My Roller Paint Job [Archive] - Classic Cougar Forums

: My Roller Paint Job



Davemutt
November 12th, 2009, 09:39 PM
Well I'm wrapping up my roller paint job I started last spring. I know people are curious about this so feel free to ask questions and leave comments.

I've had this car since 1997. When I bought it I knew nothing about Cougars. I was looking for a '69-'73 Camaro or Firebird but I couldn't find a decent car within my budget. This car was so much nicer than any of the GM cars I had been looking at that I paid the asking price without hesitation. The car is a standard model with the options of vinyl roof, auto, PS, PB, AM radio, and deluxe wheel covers. It had 59K when I bought it and I've added about 10K since then. Mechanically, its pretty well sorted out, but it had alot of dents and dings and a few bubbles starting under the vinyl top.http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/7365/img0127w.jpg
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/9659/img0128wc.jpg

cougarlover29
November 12th, 2009, 09:46 PM
I saw my first post of a roller paint job the other day... what is a roller paint job? Does it involve using a standard roller?

Davemutt
November 12th, 2009, 09:47 PM
The top came off easily enough. I just grabbed an edge and started pulling. The paint on the roof was very nice, but it was covered with glue. The vinyl is not going back on and I hoped to save the paint for a base coat. I experimented quite a bit, but nothing really worked to remove the glue. Finally I tried oven cleaner which removed the glue but took a lot of paint off also. Maybe I left it on too long.:confused:

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/5840/img0314iy.jpg
This was on the sail panel under the top. "V" for vinyl?
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/8060/img0316c.jpg

Davemutt
November 12th, 2009, 09:52 PM
I saw my first post of a roller paint job the other day... what is a roller paint job? Does it involve using a standard roller?

The best roller for this is the small 4" one with dense foam designed for smooth finishes. You can pick them up pretty much anywhere. I got mine at my Ace Hardware.

This method is detail in three very long threads on the Moparts message board. Most of those guys use Rustoleum and it ends up costing about $50. I used topside boat paint so I spent a little more but not much.:)

jcbingcougar
November 12th, 2009, 09:53 PM
Hey Dave,
You never mentioned you were doing this. I'm anxious to see how it turns out. Did you stick with the original light ivy gold or did you change the color?

Davemutt
November 12th, 2009, 09:58 PM
The worst rust was behind the rear wheel on the driver's side The car had some dirt in the trunk extension when I bought it and rust had started working its magic.

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/6610/dscf0027i.jpg

I poked around with a screwdrive to see how bad it was.
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8783/dscf0026y.jpg

Davemutt
November 12th, 2009, 10:01 PM
Hey Dave,
You never mentioned you were doing this. I'm anxious to see how it turns out. Did you stick with the original light ivy gold or did you change the color?

Well I had decided I would paint the car bright yellow and dye the interior black. In the end, I decided the ivy interior was too nice to mess with so its staying and I painted the car white.

Davemutt
November 12th, 2009, 10:08 PM
Of course I also had some rust under the vinyl.

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/1339/img0318f.jpg

Some small holes in the bottom of the window channel. My rear window seal was bad so that didn't help matters.
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/1120/dscf0010b.jpg

This is the worst section here. It looks bad, but other than the holes it was very solid.
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/1796/dscf0008mg.jpg

Davemutt
November 12th, 2009, 10:13 PM
The other corner wasn't as bad.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/4478/dscf0006oq.jpg

Inside the cowl looked pretty good. http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/4311/dscf0013ws.jpg

Davemutt
November 12th, 2009, 10:16 PM
Bottom of the trunk. You can see a lot of rust pitting but the steel's pretty thick here so it was still solid.

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/2279/dscf0011z.jpg


The top of the trunk didn't get much paint, but it was still pretty clean.
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/851/dscf0013n.jpg

Davemutt
November 12th, 2009, 10:25 PM
Paint was thin on the bottom of the fenders but it wasn't too rusty.

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/8586/dscf0035n.jpg

I'm going to try to organize my pictures and upload some more this weekend. I hoped to document this better, but my first camera broke during dissasembly and I lost alot of pics. Also, I get busy and forget to take pictures.:)

dmac
November 13th, 2009, 05:12 AM
Bottom of the trunk. You can see a lot of rust pitting but the steel's pretty thick here so it was still solid.

