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Discussion Starter #1
I thought I had a bad ignition switch so I dove into the column and pulled it out. Wellllllllllll a whole bunch of contacts and springs fell out of the damn casing. Does anyone might know how exactly this is supposed to go back together?

It will start, but as soon as I let go of the key it quits running. Also the Tach is not registering? Could this be related?












I cant figure out where this last little piece is supposed to go. thanks guys!
 

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I'd say yes that it is related, your coil feed is not present which is why it only runs when cranking, and it is also why the tack doesn't read. Sorry, I don't have any idea where the piece goes. Check with the guys at WCCC perhaps? I seem to recall someone makes a switch out of another year/model car's switch, bet that person would know.

http://www.cougarpartscatalog.com/d0az-11572-a.html

Did you try a search here for 70 ignition switch?

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah the switch is fine, just need to figure out where all the little parts go...lol

I looked into picking up a switch for a 71 and swapping out the pigtail, and I guess if I cannot get this one back together thats what I will do.

Also, the coil feed being off, how can I go about fixing this. I am totally new to the whole carb'd older setups. Give me EFI and I can do magic. lol

I know my Dad swapped out the distributor for a newer style that has the coil right inside the cap. It ran great for awhile with this setup, but since he passed away I haven't really messed with the car. I can get some pictures or info on the distributor if it will help.
 

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The coil feed not working is due to the contacts not being right in the switch. Get the switch put together right and everything should work properly (barring some other problem).
 

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So far my ignition swap has worked fine. My next upgrade is going with an HEI distributor in place of my original/pertronix garbage. I will be spicing a 12 volt lead from the switch to the new HEI distributor.

You have to bypass the pink resistance wire in order to maintain a full 12 volts to the coil with the HEI.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ron- do you remember how the internal pieces went together inside the switch? i would like to just put this back together if possible. If it comes down it it i will order a new switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alright, at this point I guess I am going to just pick up another switch and rewire. Ron do you just switch the connector over matching wires between the two switches?
 

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I didnt take my old switch apart. I decided it was easier to just to the wiring work on the pigtail.
 

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Alright, at this point I guess I am going to just pick up another switch and rewire. Ron do you just switch the connector over matching wires between the two switches?

IIRC 1 wire was a diff color. What I did was cut the old pigtail off the 70 switch close to the switch and then cut the 71-72 connector off the new switch and then made the connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alright, I had some extra time this weekend and ended up figuring out how the ignition switch went back together.

The Coug starts now but as soon as I release the key from "Start" it just shuts off. Also my tach is still not working. Would the tach not working cause the car to quit running after "start" is switched?

I just want to get this car running again so I can start restoring it for my father.

The Distributor is a cheap HEI knock off, that might be the problem also.
 

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I Just slobbed a $38.50 HEI distributor I got from some guys out of TN in my 70 H code Cleveland and so far it works outstanding. All I did was splice intothe red/green wire at the switch BEFORE the pink resistor wire that would normally run into the engine bay to maintain a constant 12 volts to the new HEI.

You may be better off spending the $30 or so bucks to get the 71-72 switch and swap the pigtails.
 

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Would the tach not working cause the car to quit running after "start" is switched?
Yep, because the resistor wire from the switch to the coil goes through the tach.

Having the "cheap knockoff HEI" may also be a contributing problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am not sure what brand or type the distributor is. My Father bought it shortly before we put the engine back in, and I cannot find any receipts or anything for it. It came with two caps, one red and one light blue and they both have the coil right in the cap. I am going to snap a pic and see if I can post it up.

I have the original distributor but no coil..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alright, here are some pictures of the distributor and solenoid setup. I also pulled the gauges from the dash. Everything on the tach side looks fine, but I am not sure what I am looking for. how exactly would I bypass the tach to get this thing started?







 

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To bypass the tach, simply unplug its two wire plug and jump the two wires on the harness side connector together. Easiest to do this with a like plug from a spare harness or what have you. If bypassing the tach makes no difference, the good news is that the tach is probably good. If this is the case, take a voltmeter or test light and check for voltage at the tach harness side connector with the ignition in the on position. Hopefully you will find voltage at one of the two pins. If you do not find voltage, your ignition switch still has a problem. If you do find voltage, then the resistance wire is broken between the tach connector and the engine feed harness. If this is the case you can run a new wire from the tach harness side connector pin that does not have voltage to your distributor, I don't think the GM HEI style distributors require ballast. However, even if the tach is good, I don't think it will work (indicate) inline with a GM style HEI distributor. If you want it to work with that type of distributor, you will need a tach module such as MSD sells. Hope this helps.

Regards,

Bob
 

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First, make sure all those crimped connectors are tight. Then PLEASE get rid of that red wire nut........

To bypass the tach, you need to connect the two wires on the car side of the plug that the tach was plugged into.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Bob, I will try that this weekend and post up results.

yeloxr7- you dont like my red wire nut? lol...my father and I bought this from some shadetree mechanic and we were in the process of sorting out all the things he had messed up. I guess that one got overlooked for some reason. I will take care of that before I do anything else.

Thanks guys!
 

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yeloxr7- you dont like my red wire nut?
I've seen worse. Like lengths of galvanized pipe with threaded elbows etc and a ball valve for heater hose plumbing.

My former neighbor's 68 Camaro is a wiring nightmare. Alarm, two or three immobilizer switches, electric door locks, then the stuff I needed to add to upgrade the base instrument cluster to the factory tach and console gauges (making a base Camaro into a [email protected]$$ed SS).

I had to trace and remember some of my add-ons to my Cougar a couple of weeks ago
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I tried bypassing the tach and no change with the starting problems. It still shuts right back off after I release the key.

I tested the tach connector with a test light. I have power to the male connector but no power on the two smaller wires going to the female connector. One is red with a yellow tracer and the other is Red with blue(green) tracer.



Power to the right and no power on the left. I tried tracing the wires to the engine bay and could not find them.
 
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