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Discussion Starter #21
All that fab and welding
and you did not paint it well enough to prevent it from rusting?

We;; you have to remmeber from the opening. I have finished college/got a masters and an MD finished residency and bought a house. The car was in storage. I think it's cool that I managed to keep it all these years. I also didn't give up
 

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I put a late model Aluminum Vette rear section under my 41 Buick, and in looking at how you have the center section bolted DIRECTLY to the frame I am wondering about the transfer of vibrations? I know mine is mounted with 2 flexible mounts, one at each end of the cross member that holds the center section which eliminates such. I also have some small weighted devices that help reduce or eliminate harmonic vibrations. These are mounted at the end of the center section cross member which is suspended between the flexible mounts.

I'm NOT saying you are wrong, but wonder if you aren't going to experience vibrations, etc. Maybe there is something I don't see in the picture?

Dale in Indy
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I might have vibrations. Who know's I guess I'll see when I drive it. I didn't make the mount it came that way from speedway motors. It was to put a vette in an old ford.
 

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The way it is mounted allows for the car to sit lower, and probably that is the reason it is as it is.

Well, it's NOT the end of the world, if you experience some unpleasant noise or vibrations, you can always review and fab something that insulates.

I wasn't picking on your project, FOR SURE.

Dale in Indy
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Dale,
I actually appreciate the advice. It is something i hadn't thought about. While i could easily add some rubber pads to the mount. The pinion support is firm with two rods with adjustable rod ends without movement. So that end might translate vibrations. I guess i'll wait and see. I got so much to do on the car. i'll wait until it's done before i reengineer stuff. There is always room for improvement
chris
 

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You are going to THINK I am picking on you, I'm NOT, I just can't tell from the pictures....

Do you have a TORQUE tube devise mounted to the CENTER or PUMPKIN section that runs towards the front of the chassis? I don't know what year your suspension came from, but on mine, Vette used a channel of aluminum that was approx. 48" long to control twisting of the center section. I see your forward control arms that are connected to the outer ends of the half shafts, but I would suspect you need such for the center section as well.

As I said, CAN'T TELL FROM THE PICTURES what you have fabbed for such. That piece needs to me mounted in rubber of sorts in the front too. The original piece is Alu. channel and wraps around the drive shaft.

Dale in Indy
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The pinion support is firm with two rods with adjustable rod ends without movement.

The rods go out to the frame on both sides. The rear cannot move with this in place. Your right about this concept. Also I don't think your picking on me

chris
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well I have made some progress. I now have mounted a 2003 Cobra hydrobooster. It fits in nicely between the front roll bar etc. I had my machinist friend make up a billet adapter to mount it to the firewall. I then had some hydraluic lines made up. I had to go bone yard picking to find the front powersteering pump and alternator mounts. The lines and adapters were chalenging. A 1973? ford PS pump to the hydobooster to the Jag rack and pinion. I also have been working on the e brake. I'm going to try a Lokar cable and a fox mustang e brake. I bought the upper shock mounts for the front and will try to get them mmounted and the shock lenght figured as well. A few weeks ago I mounted the decklid. I had to cut all the mounting pices out to put the wheel wells in. So I had to make some mounts for the hinges. The hinges were too long long so i cut them first. I'm also going to run a ss flipper gas cap. I think I'll mount it behind the rear window. The throttle cable is also monted with a billet alum pedal mounted to the firwall. These details are painful b/c everything has to be thought out and fabricated or fitted. A restoration is easier b/c it just goes back to stock. I still have the fiberglass front to deal with (strengthening and work on some of the mounting aspects). It's getting there slowly. I'll try to get some pics this weekend. My plan is to get all the fab work done and then strip it and put it on the rotisserie for blasting and painting.
 

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Very impressive work!! Wish I had enough time and $$ to do work like that. QUICK QUESTION, I noticed you have the same rims that I have on my '69. I am tryuing to figure out what kind of rims they are...I am pretty sure they were not stock, especially on my STD model.

...Also, if you have any tips on how to clean them up, I am all ears. They have most defenitely seen better days!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Mine are aftermarket I bought over 10 years ago. Unfortunately I have no idea what they are. I know if there corroded beg or borrow someone bead blast cabinet and bead blast them. You can get them looking like new. Then sand and polish the parts you want shiny. Clear or paint the parts you don't want shiny before you polich the shiny parts. That way the polish won't get in the alum pores
chris
 

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Funny. Those same wheels came stock on a friends 1978 Camaro Z/28. Seen them alot in the past on various cars and I even think that Cragar sold them or Keystone. Not sure though so don't quote me!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I'm doing the dreaded cowl repair. It is the only rust left on the car. I hate this job. The engine and tranny and exhaust are out. I'm getting it ready for the rotisserie.
I really gotta post some pics
chris
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Well it's on the rotisserie. What a pain to get the balance right. It's pretty nice to be able to spin the car though. A little more welding and then taping and it'as ready for blasting. I gotta take the front suspension out before blasting
 

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Discussion Starter #36
More pictures! Finally, I have been working on it just haven't updated the thread. So far the rear end (Vette) is at the differential shop getting new bearings and rebuilt $612. The engine and tranny painted (rebuilt years ago). All the engine brackets and pulleys powder coated. The intake powder coated. The jag suspension completey dissasembled bead blasted and each piece powder coated. The rear half shafts bead blasted and painted. The rear vette hubs at the machine shop getting rebuilt. The car's floors have obviously been blasted and will be expoxy primed tomoro. What a pain to blow off all the black beauty. It's finally starting to come togethere. I can't wait to get it all primed and start putting it back togethere.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
It should be a nice runner the front brakes are Jag with 4 piston calipers and vented rotors the rear vette. The front is rack and pinion with unequal a-arms. The rear has alum hubs and coilovers. It has a 10 point full cage tig welded in. The exhaust is 3 inch 304 stainless. It has power steering with a stock 460 setup. That runs the 2003 Cobra hydobooster and then goes to the jag power rack. The headers are full lenght custom equal lenghts. The nose is the tough part it's a race fiberglass unit but they come through rough. I will put some time into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Well it's semigloss black now. Boy is that epoxy primer sticky!!!!! It looks great. I will take some pics tomoro after the fog dissipates. I gotta lot of work to do on it now. It's almost ready to reassemble. The differential guy called today. It's ready for pickup.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Here are the painted pics. Also I started the dreaded cowl repair. One side just needed a hat. Of course you have to buy the whole thing for $50 and then cut the hat off. Oh well. The other side required a little more metal. Here are the pics of the panels welded and ground down. The cowl itself I blasted today. I hate sandblasting I'm still shaking sand out of my ears. Hopefully next week I'll weld it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
The bottom
 

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