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/2279/dscf0011z.jpg



The top of the trunk didn't get much paint, but it was still pretty clean.
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/851/dscf0013n.jpg
Man Im so jealous!!! what size rims are they,14's or 15's thanks

Davemutt
November 13th, 2009, 09:16 AM
Man Im so jealous!!! what size rims are they,14's or 15's thanks

Those are 14x7 on the rear and 14x6 on the front. I got them at the swap meet. I ended up with Mopar wheels on the front because the Ford wheels I got wouldn't clear the disc brake calipers.

I think this car would look better with 15's. Since its such a low optioned car, I'm thinking about steelys with Mercury dog dish caps to continue the theme. Would that be too plain for a Cougar?

dmac
November 13th, 2009, 10:31 AM
I think it would look cool if the rears were widened out to about 8" with the steelies and caps. One of my many thouhts.

badcatt
November 13th, 2009, 12:00 PM
Hay Dave,
I have the thred over at the Mopar site saved.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

I can't wait to see your car in person. Will you have it at Port Angeles next spring?

Davemutt
November 13th, 2009, 02:20 PM
Hay Dave,
I have the thred over at the Mopar site saved.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

I can't wait to see your car in person. Will you have it at Port Angeles next spring?

That's the thread Neil! Its actually grown to three threads now. I spent most of a weekend last winter reading through it and taking notes.

I'll definitely be at Port Angeles with it. I thought I would be done by Prowl last year, but I underestimated the amount of bodywork needed and overstimated how quickly I would do it.:) I knew the paint would be time consuming, but the bodywork and prep really set me back.

The paint is done. I finished painting in the summer, but I needed a break from it. I'm now halfway done with the wetsanding, then I just need to put everything back together and polish it. My garage isn't heated so I'm trying to get things done before it gets too cold.

Davemutt
November 13th, 2009, 07:20 PM
Some more of the car.

The passenger side only showed surface rust in this area. Yes, that's bondo up there.:(

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/9812/dscf0039.jpg


The car had been in an accident before I got it and it has a patch going all the way from the center of the wheel to the door jamb. The bondo appeared pretty thick and a verticle seam was visible under the paint. The repair could have been done better, but it was holding up well so I decided to leave it. I ended up doing a lot of block sanding in this area before I was satisfied.

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/7154/dscf0028s.jpg

Davemutt
November 13th, 2009, 07:27 PM
Here's the backside of the fenders. The paint was falling off where the metal was galvanized so I removed what was left along with the rust. IMO, Ford could have used more undercoating here so I added some.

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/3400/dscf0045db.jpg


http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/4656/dscf0051z.jpg

The rear panel is also galvanized so the factory paint was also flaking off here behind the tail lights.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/7066/dscf0005l.jpg

Davemutt
November 13th, 2009, 08:16 PM
Here's some condensed versions of this method if you don't want to read the whole Moparts thread.

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

http://carpainting.wetpaint.com/page/Rollering+Interlux+Brightside+Polyurethane+Paint

http://rollyourcar.com/method.aspx

I decided early on that I wanted to paint my car myself and when I read about this I decided I wanted to try it. I've heard that prep is 90% of a good paint job. I've also heard that the final wetsand and buff is 90% of a good paint job. That's 180% so I figured the method of application must not be too critical.:)

My car is a driver and my goal was to have paint that looks as good as the factory job. My factory paint was thick in spots, thin in spots, had some orange peel here and there and even a couple of runs so I figured I could do better.

This method is very labor intensive, but I knew that going in. The appeal to me was that I could work on it as I had time on evenings or weekends and I wouldn't have to deal with fumes or overspray. Although its time consuming, its also easy once you get the hang of it. I lost count, but I think I have between 10 and 12 coats on the car. Each coat took about 3 hours if I was working with a helper or 5 hours if I was working alone. The accepted practice is to sand after every two coats, but I sanded after every coat so this added to the time I spent. I probably averaged about three hours each sanding session. So with each coat taking about eight hours total, I probably spent more than 80 hours just putting the paint on. This is a lot slower than most of the guys on Moparts. If I hadn't sanded so much, I could have gotten by with fewer coats. Most people only need 6 or 8 coats with the boat paint I used so that might work out to as few as 40 hours.

