the hood with no problems. At idle the higher number is a possibility, but at speed, I don't know.... What I can tell you is the volume of air coming in through the front of the engine compartment, assisted by a fan in most cases, will swamp the air that might come through an open hood scoop.

Ram air and non Ram air cars (R code and Q code CJ) were both rated at the same horse power. On the one hand this might have been an insurance related thing (under rated) or it might have been that they just couldn't make the claim due to the way the tests were run (no ram air effect, no impact of under hood temps).

Finally, if you could really get the kind of boost that the numbers imply for basically free, you would think that this would be the first thing every engineer would design into the car. I have driven the same car at sea level and at 5000' feet and the difference is huge. Much bigger than any cold air / ram air induction system I have ever experienced.

Given all of that, it looks really cool. A new Camry will put most Cougars into the weeds anyway, so its getting to be less about speed and more about having fun, I say go with what makes you smile.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Very cool. I have been in touch with Vic concerning suspension mods, and he went way above and beyond, so I'd be happy to send some money his way.
 

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Milo, I have an air cleaner assembly from an '85 Capri RS, but the snorkels are spaced too far apart for them to fit 'tween the towers. In addition, I'll be running an Autolite 2100 3x2 set up. Nevertheless, I believe air from under the bumper is cleaner ( less turbulent ) and cooler. I was just trying to establish if it was possible and structurally sound to cut a small hole ( or 2 ) to pull air from the cowl area. And thank you everyone for your help/advice/time/links.
 

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My opinion, (See disclaimer below) is that probably a set up like the original factory thunder bolt cars, is one of Ford's better idea's. The high beam into 4 inch tubing into the air box around the carb....Certainly everybody has the right of ownership with their vehicles. I just don't think the cost of labor,time, materials and money would pay out in realized street performance gains. For that matter, even a drag car probably wouldn't gain much, or a road course car. Maybe a NASCAR track build would see a measurable, quantifyable number...
 

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The Cougar is three inches longer. The difference is in the back seat area. Mustang rear springs are too short.
This is from the 1967 shop manual. It shows that the rear frame rails and leaf springs are 6 inches longer. The Cougar wheelbase is 3 inches longer, but Cougars are about a foot longer overall. I've never measured the back seat of a Mustang, but I'm willing to bet the seats are similar in length. I may be mistaken, but I thought the entire floor pan, including the rear seat riser, was the same.



As for cold air induction, see David Vizard's How to Build Horsepower Chapter 2. Here's a link to the chapter on Google Books.


New Camrys (SE V6) are pretty impressive running a [email protected] I'm shooting for a lot better than that.
 
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