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I'm about to lose it over this! I have a '69, had to have the window channels rebonded to the door glass. Took the glass and channels to the best shop in town to have it done. Looks like they did a nice job, very clean - even better than the factory.

I decided it was time to replace the old weatherstripping, which was crumbling and half gone in some places. Now I can't get the glass to seal against the new weatherstripping. I've tried adjusting the in/out angle at the top of the glass by loosening the bolts at the bottom of the door. They are outboard as far as they can go, which should tilt the glass in at the top. Not good enough, there's still about a 1/4" gap between the glass and the weatherstripping at the roof rail.

I also loosened the adjustment at the top of the door, to move the whole assembly in, and that still isn't working. I've followed the steps in the Shop Manual for complete adjustment, and still have the problem.

With the window glass fully raised, it seems to be OK at the base of the A pillar, then bows out near the roof rail. You can see the gap between the glass and the weatherstip on the A pillar from inside the car. The wind noise is bad, and there's no seal to keep water out. At the roof rail, the glass is evenly aligned, but there's about a 1/4" gap between the glass and the rubber. I know I must be overlooking something, but darned if I know what it is!

The glass seems to be sitting straight in the channels, not installed at an angle when rebonded, so what gives? Even putting the glass regulator and run adjustments back to the factory settings isn't any good. I could see the marks on the paint, and put them all back there. How in the world could this have sealed when new, but be so far off now?

Thanks for any help,
Andy
 

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Bad windows!!!

Andy,


Some smart ass's will tell you that the secret is to install 70 windows........duh.

This is one of the most frustrating things to deal with in 69's! All I can say, is to keep looking at it.... It "sounds" like the glass was glued back in at an angle, but you say that the glass looks good in the channels.... If the glass is sitting on the bottom of the channel, this may contribute slightly, as originally there was probably an 1/8" of material spacing the window "up" a hair, which it sounds like you may need.

You don't mention your fore-aft alignment with the 1/4 window. If this gap is correct, and your front a-pillar gap is good, then I am stumped!!!!! Something should not be looking right at either of those two points....

I have had to slot the holes in the door sheet metal from time to time, but typically, this was due to "too much" material in the u-channels, requiring drastic measures.

My $.03 would be not enuf material in the bottoms of the channels.....

Hang in there!
Steve
 

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Wrong Angle

Andy:

Sure sounds to me like the glass was glued to the channels at a slight outboard angle. It doesn't take much angle at the channel to throw things off 1/4" up at the roof rail weather strip. There is usually some side-to-side play in the channel so it's not difficult to accidentially have it tilted out when reglued. I've always tried to make the glass lean in a bit as there seems to be more adjustment toward the tilted out direction then the tilted in direction.

I think you have two alternatives to fix it - 1) take it back and have it reglued (but they're not gonna know what to do to ensure the problem doesn't recur, or 2) place a shim (flat washer) between the channel and 'C' bracket that slides on the rail at the lower screw. This should tilt the glass back in enough to fix the problem using the lower in/out adjustment procedure. I've done this before and it works although it can be a pain to get the washers in there. And remember - the 'C' channel is aluminum and the bolts are steel so if you over tighten them or cross thread them - you'll be looking for new 'C' pieces.

Good luck. The other, other, Ray
 

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pacat said:
Andy:

Sure sounds to me like the glass was glued to the channels at a slight outboard angle. It doesn't take much angle at the channel to throw things off 1/4" up at the roof rail weather strip. There is usually some side-to-side play in the channel so it's not difficult to accidentially have it tilted out when reglued. I've always tried to make the glass lean in a bit as there seems to be more adjustment toward the tilted out direction then the tilted in direction.

I think you have two alternatives to fix it - 1) take it back and have it reglued (but they're not gonna know what to do to ensure the problem doesn't recur, or 2) place a shim (flat washer) between the channel and 'C' bracket that slides on the rail at the lower screw. This should tilt the glass back in enough to fix the problem using the lower in/out adjustment procedure. I've done this before and it works although it can be a pain to get the washers in there. And remember - the 'C' channel is aluminum and the bolts are steel so if you over tighten them or cross thread them - you'll be looking for new 'C' pieces.

Good luck. The other, other, Ray
Ray beat me to it but I also think the glass is glued outboard when it should be glued inwards. I also have shimmed but I hate that. It needs to be right. If U can't tip the glass inward with bottom of door 7/16 head bolts then sounds like a reglue is in order.
 