The time wasn't really an issue for me because I don't have a deadline and this project gives me an excuse to turn off the TV. It was a fun project and I'd do it again, but its not for everyone. Some probably don't have the patience for this method. I wouldn't try it on a daily driver or if I had a deadline I needed to meet. It can be done quickly, but you probably won't be happy with your results if you rush it. Also, it doesn't work with metallic colors. The paint I used is a urethane designed for boats so it should be durable. It dries with a high gloss and I think it looks great, but it probably won't have the shiney wet look of a modern clearcoat paint.

Davemutt
November 16th, 2009, 08:36 PM
Before I began, I washed the car 2X with a scotchbrite and wiped everything down with wax and grease remover. I also hit the door hinge area with brake cleaner to remove the 40 year old grease.

I removed all trim, plus the trunk lid and fenders. I planned to remove the hood so I could paint the underside, but I was running out of room in the garage and I figured it would be easier to line up the fenders later with the hood in place. I left the doors on because I could paint all around them with the fenders off. (Also I remember how long it took me to align them when I did the bushings.:))

The original hood was destroyed by a branch in a wind storm. I thought this one was straight until I started sanding. I don't know what happened here but there was a series of shallow waves down each side. They weren't deep enough for me to try to work out so I went to work with the filler.

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6144/dscf0016d.jpg

This came highly recommended and I have to say it sands nice. I hadn't done bodywork before so I probably spent at least 30 hours on that hood. I kept applying too much or too little filler in spots. When I thought I was done, I would leave it and inspect it a few days later to find I needed to do some more work.
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/6624/dscf0012dz.jpg

This is the sanding board I used. This helped me find dents I couldn't see and get my filler flat.

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/6304/dscf0013r.jpg

The roof had a few shallow dents. Fortunately they weren't deep as I wanted to leave the headliner in and couldn't access the backside. Most of the paint on the roof came off with the vinyl glue.
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/1121/dscf0028d.jpg

This was the worst damage. I wanted to replace this fender, but couldn't find one and was in a hurry to get painting. The PO had hit something hard enough to push the bumper into the grille and fender. Its difficult to get to the backside of this area, but I began working it out with wooden blocks and a prybar. Then I laid it down, stuck my foot in there and stepped on it. This left enough room to awkwardly work the rest with the hammer. There's too much filler here and I'll probably replace this if I ever paint it again, but it didn't look bad in the end.
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/1069/dscf0029p.jpg

Where di all those door dings come from?:( I was able to get to most of these easily from inside the door. It looks like a lot of filler, but I don't think its thicker than 1/4" anywhere here. For some reason, my B pillars were also very wavy. Maybe that's why they put the vinyl top on.
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/2161/dscf0024n.jpg

Davemutt
November 16th, 2009, 08:56 PM
Time to get rid of the rust!

http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/4843/dscf0008z.jpg


I don't know how to weld, but I wanted to do my own repairs and keep this project low-buck so I used panel adhesive. This is only for non-structural repairs and I'm confident my patches aren't going anywhere.

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/350/dscf00031.jpg

I bonded a patch from behind and another smaller one in the bottom of the trunk area. It would have been better to create a flange and make the patch flush with the surrounding sheet metal. That way the repair would have needed less filler.

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2774/dscf0031cj.jpg

For the trim holes left by the vinyl top, I created a small valley around each hole, put a metal patch on the back, then filled the valley. If I had just filled the trim hole, the outline might show under the paint. I wouldn't have taken this shortcut if I were putting an expensive paint job on the car - the proper way to do this is to weld up the holes.

Davemutt
November 16th, 2009, 09:16 PM
Both valance panels needed a little work. These dents were shallow, but I recall spending a lot of time trying to get them right.

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/9544/dscf0037je.jpg


I brushed thinned Rustoleum primer on every area with bare metal or filler, which ended up being much of the car.

