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Factory Correct Paints?

6K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  snakepit 
#1 ·
Hi all, I am in the process of restoring my 69 XR7 and am to the point now where I need some help with getting the factory paint schemes, or metal finishes, correct for my ride. I’m looking for the factory correct paint colors for the following areas / pieces of the car…<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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· Engine compartment<o:p></o:p>
· Under side of body / frame<o:p></o:p>
· Real Axle / suspension / brakes<o:p></o:p>
· Front suspension / steering / disc brakes<o:p></o:p>
· Engine accessories<o:p></o:p>
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Also who makes a good quality paint for restoration purposes? I’ve seen names like PPG, Eastwood… I’m not overly concerned about the TYPE of paint (urethane vs. epoxy vs. ??) but I want to get the COLOR correct with a quality paint that will last another 40+ years. Paint type w/ color code #'s would be helpful too. Along w/ any tips on prep and equipment. Thanks in advance.<o:p></o:p>
 
#2 ·
PPG paint

I still haven't found the 'Holy Grail' of paint restoration tips for the 69 cougar yet, but from what I've been reading, the PPG DP74LF (red oxide) seems to be pretty close to the factory color for the underside. Has anyone used this before? Any feedback from a judge? Any tips on painting w/ the epoxy primer? Thanks
 
#3 · (Edited)
I still haven't found the 'Holy Grail' of paint restoration tips for the 69 cougar yet, but from what I've been reading, the PPG DP74LF (red oxide) seems to be pretty close to the factory color for the underside. Has anyone used this before? Any feedback from a judge? Any tips on painting w/ the epoxy primer? Thanks

IF your doing a 69 most of the cars were not shot with a red oxide color on the floors (though front frame rails and inner fender panels were. But where, how much and final look will depend on when and where your car was built.

If the car was originally a red oxide car (seen in 69 during a couple of small windows of time) DP 74 will be fine though you can tint it a little browner or with a little white for another version for something closer. The firewall forward was shot at a different station and often with a slightly different color so you might want to reserve a little. Should go on smooth and slightly shinny as an epoxy

Wear a good mask

The black engine compartment black (and wheel well depending on when and where the car was built) is something restorers seem to differ on. Some like to us DP90, Hot rod black, Trim black or other home made formulas

As for suspension - most of this as well as steering was not originally painted and painting to reproduce the natural look is becoming unpopular though it can be done using a combination of rattle cans or you can use gun bluing to reproduce the look


Engine compartment items as well as brackets were often different tones of semi-gloss black. The differences come from some being dipped (produces a shinier finish) while others were sprayed. Also the finishes differed due to different suppliers so many owners are now attempting to present various different tones and shines on all the parts. Also remember if this is a Dearborn car you will need to mix up (or purchase) some slop gray for many of the brackets

Hope this helps a little
 
#6 ·
My car was a Dearborn product, built in May '69 i believe. Between the heavy undercoating, road grime and the overspray of factory Burnt Orng Met. underneath, i was guessing that the bottom was red oxide. There seem to be a lot of photos of "restored" mustangs & cougars alike w/ the Red Oxide finish down there. It does look good! Any other guesses on the correct color info for a May 69 Dearborn car is appreciated .

I'm planning on going w/ the DP90LF for the engine bay paint. I guess I'll have to mess around w/ the epoxy + additives to get the right sheen. Any tips?
 
#7 ·
Here is what I based my "guess" on - as well as seeing thousands of other originals ;)

Here is a few scans of the color from that general period.

Have another couple dozen samples (car from cars) from through out the year showing slightly lighter and darker of the same basic color(also have a 30K original car built here at the end of April - same similar color)










And a restored spring Dearborn car with a similar "matched" color (jade black overspray)





Hope this helps
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the pics. Are all of those 1969 cars? What color / paint type did you use for the Grey?

It was a custom mix to a floor sample. I've recently had a batch of slop (used for many brackets, supports and mounts on 69-70 Dearborn built cars) and the color can be similar. For that I started with a late model VW dark gray and tinted it green and blue for two different final colors


It almost looks a little blue in the photos.
The final color was the results of left over exterior body color being dumped into the batch of epoxy primer to save dollars. More blue cars the shift before the bluer the final color. Most often we see a green or blue tint

My Late April cars floor has a purple tint with some metallic in in - for example
 
#17 ·
Dont do slop grey in PPG DP primer..it will come out too flat and will dull over time).i love the primer for its purpose, but you can get a gallon of single stage urethane custom mixed to "slop grey" cheaper than a gallon of the epoxy primer....take Jeffs advise, use the VW color and have the paint store tint until it looks similar in teh light to jeffs examples (or your own floors examples..) if you have a shiny batch grey part you can even take it to the PPG dealer and have the use the "Prophet" (their company Spectro-gizmo that takes a "picture " of the color and reads its ingredients) to read the color and spit out a formula,,,of course you will want to use a good self etching primer underneath, but you can probably buy the self etching primer/surfacer, and the paint cheaper than a gallon of DDP with hardener etc...and will look much better whe trying the slop grey....
this way you essentially have a exterior "paint job" underneath, instead of just a sealer...

on a side note i do the same with engine bay black...i use ford black code UA (used for many years on up through the late 90s) i buy it in single stage urethane, and use the PPG flattener toner additive , mixed per the MSDS sheet to their eggshell mixing guidelines, and it is a very very good match to the original semigloss...has just a hint of shine, bit over all is very flat....i dont like teh primers for this becouse they will dull over time, and will show every water spot they get on them....you cant detail the primers either as easy as the Urethane paint....my 2 cents of course...if you would like specific PPG part number for the flattener i can get it for you....
 
#18 ·
Dont do slop grey in PPG DP primer..it will come out too flat and will dull over time).i love the primer for its purpose, but you can get a gallon of single stage urethane custom mixed to "slop grey" cheaper than a gallon of the epoxy primer................

Experiences differ - have undercarriages here that were painted with DP with some exterior (no where near 50% since it was a red oxide car) and after 18 years no dulling. It is shot smooth and is still pretty glossy. This was the pre - LF DP primer sealers

But have done the exterior color also

IMHO both work based only on the cars I've dealt with
 
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