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Since the mis-glued glass angle has been covered quite well I'll skip that one. :D A couple of more items to check. Start with the plastic slides in the "C" shaped guides. With the door open and the window 95% up, see if the window wobbles. If it does, the plastic slides could be worn and introducing slack. Sometimes you can shim them with some really thin metal (24-26 gauge) but it is better to replace them with slides from a low mileage passenger door. Also check the two bars they slides ride against, make sure they have not broken free at the top. You can also shim between the top of the bars and the door but check the gap between the weatherstrip and the glass closely if you do. You do not want to force the glass against the inner weatherstrip or leave a large gap on the outside.

As a lot of folks close doors by grabbing the window frame and swinging the door. This is a bad idea on cars without a window frame like our Cougars as it puts the pressure on the the window channel. I have seen channels with both sides bent because of this. The correct shape is for the sides of the guides to follow the gentle curve of the window support. If yours are bent, the windows may have been glued in properly but the bent sides are throwing the angle off. An easy way to check is to measure the width at the bottom and at the top of the channel, these measurements are supposed to be the same.
 

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I have LOTS of the nylon runners for the C guides should U need.
 

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I have my passenger window out of it's channel right now because it was so screwed up from before. I have never done as re-glue on one of these and really don't want to attempt it either. I know I would screw it up worse than it was. If 70 windows are the way to go and never have to worry about the glue again. Sounds good to me. Who's got 70's windows for sale? I could swear there was someone on here at one time that said he would do the re-gluing of windows if we sent him our windows. Is he still around?
 

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mnkybrz said:
I have my passenger window out of it's channel right now because it was so screwed up from before. I have never done as re-glue on one of these and really don't want to attempt it either. I know I would screw it up worse than it was. If 70 windows are the way to go and never have to worry about the glue again. Sounds good to me. Who's got 70's windows for sale? I could swear there was someone on here at one time that said he would do the re-gluing of windows if we sent him our windows. Is he still around?
Here I am.... Yes I can rdo the glass if U need it. Bruce has a really good article on how to do it. I have 70 glass and some hardware but not all hardware. Missing DS HW.
 

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Have somebody any pictures of the window installation ?

Becuase i got the same problem here in Sweden
 

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joli001 said:
Have somebody any pictures of the window installation ?

Becuase i got the same problem here in Sweden
Sweden
Send me an email
I have a scan of the adjustments and directions.
 

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Window repair article

All,


I also wrote up a detailed article somewhere here about fixing 69's using automotive silicone adhesive and recommending that you do NOT remove all of the factory adhesives, so that you can use them as a guide...

Typically, if this is done properly, you can reset all of your adjustments to the marks in the metal (if you can determine which were original marks...) and your windows will be spot on!!!!

Do a search for window repair, or on my screen name to see if you can find it. It was not that long ago.

Steve

Note to ADMIN: Don't ya suppose this topic, and a couple of the good threads should be in a special area or a sticky???
 

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Has anyone tried masking off all but an inch on so of the '69 glass, then either etching with acid or gently sand blasting
that area ? It would have the texture of frosted glass and I would think this would end the glass bonding issue. I need to address these same issues on my '69 Ecat, as I have the glass out now. After reading this post I think I am going to bond the glass working inside the door to get the proper tip in and front to back position.
 

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lugnut said:
Has anyone tried masking off all but an inch on so of the '69 glass, then either etching with acid or gently sand blasting
that area ? It would have the texture of frosted glass and I would think this would end the glass bonding issue. I need to address these same issues on my '69 Ecat, as I have the glass out now. After reading this post I think I am going to bond the glass working inside the door to get the proper tip in and front to back position.
I have run my angle grinder across the adhesion area and scuffed it up reall good. Still not really any better.
 

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Why don't ya believe me!!??

......automotive silicon.

Held up for 10 years in a power window car (hard on window glue), until the car was munched.... sold the windows (I think) to Don Rush..... he's probably sold them to one of you!!! Never had to redo one of these........ yet! Every "professionally done" job has come back to me.....

Steve
 

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fastmerc said:
......automotive silicon.

Held up for 10 years in a power window car (hard on window glue), until the car was munched.... sold the windows (I think) to Don Rush..... he's probably sold them to one of you!!! Never had to redo one of these........ yet! Every "professionally done" job has come back to me.....