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/2133/dscf0040gc.jpg

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/5922/dscf0038f.jpg

The rustoleum was asnded with 600 before applying Brightside's basecoat. Here's the products I used.

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/9715/dscf0011cm.jpg

Here's what I painted with. I began with a shallow tray and I kept spilling paint. This bucket which is very deep and has a nice handle worked much better for me. The paint is applied with the roller and the bubbles can be removed with either the foam bush or another roller. The foam brush was also used for tighter areas like the A pillers and door jambs. The small bristle brush was just for had to reach places like the rain gutters. From what I read, the brushed can be kept in the freezer and used again, but they're fairly inexpensive so I used new burshes with each coat.
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/1042/dscf0014h.jpg

dmac
November 16th, 2009, 09:23 PM
Good luck man, I hope it works out. Maybe the sanding process will give you strong forearms, Popeye-ish.hehe

Davemutt
November 16th, 2009, 09:25 PM
Sorry I don't have any action shots but when I started painting, I forgot all about the camera. Here's some shots after the paint has dried before any wetsanding or buffing. Those that have tried both Rustoleum and Brightside claim the Brightside has a higher gloss so that what I went with and I wasn't dissapointed.

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/5567/dscf0015n.jpg

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/5011/dscf0013g.jpg

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/797/dscf0018i.jpg

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/7784/dscf0007k.jpg

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/6870/dscf0012q.jpg

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/9852/dscf0016xe.jpg

Davemutt
November 16th, 2009, 09:32 PM
I was in a hurry to get the underside of the trunk done so I applied 5 thicker coats without any sanding. You can see how glossy this paint dries. (No its not wet - I finished painting this a couple of months ago and took the picture last weekend.) What you can't see is the uneveness and all the trash in the paint. I used a tack rag before each paint session, but still ended up with all kinds of trash and this was the most frustrating to me. At some point, I may sand this out and apply another coat, but for now it looks OK for the inside of the trunk.

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/2918/dscf0001t.jpg

Davemutt
November 16th, 2009, 09:42 PM
Here's some shots after colorsanding. Early on, I was sanding with 600 grit between coats, then 800, then 1,000. I became worried when I could see sanding marks from the 1,000 under what I thought would be my final coats. The paint goes on so thin, its very translucent - almost like a clear coat with some color in it. So I did my three final coats with no sanding between. This left me with a lot of orange peel in some places, a good deal of debris and a couple of runs. So I'm colorsanding with 800, 1,000, 1500, and 2,000. If I had been sanding between coats, my color sanding could have probably started with 1,500.

I hated to sand off all of that gloss, but hopefully the buffing will bring it back.

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/2034/dscf0009nh.jpg

http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/3977/dscf00091.jpg

http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/5096/dscf00051z.jpg

D'oh! I'm really trying to stay away from the edges, but this one snuck up on me.
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/4461/dscf00041q.jpg

Davemutt
November 16th, 2009, 10:07 PM
This is what I'm using for the colorsanding. I'm using the hard rubber block with the 800 and 1,000 grit to flatten out the orange peal and remove debris. The gray one is a more flexible foam thats good for areas with some contour like doors and fenders. I'm using the flexible thin blue pad with 1,500 and 2,000 grit.

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/5714/dscf0022ck.jpg


Here's the roof after colorsanding. You can see from the reflection of the light that its not very flat yet. The roof was the hardest for me to paint and I ended up with the most orange peal here. I would start doing one side including the A pillar, B pillar down to the fender line and the area around the rear window and trunk, then rush to start the other side before the paint started drying so I would be left with a seam in the middle of the roof. Because I was always in a hurry , I usually put the paint on too thick here which led to the orange peal. The verticle surfaces came out much better because each panel is small enough to work with and since they are verticle you have to keep the paint thin to avoid runs.
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/5424/dscf0007ek.jpg

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/7923/dscf0006d.jpg




I'm not doing much with the engine compartment at this time but I decided to paint it while I had the fenders off. My cowl is supposed to have overspray but not that much! :eek: Oh well, I never said this was a restoration. It would have been much easier to do it all black Eliminator style.
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7066/dscf0029jm.jpg

