Wiring woes
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Thread: Wiring woes

  1. #1
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    Wiring woes

    Last night I bought a new voltage regulator on the way home from work to try out. Nada. It did not change anything. In fact the car would only turn over and would not fire. I talked to the guy who built my engine and told him what was going on. He told me to check the wires from the alternator to see if any had been damaged. They all looked fine. I remembered that before I changed the interior that i could always hear the fuel pump when I turned the ignition to the on position. Now I could not hear it. So I thought maybe I am not getting any fuel. So I crawled up under the rear of the car and the Holley fuel pump was humming. I guess the sound deadener I put inside the car works well anyway. I checked all the wires to the MSD box and they look fine. I hope I did not fry the box. That is as far as I got last night. Tonight I am going to take the dash panel out again and see if I can follow the ignition wires to see if they were damaged. I also plan to check the transmission linkage to make sure it is all aligned properly as i had to move the Quarter Stick when I was putting the carpet in. I really hope I can figure this out. I would rather have a old wore out interior with a running car than a nice interior that just sits in the garage because the car will not run.

    Tom
    Hidden Content 1970 Cougar, 351C-AUS 2V


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  2. #2
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    Tom,

    Pull a spark plug wire and check for spark to rule out the MSD box. Careful, it hurts bad if you get zapped. I had a problem once when it was one of the wires going into the regulator plug was bad. Think it was a ground wire. What about the wire that goes to the selanoid that is I think labeled I for the ingnition? How does that look, did it come loose??????

  3. #3
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    Vinnie,

    I will do that with the MSD tonight when I get home from work. I have a 70 shop manual. The problem is I think the guy that built the car did not follow a diagram. There is a rats nest of wires behind the dash. I know that the wire that melted was red with a blue stripe and it was attached to the "s" connection on the solenoid. I followed it and it went to a butt connector on the neutral safety switch on the quarter stick. It also seems to go inside a wiring harness that goes to the steering column. I am wondering if it has something to do with when you turn on the key. I looked last night but the wires seemed to be fine. Do you think that the MSD box would work if the problem is the ignition switch?

    Tom
    Hidden Content 1970 Cougar, 351C-AUS 2V


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  5. #4
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    Tom, I have a 69 wiring diagram in front of me. The only diff between 69 & 70 is the ignition on the column. The red-blue wire does go from S on solenoid thru the nuetral safety switch to the S on the ignition switch.

    This means that the wire should only be hot during start. For it to melt in the short start cycle, there must be mucho current going thru it. Sounds like a short somewhere (in the shifter, the column, or @ the solenoid) that could be causing this. Check to see if there's voltage on the red-blue wire when the ignition switch is in the ON position. It should read 0 unless the ignition is in START.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ca2stay
    Tom, I have a 69 wiring diagram in front of me. The only diff between 69 & 70 is the ignition on the column. The red-blue wire does go from S on solenoid thru the nuetral safety switch to the S on the ignition switch.

    This means that the wire should only be hot during start. For it to melt in the short start cycle, there must be mucho current going thru it. Sounds like a short somewhere (in the shifter, the column, or @ the solenoid) that could be causing this. Check to see if there's voltage on the red-blue wire when the ignition switch is in the ON position. It should read 0 unless the ignition is in START.
    Jeff,

    Thanks. I think I did the damage when I crossed the solenoid posts with a screwdriver to start the car. I should check and see if there is still a neutral safety switch on the transmission as well and check those wires. I am starting to get that feeling that my girlfriend is tired of me working on the car and not paying attention to anything else but I want it ready for next weekend dang it!!

    Tom
    Hidden Content 1970 Cougar, 351C-AUS 2V


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  7. #6
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    I'm still not sure that the red-blue wire should've melted when you crossed the post since the ignition switch shouldn't have been in the START mode - just in the ON position. Since the red-blue wire is only hot when the ignition is in START, then the wire should've been OPEN and therefore not drawn any current to cause it to melt. That's why I thought there might be a short. Next time you cross the post to remote start, remove the red-blue wire from the solenoid since you're by-passing this circuit anyways. The good news is that if the wire melted, it probably only melted back to the point of the short (assuming there is one). It is one way to trace a short - although an ugly way.

    BTW, I have a number of wiring harnesses here @ the house and a lot of red-blue wire lying around. If you want to replace red-blue w/red-blue let me know.

    Also, that red-blue wire goes back thru the harness around the front of the car up into the fuse panel and then over to the nuetral safety switch and then up to the ignition. Hopefully you didn't melt insulation on any other wires in the harness.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ca2stay
    Hopefully you didn't melt insulation on any other wires in the harness.
    That would be a miracle but then again we are talking about my luck so the whole harness is probably melted together . Thanks for all the info though it gives me something to start at that makes some sense to me. I have never seen a fuse box in my car hopefully it is that simple.

    Tom
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  9. #8
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    Tom,

    I had a rat's nest too, I took the harness out of the car and cleaned it up. It plugs in behind the kick panels on both sides and the few plugs by the steering column and your gear selector indicator light. Just remember to label the wires if you do. You could take it out to inspect and clean up a lot easier and maybe quicker. Like Jeff stated, you could run without the S wire since it is just for the start circuit. You would just have to bump the engine over with a screwdriver or a remote switch. We have started cars many times that way without a meltdown. Also check your voltage to the selenoid, distributor, and MSD. There may be a fuse feeding the MSD that you blew too witch is separate than the 5 fuses these simple cars had (at least the 67). If you don't have spark at the plugs, check for spark out of the coil, if still no spark then voltage at the coil, selenoid, and don't forget a possible key switch problem.

    Hope it works out because I know the pain you are feeling. But you still have a week so take it slow and you'll find it. Just follow the system.

    Vinnie

  10. #9
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    You also might want to go to your local Radio Shack and purchase a can or 2 of Control/Contact Cleaner & Lubricant. I spray it on corroded connections and contacts & it literally cleans it up w/o any elbow grease. I cleaned up the old fuse panel and sprayed it on the contacts in the back of the panel. The panel is held together w/a bolt in the center located between the brake pedal and emergency brake pedal up on the firewall. PITA to get to. Unbolt and pull the fuse panel and you'll see the light green pins/sockets. You'll also see a lot of them black or green w/corrosion.

  11. #10
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    Holy Moly

    I went home during lunch and found out that my car does have a fuse box and there is one blown 20A fuse. I just went to Kragen and picked up a few fuses. I am crossing my fingers and hoping it is just this simple. I think that I found where the wires were shorting out. I had an exposed wire on the quarter stick neutral safety switch that was connected to the red/blue wire that was melted. Please oh Cougar G-d let this be the problem.

    Tom
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  12. #11
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    Hey Vinnie,

    The 69's and 70's are WAAAY more complex than 67's. We have a whopping 7 fuses - one of which is a SPARE (really, it goes no where). woo hoo :-D

    BTW, if every circuit was @ max, the vehicle would draw 108 AMPS. A neat trick since the stock ALT is 55 AMPS.

    Jeff

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