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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

My topic about my 377 windsor engine ended up in a general topic about my projects about the car..
So i started a proper topic.

Probably taking the car to a garage this week and start my project.

I'd like something between 400-420 crankshaft HP, and the wildest rear gears i can tolerate are 3.50.. highway cruises are still needed.

I sadly know that my 69 351w block is at its last bore.. probably a new bare block is needed. i'd like to save more parts possible, maybe crank&rods (to keep my longer stroke), msd distributor+6AL+Blaster2 coil for sure, but maybe the performer intake is too restrictive for the power i search.. New Roller cam and new heads for sure.

The parts i'm worried about are the ones related to the drivetrain. Drag slicks and glued tracks could destroy everything, if i have a good HP output..

Transmission: I currently have its stock FMX tranny.. at the moment it operates perfect. but it's an old tranny.. and i really fear destroying it in the first drag pass.
Don't know if i will end in a tranny swap or not.

Same fears are about differential (9" with "Spartan locker" drop in lunchbox locker), axle shaft, and all the drivetrain components.

I'd like to have 400-420 hp and a strong drivetrain. I'd like to do the whole work once, but still keep having fun on the road and at the track 3-4 times a year.

I hope my projects can be done with my budget, living in Italy, shipping costs and customs charges of parts from USA are expensive.. so i must save more parts i can, but still want a strong ride. :uhoh:

I will keep you updated.
Any suggestion is welcome.
 

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A stock (rebuild) FMX can take quite a beating, but 400 hp/trqe is pushing it's limits.
9 inch axle is a good base/start, I assume its a 28 spline? If you have never worked on an axle before, i would have an axle shop take a look at it, some components can be upgraded with relative "low" cost but do require specialist knowledge/tools. I definitely would not tackle this by myself since I don't have the skills nor the tools.
Something that is often overlooked though are the u-joints, wich can easily be changed/upgraded yourself.

Others can probably tell you more about ford 9" axle strength.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, Friday will be the delivery day. I will drive the cat 160 miles to the garage that will build my car.. First steps: compression test, taking out the engine, painting engine bay, the heads will go off to check if my cylinders are worn or not..

I am not worried about 400 hp / tq and an FMX, i'm worried about 400 hp/tq, an FMX and sticky tires.. But first we must inspect my old engine.. After that, we can build a plan.. I'm excited and.. A bit in fear also
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Let's start. News:
As you can see engine is out, my knock troubles destroyed my pistons. and i still driven the car 300 Kilometers to deliver it to the garage.
Luckily for me, Crank & Rods are in good shape. And yes, they are forged. Probably both Eagle products, mechanic should "decode" numbers on them tomorrow.
Engine block is already bored .60 over and i've got one worn cylinder.. Time to buy another windsor block.
Let's go with questions.. i still want a 400 hp reliable and street engine.

Can't decide between blocks for sale around.. Reman or new?
examples..
http://www.keithcraft.com/Item/blocks_351w
http://www.keithcraft.com/Item/Boss351_fordracing_SBF_Block
http://www.keithcraft.com/Item/shpfordsmallblock1
http://www.keithcraft.com/Item/ironeagle_dart_sbf_block
http://www.keithcraft.com/Item/sportsmanforddartsmall_block

So.. what do you recommend? What's the best balance between money and value for my application? the price on the reman block sounds nice..
 

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You could sleeve it if you really think the block is shot. How does the cylinder taper/runout look? What about picking up a crate engine from a reputable builder?
 

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Yeah, pick up a later model block to replace it.
Any stock transmission is gonna scatter if you put it between that much power and that much traction. The FMX can handle that power level if you spend some money on it. You'll be spending money on a transmission sooner or later.
460fmx.jpg
^ That one has a 460 and an FMX.
You may or may not twist the axles. I'd run the stock axles and see how it goes.
 

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Wow, that's not bad for 31's with steep gears and a spool ready to go. I think mini-spools make a car practically unstreetable, but I live in the mountains. Maybe people who live in the lands of straight roads don't mind them.
 

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yeah - pretty much a track only car. You could have 2 units and swap between them if you don't mind the effort - I was thinking of big series events when you are there for a few days. But I am not going back to that stuff - just eats up to much cash and time that I don't have. I am probably going to pull my roll bar this year and get used to being a spectator I think? IDK
 

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Yeah, it's a lot cheaper to have a nice car you drive to the races and watch other people blow up ten grand worth of parts. :) You get to smell the racing fuel, but get to drive your car home too.