So that's where I'm at now. I finished most of the colorsanding last weekend, but I'm going to redo that area of the roof to see if I can get it flatter. Then I want to paint the black along the rocker seams before I put the fenders back on. After I get the fenders and trunk back on, I'll break out the buffer.:)

Davemutt
November 16th, 2009, 10:12 PM
Good luck man, I hope it works out. Maybe the sanding process will give you strong forearms, Popeye-ish.hehe

To be honest, I don't really mind sanding, but last weekend really wore me out. It was in the low 40's here and I spent half the day kneeling on wet concrete while I did the doors and rear fenders. Its starting to come together and I'm motivated to get the car back on the road now.:burnout:

HodgePodge
November 17th, 2009, 12:18 AM
Hey it's looking great!!!

How much pre-kote primer and topside paint did you end up using. I have three quarts of paint and one gallon of primer to do mine in the spring.

Thanks for taking the time to post your experience and results, it is encouraging for those of us thinking/planning for this.

One thing though, the Brightside you show earlier is a yellow, but the car is white....what happened?

trikar
November 17th, 2009, 12:29 AM
I look forward to seeing the finished product.

I have done done two complete cars and almost finished with a third one as well as doing just the roof on another one. All were done with the Rust-Oleum. I read through your thread and noticed you mentioned you were having issues with orange peel. I found very early on that the two things that caused any orange peel for me were the paint to mineral spirits ratio being to thick and the quality of the foam rollers. I use a 60/40 paint to mineral spirits ratio and only use a quality Fine dense foam roller and I do not have issues with orange peel. I would think the ratio might be different depending on climate so always test your mix before using it on the finished product. I live at 5,600 foot elevation with very low humidity which allows me to put on multiple coats in one day as long as the temperature is warm and I sand between every two coats. I have never used the Brightside but I also have heard good things about it. It might be that the Brightside requires more thinning than the Rust-Oleum but since I have never tried it I don't know. I might try the Brightside on the '72 Ranchero Squire which Is the next one up on my list to paint.

As for the dull finish after sanding it will brighten up even better than before sanding after you polish it out.

Here are the 1973 Ranchero Squire Cobra Jet and 1973 Cougar Convertible I painted using the Rust-Oleum.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/768121/fullsize/1973-ranchero-squire-cobra-jet-rfv-ressized.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765149/fullsize/1973-cougar-convertible-left-side-view-resized.jpg

Davemutt
November 17th, 2009, 09:38 AM
Hey it's looking great!!!

How much pre-kote primer and topside paint did you end up using. I have three quarts of paint and one gallon of primer to do mine in the spring.

Thanks for taking the time to post your experience and results, it is encouraging for those of us thinking/planning for this.

One thing though, the Brightside you show earlier is a yellow, but the car is white....what happened?

Thanks, you're welcome to stop by and check it out if you're ever in the area.

I used probably 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart of the pre-kote and this was actually my worst experience during the whole job. I figured I would lay down one thick coat of the pre-kote to cover the brown primer and just do a little extra sanding. I barely thinned it and it dried with a lot of texture. I noticed this as I was painting but wasn't too concerned becuase the thinned Rustoleum I was putting on sanded so easily. Well this stuff is hard as a rock when it dries so the sanding I had to do here took a lot of extra time. The lesson I learned here is don't rush the painting process thinking it can be fixed with sanding. Also, if you take shortcuts on the sanding, the paint won't cover it. I just had to learn to focus on each task.

I think I used about 3 1/2 quarts of color, but I was sanding after each coat. I think if I had sanded every other coat, 3 quarts would have been plenty (and I would have finished much quicker).

I originally planned to paint the car yellow. My interior is ivy green and I thought I would dye it black. I bought the paint and dye but at the last minute wimped out. I wasn't confident I'd be happy with a dyed interior and this one is in pretty good condition so I didn't want to risk wrecking it. I then tried experimenting mixing yellow with white to find a color that would go with the interior, but couldn't get one I liked. Brightside has a couple of very nice off-white colors I also considered but I wanted a bright color so I decided on white.

Davemutt
November 17th, 2009, 09:50 AM
I look forward to seeing the finished product.