Steve
I've seen some done in sillycone. Do U recall the brand? Obviously its an adhesive sillicone. Here for boats we use Sikaflex which is an expensive adhesive sealant I have thought of trying.
 

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lugnut said:
Has anyone tried masking off all but an inch on so of the '69 glass, then either etching with acid or gently sand blasting
that area ? It would have the texture of frosted glass and I would think this would end the glass bonding issue. I need to address these same issues on my '69 Ecat, as I have the glass out now. After reading this post I think I am going to bond the glass working inside the door to get the proper tip in and front to back position.
I do. Not only that, I recommended it in the TCCN article on this topic. I also have used a dremel tool with a #409 cutting wheel to cut grooves into the glass with equal success. One update to the article, do not try to drill or sandblast completely through the glass, it will shatter. From cheap glass bits to $30 diamond glass drill bits, the results are the same. The glass will shatter at about 1/4 through the glass.
Joli001, go to http://www.theclassiccougarnetwork.com/tccn/framex.html and check out the Regluing 69 Glass article in the tech section (Found in the Encata section), hopefully it help you.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My thanks to everyone for the suggestions offered in this thread. I definitely have a few new things to check now that I didn't. I was planning on tearing into one of the doors this weekend, but an annoying squeak detoured me. (I finally determined my fuel pump was about to bite the dust, and warning me by squeaking, so I replaced that instead.)

I'm fairly certain the glass is properly centered in the channels, as I checked pretty well before installation. There isn't much of an adjustment there anyway, and I would hope the engineers would have allowed adequate adjustments elsewhere in case the glass wasn't properly centered in the channels. There doesn't seem to be any directive in doing this from the factory, so I assume centered in the channel would be correct. I figure if the glass were angled in the channels, at the most it could only be off 1/4", which should surely be within the limits of adjustment, but we all know how that goes.

I hope to tackle this next weekend if all goes well, so I'll be sure to let everyone know if I discover the miracle cure for this.

I used to have a '66 Thunderbird, and I thought those windows were difficult to work with - they're a piece of cake compared to the '69 glued in glass! Thanks again for the advice!

Andy
 

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Is there any specs as to where the window should sit in the channels? Anything written in a manual? Is there anything in the repair manuals? Pictures? Diagrams?
 

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mnkybrz said:
Is there any specs as to where the window should sit in the channels? Anything written in a manual? Is there anything in the repair manuals? Pictures? Diagrams?
one inch from each end works as purr Bruces TCCN article or I have a diagram scanned I can email if U send me an email.
 

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I'm about to lose it over this! I have a '69, had to have the window channels rebonded to the door glass. Took the glass and channels to the best shop in town to have it done. Looks like they did a nice job, very clean - even better than the factory.

I decided it was time to replace the old weatherstripping, which was crumbling and half gone in some places. Now I can't get the glass to seal against the new weatherstripping. I've tried adjusting the in/out angle at the top of the glass by loosening the bolts at the bottom of the door. They are outboard as far as they can go, which should tilt the glass in at the top. Not good enough, there's still about a 1/4" gap between the glass and the weatherstripping at the roof rail.

I also loosened the adjustment at the top of the door, to move the whole assembly in, and that still isn't working. I've followed the steps in the Shop Manual for complete adjustment, and still have the problem.

With the window glass fully raised, it seems to be OK at the base of the A pillar, then bows out near the roof rail. You can see the gap between the glass and the weatherstip on the A pillar from inside the car. The wind noise is bad, and there's no seal to keep water out. At the roof rail, the glass is evenly aligned, but there's about a 1/4" gap between the glass and the rubber. I know I must be overlooking something, but darned if I know what it is!

The glass seems to be sitting straight in the channels, not installed at an angle when rebonded, so what gives? Even putting the glass regulator and run adjustments back to the factory settings isn't any good. I could see the marks on the paint, and put them all back there. How in the world could this have sealed when new, but be so far off now?

Thanks for any help,
Andy
I did the same job on my '69 drivers side glass and the entire window seems to be away from the car. The car went into the shop shortly after so I haven't tried adjusting it in yet. I followed the video from West Coast Cougars on how to do everything. I didn't, however, put the window in a vise. Also I used some webbing wrapped in tape to use as a centering tool on the brackets.
 
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