One of the nicest things about the 9 inch is the ability to swap quickly between ratios or third members if you have 2 or more around. Less than an hour once you do it a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The guy who will build me the car, suggested to search a Dart block.. well..
In that engine i had forged crank and rods, and he told me they're in good shape so i'd like to save my rotating assembly.. except for pistons, of course.
I know that crate engines have a good warranty, but i'm on the other side of the ocean, and if something goes wrong i'd like to find who built my engine easily.
Anyway, brand new blocks i found (Ford Racing and Dart) all had 351C sized mains.. and i think it can be an issue if i want to re-use my forged crank & rods.. am i right?

also.. if i decide to sleeve al 8 cylinders on my 69 block, could it become more brittle? could it overheat? pros and cons?
Sorry for noobish questions, guys
 

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Discussion Starter #15
also, i still have not seen the engine with my eyes.. the car is 190 miles far from me now, she's near Bergamo, in northern Italy at the moment. I live in Emilia Romagna's East coast.. maybe this week i will go to see the situation.

I'm aware of buying a crate because i want to save my forged internals, and i'd like to have the builder near, if something goes wrong..
 

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WOW those things are expensive! http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/dart-race-series-small-block-ford-aluminum-bare-blocks
Nothing wrong with sleeving it. If your wanting to maintain it as a budget build and can get the machine work done reasonable it might be the way to go. Otherwise, I don't see any huge advantage to spending that kind of cash on just a block and still have all the machine expense getting it set up? I would go the crate motor route if it were me. That way you get a known good running engine with a warranty - granted it might be tougher to deal with over the pond. But you are in the same boat if you build it yourself anyway.... Just be sure to choose a quality brand. https://fordperformanceracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=13510
 

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Discussion Starter #17
In the end we decided to buy a remanufactured block to re-use my crank&rods.
I'm dealing with Keith Craft for different parts.. AFR 185's, a fully machined 30 over reman block, Racetec Forged Dished pistons, pins and rings.

But there's something i just can't understand.
My Eagle Rods: CRS 6200 BS
My Eagle crank: we can just read 135006200, but there are some missing numbers in the beginning.

On eaglerod.com i "searched by part numbers" my parts. with CRS-6200-BS i found two different types of H-Beam rods, all of them with 6.200 in Length.
With 135006200 i found 2 cranks, both with 3.5000 in stroke.

I let keith craft staff do the math to have a 10:1 Comp Ratio choosing pistons and heads. They answered to me choosing:
RaceTec Forged Dish Pistons .030 - 10:1 Compression Ratio
Ford Racing .040" Thick SBF Gaskets
AFR 185 cnc Complete heads, Hyd Roller, 58cc

I tried to do the math back, but there's something i just can't understand.
On http://racetecpistons.com/pages/racetec.php the page dedicated to dished pistons, (keep in mind the .030 overbore i want frome the new block) I found out that there are NOT combos with 3.500 stroke and 6.200 rod length... am i just paranoid or keith craft is right?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just did it. I misunderstood a couple of things, keith has put in my pricing quote custom built pistons but i did the math with off the shelf 030 over pistons and the math was wrong.

No problems at all so. Other questions: will 10:1 static CR be too much for a pump gas car? Keep in mind that 100 octane european gas is different from u.s. premium gas. We use RON rating, so 100 RON are not 100 US octane..

Keith also suggested a custom grind cam, and one of my fears is still streetability.
I need enough vacuum for brakes and a reasonable stall for street and highway cruises, i will probably be using 3.55 rear gears and tranny will get a tranny cooler. Also, FMX market is not so wide, what torque and what stall do you suggest?
 

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You're only looking to make about 1 hp per cubic inch, so it should be really easy to pull some decent vacuum with it if you get the right cam ground. Which is why it's important to get a custom grind.
RON-Octane calculator: http://www.csgnetwork.com/octaneratecalc.html

The converter should be fine around 2500. There are a few companies that make converters for the FMX. You can call and speak to them about your parts combination and all the other variables to get the right converter so you won't regret it.
 
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