I have done done two complete cars and almost finished with a third one as well as doing just the roof on another one. All were done with the Rust-Oleum. I read through your thread and noticed you mentioned you were having issues with orange peel. I found very early on that the two things that caused any orange peel for me were the paint to mineral spirits ratio being to thick and the quality of the foam rollers. I use a 60/40 paint to mineral spirits ratio and only use a quality Fine dense foam roller and I do not have issues with orange peel. I would think the ratio might be different depending on climate so always test your mix before using it on the finished product. I live at 5,600 foot elevation with very low humidity which allows me to put on multiple coats in one day as long as the temperature is warm and I sand between every two coats. I have never used the Brightside but I also have heard good things about it. It might be that the Brightside requires more thinning than the Rust-Oleum but since I have never tried it I don't know. I might try the Brightside on the '72 Ranchero Squire which Is the next one up on my list to paint.

As for the dull finish after sanding it will brighten up even better than before sanding after you polish it out.

Here are the 1973 Ranchero Squire Cobra Jet and 1973 Cougar Convertible I painted using the Rust-Oleum.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/768121/fullsize/1973-ranchero-squire-cobra-jet-rfv-ressized.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765149/fullsize/1973-cougar-convertible-left-side-view-resized.jpg


You're cars came out great!

I never measured when I was thinning the paint. I just tried for the 2% milk consistency. I did my painting over a couple of months last summer and sometimes began in the morning and sometimes in the evenings after work so the conditions were never consistent and each coat was a new experience. I think my best coats were done when it was cooller - maybe in the low 60's. I had a couple that came out like glass and I would have loved to stop there but didn't have enough coverage at that time.

As I think about it, I believe the orange peel occurred on the warmer days. I would begin with the paint thinned out properly, but it would be evaporating and getting thicker as I painted. If I didn't watch this and keep thinning the paint it would get too thick.

dfwcatsclub
November 19th, 2009, 10:56 PM
I experimented quite a bit, but nothing really worked to remove the glue..
Late chiming in here. 3M adhesive remover peels it off in minutes...

jcbingcougar
May 4th, 2010, 12:12 PM
I saw Dave's car this weekend at the Port Angeles show and it looked great! Apparently others felt the same as Dave walked away with a class award. I was telling everyone he painted it with a roller and nobody could believe it. Good job, Dave.

Rewindcat
May 4th, 2010, 02:05 PM
I saw Dave's car this weekend at the Port Angeles show and it looked great! Apparently others felt the same as Dave walked away with a class award. I was telling everyone he painted it with a roller and nobody could believe it. Good job, Dave.
I looked at it only thinking it was a nice paint job. After Jeff mentioned "painted with a roller" I took another good look (actually 2 or 3). Very nicely done Dave. Great job.

badcatt
May 4th, 2010, 02:28 PM
As a lot of members here say, "This is worthless with out a Picture" So here it is from Port Angeles.
http://hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/hs279.snc3/28110_1316148509897_1416265771_30931989_3726217_n.jpg (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30931996&id=1416265771)

It looks very good in the picture. Looks great in person. To see more pictures from this show click on the picture and it will take you to my Facebook album.

1969XR7Vert
May 4th, 2010, 02:37 PM
Sounds like a helluva a lot of work, but will not argue with whatever gets you to a nice result! :beer:

jcbingcougar
May 4th, 2010, 07:14 PM
As a lot of members here say, "This is worthless with out a Picture" So here it is from Port Angeles. To see more pictures from this show click on the picture and it will take you to my Facebook album.
Hey Neal,
The link doesn't seem to be working.

badcatt
May 4th, 2010, 08:35 PM
If anyone eles is not able to just click on the picture and go to the rest of the Port Angeles show pictures I posted on Facebook try this link.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30931996&id=1416265771

Davemutt
May 4th, 2010, 09:38 PM
Here's one I took of some of the Cougars before it started raining. :uhoh:

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/7505/dscf0005f.jpg

Davemutt
May 4th, 2010, 09:50 PM
I'm not trying to be modest, but the paint job is really not as good as it looks down by the water on a bright day. There are a lot of problems, mostly on the hood and roof, but some panels came out pretty good so I'm confident I can pull this off. My motto is "If you want something done right, do it twice." At some point, I'll tune-up my bodywork, fix some rust I left in the doors, sand it down, and put some more paint on.

