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Discussion Starter #22
but.. it's a bit more that 1hp per c.i... i'd like to be around 400+ horses and the engine will be a 357 ci. They said me my previous engine was a stroker engine, but it turned out to be only bored 60 over
 

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Sorry, I was confused about your parts selection with the 6.2 rods.
For example, 410 hp is only 1.16-ish hp per cubic inch with 351 inches. It's not super taxing for the engine to make that much flywheel horsepower with the right parts, and in many cases you can retain a good idle vacuum and street manners.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Hi all. I'm here with some news.

Good ones:
A) parts for my future engine are finally here in Italy.
B) i have not driven a lot of auto equipped american cars except mine, but i was in a '80 corvette as a passenger last night.. Well, that transmission felt sluggish. I dunno if it has some kind of trouble but.. My FMX shifted REALLY hard compared to that.. When old engine was still fine, at WOT when 2nd gear kicked in my tires squealed a lot.. Then a doubt comes to my mind: what if previous owner installed a shift kit? Could it be? A video of another fmx equipped car at full throttle could be useful to do a comparison..
Bad ones:
a) the engine: it will start to be assembled only by mid september '16..
B) i don't see my car from almost one year..
C) Italian drag racing main event has deleted A3 bracket racing category due to too less people racing in A3, and a lot of people racing in A2. It was the slowest category from 14.00 ET to slower declared ET. Now, slowest category is A2 13.00 seconds NON BRACKET ET. That means that a 13.7 sec car (for example) will not be competitive against the average opponents, and being that until now it existed a slower category i never worried about my future Elapsed Time.. But now i do a little bit. Well.. I actually do a lot.

357 cid (.30 over)
10:1 static CR
Aluminium AFR 185 Heads
Custom roller cam
Roller 1.6 comp cams rockers
Edelbrock RPM intake
Hedman shorty ceramic coated headers and manual exhaust cutouts
Msd pro billet distributor and blaster 2 coil
Estimated hp should be into 400-420 hp at flywheel.

Transmission will receive a transgo shift kit if it doesen't already has it and a high stall converter (well.. Reasonably high.)

3.50 rear end gears.

Car will be full interior and totally made of steel. Fiberglass quarter panels/hood are not in my plans now.

How fast could be my car down the quarter mile with a pair of Hoosiers drag slicks in the back? I really don't have an idea.

Oh, i forgot. I saw a bunch of different shift kits for FMX transmissions by Transgo. The most expensive, was referring to full manual shifts.. And thats not clear to me. It could only be manually shifted? I want to upgrade my tranny for occasional racing, but i also want to put it in "D" and forget about everything while cruisind around town.

Sorry, i know i wrote lots of questions but.. Everything is not going as i initially planned.. A lot of time is gone without noticeable progress.. And i start to be a bit worried..
 

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The FMX are pretty robust to start with...... I think I'd go with a basic Transgo kit and a good quality rebuild kit like this: http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=OPTI&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=OPT-FMX-RB and not get to fancy on manual valve body. No real benefit there. Looks like you have it pretty well planned out. The slicks will help the car launch more consistently and give you more bite going down the track. Really drag racing is about being consistent when it's all said and done. So it really doesn't matter how much power is under the hood if you can't be consistent. It's the tree that makes up the difference for you - you just have to leave without spinning and cut a good light. The rest is about knowing what your dial in needs to be and hitting it close every time. Not to many guys can sandbag without breaking out a lot..... running in a slower category with a faster car doesn't equate to a huge advantage. I had an FMX in my car for many years and it was pretty reliable. It would bark the tires a little at WOT in second with a shift kit in it. Now that I have an AOD in there it doesn't seem to be that way - but I think my converter stall doesn't match up very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Yeah but i'm new to drag races.. Never raced on a regular dragstrip, never raced with a christmas tree and never tried drag slicks. I will keep stock type suspensions for now, but there are so many variables that come into play.. My big fear is that after a lot of work i cannot find a category in my country where i could actually race! I really don't know what ET can i expect from that car. Expecially with stock type suspensions.. I fear to be too slow. I hope they will put out A3 category again next year, looks just like they knocked out beginners.. Unfortunately, drag racing has not lots of followers where i live, with only 2-3 race events per year.. The situation gets better in France or Germany but, Italy has to develop a lot..
 

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Beautiful country up there...... I know there is limited drag racing tracks in Europe, but there are some pretty good ones. I guess I just thought it was about the same over there as it was here...... every Friday or Saturday night during the summer. I guess we are a bit spoiled there! I would think your car should be able to get into the 13's with the combo you have. The cats are a heavy beast to motivate.....
 

