Elroy said:
Some thoughts:
Yes, MT is a little shorter. You might want to inquire about cost difference between shortening an existing shaft or having one fabricated. By the time they cut, weld, replace u-joints and balance, you're getting close to a new one. I believe I paid $30-$40 more for new one than having the old one fixed - plus you get that spanking new look....
The shop I have used in the past quote: $275 for a new one, $40 to change an end, $40 to balance, cheaper to fix up a used one in the case of this shop anyway.
Elroy said:
One thing to consider: take the actual measurement. If the third member was ever replaced, the pinion yoke might be a little longer/shorter - depending on what the member was pulled from.
Original differential, changing center section but believe yoke is the same size, so MT shaft should be correct. BTW, amazing that there were 4 driveshaft lengths in 69 Cougar, all within a 9/16" range of length. Then there are thr rubber coupled versions which (as of yet) are not differentiated from the solid ones. Will check fit before doing anything. Original FMX driveshaft will be starting point for MT since my original MT driveshaft was modified to sit in front of a 8 3/4" Mopar rear.
Elroy said:
If you plan on using a console, the auto consoles work just fine. There is a difference between factory 4sp and auto consoles, but I haven't had a problem with either one of mine, and they were switched out long ago...People have claimed you need the 4sp console, but I haven't found that to be the case, either factory shifter or Hurst Comp +.
Yep, using AT console, actually insert is the only thing different, but not different enough to bother getting a MT one (unless the chrome on mine is too rough).
Elroy said:
David Kee (I believe
www.davidkee.com) is an excellent vendor for tranny parts, such as yokes.
http://www.4speedtoploaders.com/ is the correct link. There are two 28 spline yokes, a 1310 and a 1330, maybe this the OD of the yoke? Have an email into Dave on this.
Elroy said:
I've converted two 4speeds from FMX's. It's relatively easy - with the two hardest pieces being aligning the hole (and drilling/cutting) the firewall for the clutch rod and getting the right mounting bracket for the shifter - it's that easy - if you have the parts.
What did you do about driveshafts in the ones you did?
I found the firewall actually has a dimple for the clutch rod punch out, so that should be relatively simple, hope to find and use a greenlee chassis punch to get that done, better than using a unibit or what have you.
On the shifter, have a complete comp+ setup w/brackets, should be all set. Wouldn't think of using an original, too sloppy (originality not a great concern with this resto). Have all the parts from a previous car.
One more question (since we've gotten into the nuts and bolts of the changeover here). I have not verified this for sure yet, but it appears that the threads (5/16" rivnuts?) for the chassis side Z Bar pivot may not be there on this AT car. Haven't gotten a good look yet (dirt, grease and engine still in), but thought I saw an empty hex hole in the frame rail. Hope I am wrong and this was something else (not the pivot bolts holes). If I am not wrong, anyone know of a source for correct 5/16" threaded frame fasteners? If not, I am looking at some sort of weld a nut in and grind down to flush...
Thanks Rod.
Bob