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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Today, Ive replaced all bulbs on the instrument dash but they won't light up (Turn signals, brake, etc.) ALL lights including sequentials on the outside work but not on the inside. Fuses on the bottom of dash are all good too.

I also notice when I took the dash out I have 2 connectors unplugged, so what are these for?
2.jpg

And where does this boot behind the dash connect to?
3.jpg



Thanks to everyone who comments and I truly appreciate your help
 

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I think the top pic. is radio, and bottom is clock, which both were optional. The two blue wires are for lights, if you check for voltage at this point with the lights on (and the knob turned all the way left) and you don't have any voltage, it may be the light switch. The red plug to the right of the radio plug, is also for light hook up, you can check for voltage there also.
 

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that is so weird. When I put my dash back together I too have both those plugs unconnected and I could not figure out where the male side of either plug went. Funny, but my dash light also do not come on with the switch. I wanted to check the voltage, but my light switch is out of the car being checked out. Let me know if you check the voltage and if this fixed your dash light issue.

Thanks, Jeremy
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The black plug does have voltage but not the red plug. Light switch also has voltage. On my dash the turn signals do not work only on the outside so I checked the fuses and im getting voltage everywhere except the small middle fuse... its completely dead. Anyone one know how to remedy this issue?

20111218_143434.jpg
 

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Check both sides of the fuse post, if no voltage, remove the whole fuse block from the firewall and look on the back side for where the power jumps to that fuse holder from another spot on the back, there may be a break or bad connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I just checked the back and its also completely dead. From the color of the wires that middle holder seems its for the radio or anybody know what its for?

20111219_145543.jpg
 

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I finally resorted to the wiring diagram, the blue with red tracer comes from the light switch through the fuse to the radio connector and then to the dash cluster feed. You need to pull your light switch and check where the blue/red wire is connected and with the switch on in the park light position check for voltage. Power is supplied to the light switch from the black with orange stripe wire. your problem is in the light switch or light switch plug.
 

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Is the notation on the fuse block INST. LT. short for instrument light?
 

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Yes. You get voltage there with the headlights or parking lights on. If not it probably means the rheostat portion of the headlight switch is bad.


Is the notation on the fuse block INST. LT. short for instrument light?
 

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That's what I said!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I finally resorted to the wiring diagram, the blue with red tracer comes from the light switch through the fuse to the radio connector and then to the dash cluster feed. You need to pull your light switch and check where the blue/red wire is connected and with the switch on in the park light position check for voltage. Power is supplied to the light switch from the black with orange stripe wire. your problem is in the light switch or light switch plug.
Thank you Towcat. I just checked and voltage is running through the black/orange stripe wire but there is no voltage in the blue/red wire or the plug, does this mean i need a new headlight switch?
 

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That's what it sounds like to me. That is the only way voltage can get to the dash lights is through the switch.
 

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Maybe all you have to do is remove it and clean the rheostat and the contact strip. It all disassembles very easily.

Thank you Towcat. I just checked and voltage is running through the black/orange stripe wire but there is no voltage in the blue/red wire or the plug, does this mean i need a new headlight switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I appreciate all your help Towcat. I just bought a new switch and I will keep an update on how everything goes. Royce I will definitely try that if im still having problems once the new switch is installed.
 

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You won't have anything to try. The rheostat is part of the headlight switch. If you replace the switch there would be no reason to clean a brand new rheostat.
 

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You won't have anything to try. The rheostat is part of the headlight switch. If you replace the switch there would be no reason to clean a brand new rheostat.
Both sides of the instrument fuse are dead until headlight switch is pulled at least half way on and rheostat is turned to full brightness.
 

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Ed Zackery. That's why if the rheostat is frosted with surface corrosion you won't get any voltage to the fuse on either side. You can clean it with a bit of Scotchbrite and it normally will work fine again.

Both sides of the instrument fuse are dead until headlight switch is pulled at least half way on and rheostat is turned to full brightness.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Merry Christmas everyone. Alright I got the new switch yesterday and Towcat you were right... it was the switch. I replaced it and FINALLY everything illuminates. Two problems arise though. My car won't start but im assuming its because of the Neutral Safety Switch since I was having problems with it already since the car will only start in Neutral gear. The other problem is when i put on the turn signals the bulbs don't flash... they just stay on but it looks like they kinda do want to flash.

Anyways Jman271 or anybody else needs a new headlight switch, here is where I got mine for $24 with promo code plus free shipping. Not bad. You just need to take out the "C" shape extension from your old switch and glue it to the new one.
http://www.am-autoparts.com/Ford/Torino/HeadlightSwitch/AM-29852221/377504.html?utm_campaign=gb_api_nobr&utm_medium=comparisonshopping&utm_source=google_base&utm_content=ZHS&gclid=CIy-ke3Mkq0CFQg1hwodswjGmg

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