Here's a couple of close ups after polish and wax. I really like the gloss this paint has.

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/5701/dscf0003u.jpg

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/9650/dscf0002jk.jpg

Davemutt
May 4th, 2010, 10:03 PM
Here's my work area. Yes those are horse stalls next to the Cougar and they are full of dirt and horse#@!* and who knows what else. There's a single flourescent light over the hood of the Cougar and one small window on the opposite wall. I bought a couple of halogen lights at Sears and they helped but one died halfway through (that's why they were so inexpensive!). Besides being dark and dirty, my neighbor's house is 15 yards directly behind the barn. I'd like to learn how to do a traditional paint job someday, but it would be impossible here.

So, I'll be rolling it again but I do enjoy it. Most of the problems I have, I blame on poor lighting so I'll address that next time. Also I think I'll paint the backside of the fenders, hood, trunklid, doorjambs, etc then assemble the car prior to painting the exterior so I can move it outside to see better.

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/1153/dscf0007t.jpg
Shot at 2010-05-04

bosselim69
May 5th, 2010, 06:37 AM
Very nice line up of Cougars. I spent a couple of days in Port Angles on vacation in 2006 and really liked the town and surrounding area. Except for one bar with some rowdy long shore men that didn't want an outsider in there. :beer:



Here's one I took of some of the Cougars before it started raining. :uhoh:

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/7505/dscf0005f.jpg

Davemutt
May 22nd, 2010, 03:34 PM
The Cougar has some fangs now.

Before:
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/8334/dscf0011o.jpg
After:
http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/2931/dscf0013c.jpg

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/7205/dscf0015sw.jpg

Davemutt
May 22nd, 2010, 03:39 PM
Anyone know about the attachment point at the top of the bumper guard? It looks like I'm supposed to put a hole in the valiance but it seems secure enough with the two bolts on the bottom.

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6076/dscf0012dh.jpg

jcbingcougar
May 22nd, 2010, 07:34 PM
[QUOTE=Davemutt;416102]Anyone know about the attachment point at the top of the bumper guard? It looks like I'm supposed to put a hole in the valiance but it seems secure enough with the two bolts on the bottom./QUOTE]

Hey Dave, there is supposed to be a hole in the valance to fasten the top part down. I like the look with the bumper guards.

Davemutt
May 24th, 2010, 09:08 AM
Thanks Jeff. I had bumper guard envy when I saw your car at PA.:D Did your car come with them?

jcbingcougar
May 24th, 2010, 09:34 AM
Thanks Jeff. I had bumper guard envy when I saw your car at PA.:D Did your car come with them?No, I added them.

big bad blue
June 4th, 2010, 09:03 PM
There was a guy from Canada that painted a roadrunner with a roller and tremclad paint (rustoleum in U.S.). Painted and sanded three times. I think it turned out pretty good and he had like 275 bucks in it. I don't remember where I read this, may on the FE site.

Davemutt
June 23rd, 2010, 11:10 PM
I just noticed this last week. This is the right front fender extension and there's something weird going on under the paint. This was a replacement piece and I remember hitting it with rattle-can primer at one point. I'm guessing I didn't remove all the old primer before I painted this. So far this seems to be an isolated incident, but we'll see...

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/3730/dscf00011v.jpg

Wheels and tires are on. I pulled my receipts and my old tires were purchased 4/98 so I felt I was pushing my luck with them.

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/9912/dscf0016oi.jpg

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/6857/dscf0014re.jpg

Davemutt
June 23rd, 2010, 11:23 PM
Hood scoop getting painted. I wasn't going to put the scoop on, but the car was starting to look like a little too much an economy model with the dog dish wheels.

I'd usually use a roller to apply the paint, but this area is so small, I just slopped it on with a brush.

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/3470/dscf00012f.jpg

Spread it out with a roller.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/3650/dscf00022.jpg

Let it set up for a couple of minutes and use the roller to smooth out the bubbles.