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Discussion Starter #30
You're so lucky! It would be cool to go racing so often..

Anyway i hope so.. Mid to high 13 would still be cool. I could still be able to do some improvements by removing sway bar, trunk battery conversion, slapper bars etc.. And maybe become competitive in 13 seconds category by running low 13s..
We will see what happen next.. Can't wait to have the engine put together!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I misunderstood my mechanic. Crank & roda are now at the machine shop being that they need to be machined. Then, i bought a wrong set of bearings and i must take another set.
In the while, i'm looking around fore a proper torque converter.
Cam specs:
Adv dur. Int 275 Exh 281
Dur @.50 int 224 exh 230 Lobe sep 112.0
Valve lift Int .536 Exh .544

I still must decide what rear gears to run, 3.55 or 3.73.

What stall do you recommend for streetabilily and performance balance? Also most converters for FMX are "boss hogg" ones, and i heard bad feedbacks about them.
I was thinking about a custom made converter from Broader Performance. I'm open to suggestions.
Thank you.
 

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You need to decide gear ratio and tire size to really nail down what stall maatches that cam..... it's a pretty tricky thing to choose the right TC. I'd get with the cam manufacturers tech team and have them help you pick one out....... give them all the info and they should be able to match it up for you: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tech/transmission-how-to-choose-a-torque-converter.html

I had a Boss Hog in my AOD and it seems to be as good as any other from what I can tell....... Broader Performance is also a good choice. I'd go that way if I wanted a custom one.
 

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I do not recommend more than 3.50 for any car without overdrive in the transmission. Personally, I would not go above 3.25 with 1:1 final drive ratio. Overdrive changes the game totally.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Thank you. I had 3.25 rear gears until today, and they were fine, i felt i could tolerate 3.55 easily. But i don't know how it will feel with 3.73.
My street rear tire is 255/60 r15.
I will keep you updated.. A year is gone and i'm still so far from my goal.. That knocks me down.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Well, 4 years have gone from my last post and a lot of stuff happenned in that time.. mostly bad things.
The guy who should have built my car ended up into being an idiot and after three long years i had to bring my car to another garage to end the project.
Lots of money wasted.
To be more precise, two years ago i taken away the cougar on a trailer because it wasn't running.. i took her into the closest garage specialised into american cars and i asked them to only do the least expensive things to have it running just to drive it home and call it a day, and so that happenned.
After all that stuff, money started to be an issue and i kept it storaged for a year or so, also because i was busy with my job and other stuff.
Then i started to solve all the mess the first guy did here and there.. but some things were just too difficult to do for me into my garage.. i had to replace the rear main seal because he installed it wrong and my new engine was leaking oil, and also the car needed to be fine tuned because it was basically slower than a stock 351w.
Being tired of all that i decided to bring the car to the best american car specialist in italy and he solved 99% of the stuff.

Well, now everything seems to be better. The cougar is finally running strong and well.. damn. it's fast.
Long story short, that is what it happenned into las 4 years or so.

Mods list:
-ENGINE-
stock 1984 351w remanufactured block bored 30 over (but i didn't sell the original 69 block..)
AFR185 renegade heads
Morel roller Lifters
Comp cams ultra gold Roller Rockers 1.6 ratio
Comp cams Roller cam:
-Adv Dur: int 275 exh 281
-dur @.050: int 224 exh 230
-lobe sep: 112.0
valve lift: int .536 exh .544
Eagle forged crankshaft (the one i previously had into the old engine)
Eagle forged h beam rods (also the ones from the old engine)
Custom made racetec pistons (10:1 static cr ratio)
Edelbrock rpm intake
Holley 110 gph mechanical fuel pump
Quick fuel Q-750 carb

Misc stuff:
Hedman mid length headers, with true dual 2.5 exhaust through dynomax super turbo mufflers
Stock(ish) FMX transmission with a 2800 rpm Broader Performance converter and a Derale tranny cooler
Griffin Alluminium radiator
Hurst line lock
Kilduff "ratchet b**ch" shifter (recently installed, last month).
Ford racing 9" diff carrier with 3.70 gears, stock 28 spline axles

Well, if i could just remember how to actually post images i would like to show you all that stuff... It's been a nightmare, trust me.
You can also check some of that stuff into my instagram account if you like to.. (oscar.chio)
 
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