I like to take things in waves and would like to have all the parts and battle plan ready for the next "segment" of the 67's build, the motor. This car will be a weekend cruiser for both the wife and myself so ridiculous cams are out of the question, it essentially needs to be a street car with a bit of giddyup. The 3.73s with the 4r70w I think will provide some gusto while keeping the rpms manageable for cruising at the 70mph highway speeds we have here.
That said, this is what the rest of the running gear is or will be:
Explorer rear with 3.73 and posi
4r70w (no Jmod, just a straight swap)
These are the parts I already have:
Block:
289 block
Planning on clean, magnaflux/inspect, hone if possible, bore as little as needed
Crank:
Stock crank, bring to factory tolerances
Heads:
GT40P Heads
Planning (3 angle valve job and M-6513-A50 springs, M-6514-B50 retainers, M-6571-A50 seals) and have them milled .015-.030 to maintain 54cc chambers.
Intake:
Professional Products Typhoon (similar to the Edelbrock Performer RPM)
Exhaust:
Sanderson GT40P Ceramic Coated Headers and Summit 2 1/4' dual exhaust
Carb:
Summit, 600 cfm, Square Bore, 4-Barrel, Electric Choke, Vacuum Secondary (SUM-M08600VS)
Distributor:
Pro Comp Electronics HEI Distributor
That covered, what I am still on the fence about is the following (and if going roller makes that big of a difference):
Cam:
Trick Flow Stage 1 or B-303
Will these keep it mild and still offer a decent profile? The only cam I have used was the Trick Flow Stage 2 and it was nice, but would be a little too lopey for what I want for this car.
Rockers:
Stay stock stamped or go with 1.6:1 Pedestal mounts? Will this offer smoother performance/cruising/durability? Has anyone gone this route on GT40P's? I can pick them up for around $200 shipped.
Lifters:
Comp Cams Retro Rollers 31-1000 with 851-16.
Same as above, has anyone used these, I can get everything for around $300 shipped.
Crank:
Should I just have the stock crank clearanced and polished or would switching to another crank offer a large enough improvement to justify all the rod/piston/clearance changes I would need to make over stock replacement/reuse?
Compression Ratio:
Should I maintain the stock 9.81:1 compression ratio of this A code? I am in SoCAL and 91 octane the top premium. Will this be a problem with cast iron heads, carb'd, on 100 degree days with load? I have never actually built an engine ground up, nor been involved much with carbs, so I need a no you're retarded it's fine, or are you crazy, of course that won't work type of answer.
Additionally, in about a month I will be taking the block apart and taking it to the machine shop, helpful wisdom from the knowledgeable sages here would be much appreciated. What are the things I need to ensure get done other than what I listed above, and what are those things that are money well spent I didn't list?
Thanks in advance......
Tony
That said, this is what the rest of the running gear is or will be:
Explorer rear with 3.73 and posi
4r70w (no Jmod, just a straight swap)
These are the parts I already have:
Block:
289 block
Planning on clean, magnaflux/inspect, hone if possible, bore as little as needed
Crank:
Stock crank, bring to factory tolerances
Heads:
GT40P Heads
Planning (3 angle valve job and M-6513-A50 springs, M-6514-B50 retainers, M-6571-A50 seals) and have them milled .015-.030 to maintain 54cc chambers.
Intake:
Professional Products Typhoon (similar to the Edelbrock Performer RPM)
Exhaust:
Sanderson GT40P Ceramic Coated Headers and Summit 2 1/4' dual exhaust
Carb:
Summit, 600 cfm, Square Bore, 4-Barrel, Electric Choke, Vacuum Secondary (SUM-M08600VS)
Distributor:
Pro Comp Electronics HEI Distributor
That covered, what I am still on the fence about is the following (and if going roller makes that big of a difference):
Cam:
Trick Flow Stage 1 or B-303
Will these keep it mild and still offer a decent profile? The only cam I have used was the Trick Flow Stage 2 and it was nice, but would be a little too lopey for what I want for this car.
Rockers:
Stay stock stamped or go with 1.6:1 Pedestal mounts? Will this offer smoother performance/cruising/durability? Has anyone gone this route on GT40P's? I can pick them up for around $200 shipped.
Lifters:
Comp Cams Retro Rollers 31-1000 with 851-16.
Same as above, has anyone used these, I can get everything for around $300 shipped.
Crank:
Should I just have the stock crank clearanced and polished or would switching to another crank offer a large enough improvement to justify all the rod/piston/clearance changes I would need to make over stock replacement/reuse?
Compression Ratio:
Should I maintain the stock 9.81:1 compression ratio of this A code? I am in SoCAL and 91 octane the top premium. Will this be a problem with cast iron heads, carb'd, on 100 degree days with load? I have never actually built an engine ground up, nor been involved much with carbs, so I need a no you're retarded it's fine, or are you crazy, of course that won't work type of answer.
Additionally, in about a month I will be taking the block apart and taking it to the machine shop, helpful wisdom from the knowledgeable sages here would be much appreciated. What are the things I need to ensure get done other than what I listed above, and what are those things that are money well spent I didn't list?
Thanks in advance......
Tony