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/4411/dscf00032b.jpg

Davemutt
June 23rd, 2010, 11:34 PM
I'm also working on the sound system. Where I live, I barely get two stations on the stock AM so I'm going to put in something a little more modern. Here's the reproduction bezel getting hacked up.

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/9326/dscf0017kz.jpg

Random cat shot. She was hanging out while I tied to diagnose my door latch. This one has me baffled. Ever since I put the car back together, I can't unlock the passenger door. All the springs are intact, so I'm guessing one is stretched. I finally gave up and I'll be looking for another latch.

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/9332/dscf0011jy.jpg

Sleepycat
June 23rd, 2010, 11:43 PM
Even with the imperfections, I'd say you pulled it off!
Nice Cat! :ylsup:

jcbingcougar
June 24th, 2010, 05:19 AM
Looks good, Dave. You don't often see painted steel wheels and dog dish hub caps on a Cougar these days so it's a nice change from what everyone else is doing.

Ron67
June 24th, 2010, 05:50 AM
Love the look of the dog dish caps..

Davemutt
June 24th, 2010, 09:02 AM
Thanks for the kind words everyone.

I'll take some better pics outdoors this weekend. Right now my seatback is getting welded up. It has always leaned to one side and I figured I had the broken hinge. I finally took it apart a couple of days ago and the left side is seperated near the base. I didn't want to remove the upholstery and my welder said he could work around it so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

67MercCat
July 4th, 2010, 06:07 PM
Brilliant...just brilliant. patience and experimentation...great job

dmac
July 5th, 2010, 08:00 PM
The pic of your car with the painted steelies and hub caps is REALLY COOL! Love the look, what size rims on the rear

Davemutt
July 6th, 2010, 09:21 AM
15x7 front with 215/65/15 and 15x8 rear with 255/60/15.

When I get my seat back from my welder, I'll take a few pictures outside.

Davemutt
July 8th, 2010, 02:17 PM
Here's the completed bezel. I saw someone post this on VMF and it worked well. After opening the front all the way across and milling out the sides, a din head unit will barely squeeze in. The cage will not fit through the opening, so the front of the cage is cut off at an angle matching the back of the bezel.

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/6729/dscf0005ud.jpg

With everything assembled, the head unit is nice and tight. The weight is supported by the cage resting on the back of the bezel.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/7923/dscf0006d.jpg

Here's the receiver in the car. There's a trim plate that goes around the receiver that still needs to go on. The dash did not need to be modified at all and I avoided cutting the wiring in the dash. I did have to slightly trim the back of the the two plastic trim pieces that sit on the sides.

http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/4400/dscf0008g.jpg

I mounted two 3 1/2" speakers under the dash. Someone said you could use 4", but these were pretty tight. I'm using adapters to mount 6x9's in the back so I won't have to cut there. I'm probably sacrificing sound quality some, but it will be 10x better than it was.

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/5448/dscf0001j.jpg

Here's some of the car's history that I found on the ledge above the heater controls.

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/4687/dscf0005uo.jpg

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/7150/dscf0006rp.jpg

cougar_nut1968
July 8th, 2010, 02:46 PM
Love the hub caps and I think it will look great once you get the scoop on Dave. Cant wait to see it at prowl.

Chris

Moms-car
July 8th, 2010, 02:51 PM
Diggin the wheels as well. I grew up in Renton. My sister lives in Gig Harbor. I'll have to plan my next visit around the next cougar show in the area. Been to PT, but never PA. Good job on the car!

Davemutt
July 9th, 2010, 09:02 AM
Love the hub caps and I think it will look great once you get the scoop on Dave. Cant wait to see it at prowl.

Chris

Thanks Chris. I'm looking forward to the Prowl this year. I can't remember the last time I've had my car there.

Davemutt
July 9th, 2010, 09:08 AM
Diggin the wheels as well. I grew up in Renton. My sister lives in Gig Harbor. I'll have to plan my next visit around the next cougar show in the area. Been to PT, but never PA. Good job on the car!

Thanks. I grew up in Renton also. The PA show is a great event, but its usually in late April or early May so the weather doesn't always cooperate. Another good event for Cougars is the Cascade Cougar Club Prowl in Issaquah near the end of July.