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How to? Front Coil spring compression?

16K views 68 replies 25 participants last post by  Cougar Bill 
#1 ·
I wanted to install my front shocks and coil springs today. The engine is not in the car so the shocks will have to keep the springs in place. I had borrowed a pair of coil spring compressers from a friend of mine. basically a bolt with two fingers on one end and one finger on the other. I attempted to compress the coil springs with these. Got them down about two inches but not enough to get them in and be able to install the shocks? I can not use an internal compressor as the shock has to be put in before I take the compressor off. Any body have any tips on this or do I have to wait till I put the engine back in?
 
#4 ·
#6 · (Edited)
If you're able to get the springs in, you won't need to shocks to hold them in. Once they are uncompressed, they will stay in place on their own. I'd wait until the engine is in to do the shocks.
 
#23 ·
I Agree i would wait too put the shocks in till you get the eng in and if you have a 390 you may need to wait. so to get the tips to stick thowe and you don't want to have your shocks pilled all the way out with no motor.
If you're able to get the springs in, you won't need to shocks to hold them in. Once they are uncompressed, they will stay in place on their own. I'd wait until the engine is in to do the shocks.
 
#8 ·
He wants to install the shocks while he has them compressed. I don't think that in nessary. I like that compressor you posted. I think I'll get one.
 
#10 ·
Yeah. you will need to have the springs installed then you install the shocks once you have the engine and transmission in the car to allow the car to push the front end down so you can insert the shocks. At the very least get poly spring perches and seats and if possible get roller perches. Makes a huge difference on wear.
 
#11 ·
All the parts are available on ebay to make that spring compressor. I think I have 35.00 in mine with a crush washer and it works like a dream. If you have a welder and want the item numbers I'd be happy to look them up for you in my records.
 
#13 ·
The inside type is available on Amazon as well in many flavors (different manufacturers) and prices. I like KD or OTC for this kind of tool rather than something offshore (although what comes from offshore may be hard to discern). Should be able to be had for around $40 or less shipped. Here's one from ATG that looks good and at a good price: http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Desi...584757&sr=8-7&keywords=coil+spring+compressor
 
#15 ·
I use the internal compressor, but take the slideable hooks off and use the Brannick part that is similar to what is shown in the factory shop manual.
 
#18 · (Edited)
For what it's worth, there's a different guy selling them that's $10 cheaper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261195370724?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
$69.99 + $15.50 shipping, this is the good/better price and people think better than the hook style tool I suggested? WTF, over?

And, what am I missing here? How are you supposed to get the spring out using that thing (that appears to go in place of the shock)?? Unbolt the UCA spring seat from the UCA, remove the UCA and then unscrew the tool? If that's the way it is used, THAT IS RETARDED!
 
#19 ·
#21 ·
That'll work, but where do you put the fork thing? On top of the shock tower or near the bottom of the spring (and the hooks on the top)? If the former, you have to remove the UCA and decompress in the car. With the double hook type I suggested, the spring and compressor come out/go in as a unit. If the fork is used on the down side, then guess it would do the same.

So, I would say if yelo's tool works with the fork down, it would be the safest. Me, I prefer the double pair of hooks type and have never had an issue or even close to an issue.
 
#22 ·
Wow, didn't know there were so many types. Yall think it would be safe to install the springs with no shocks? with the spindle all the way down? Car is on jack stands? I like the safety of the internal compressors more than what I tried.
 
#24 ·
Plus one here for the red plastic case set up. I got mine from autozone, and have had the best luck with them. The hook ones work too, I prefer the other style.
 
#28 ·
The "correct" way to use the redbox one (like the original Branneck unit, which was discontinued about 10 years ago.) Is to lower the finger/rod down thru the shock hole. Hook to the lowest coil you can. The fork goes into the coil at the top. Keep the fingers at 90 degrees to the fork. Tighten thru the shock hole (3/4" socket). Use a floor jack to lift the lower a arm as you tighten to keep tension on the spring.

After a bit you can slowly lower the jack and the spring will fall into your gloved hand. Treat like nitroglycerin! I put it into a cargo blanket for safe keeping while I do the rest of the front end work.

Hope this helps! I've worn one unit outdoing over 100 of these over the years.
 
#32 · (Edited)
...Tighten thru the shock hole (3/4" socket)...
Now you're talking! IMO, this is the right way regardless of whether you elect to use the single set of hooks and fork type or the double set of hooks type.
 
#29 · (Edited)

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#31 ·
The tool I like allows a impact wrench to be used to through the top (with the shock tower cap removed). I think this beats the heck out of cranking a gear wrench or whatever between the turns of the coil.

Having said that, to each their own!
 
#30 ·
With the cut coils in my car, I don't need to compress them as much so I'm able to turn the tool right-side-up and crank the bolt with a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket through the shock hole. :ylsup:
 
#36 ·
Well went to work today on installing the springs. Ended up going to Autozone and renting one of the ones in the red plastic box. Leaned a few lessons and it took me all day up till eight o:clock tonight to get one spring installed! My arm and shoulder are killing me. Using an open end wrench to boot. I tried to position the compressor so that I could turn it from the shock tower opening. No go. bolt would extend to far down into the spring seat. Ended up compressing and un compressing the spring five times before I got it right. Then found out there was to much friction to loosen it once I had it on the car. Off it came and I struggled to get the compressor back off. Then I greased the heck out of the bolt and the washers at the bolt head. One more time. Springs are seventeen and a half inches un compressed. Had to compress it down to eleven and a half to get it in. The last time with the help of a socket and extension on the fork to hold it I got it in place and released the compressor. If my arm is up to it I will do the other one tomorrow. should only take a couple hours or less this time. If I thought I would have to do this over I would invest in a tool that worked through the shock opening definitely!
 
#40 ·
Well went to work today on installing the springs. Ended up going to Autozone and renting one of the ones in the red plastic box. Leaned a few lessons and it took me all day up till eight o:clock tonight to get one spring installed! My arm and shoulder are killing me. Using an open end wrench to boot. I tried to position the compressor so that I could turn it from the shock tower opening. No go. bolt would extend to far down into the spring seat. Ended up compressing and un compressing the spring five times before I got it right. Then found out there was to much friction to loosen it once I had it on the car. Off it came and I struggled to get the compressor back off. Then I greased the heck out of the bolt and the washers at the bolt head. One more time. Springs are seventeen and a half inches un compressed. Had to compress it down to eleven and a half to get it in. The last time with the help of a socket and extension on the fork to hold it I got it in place and released the compressor. If my arm is up to it I will do the other one tomorrow. should only take a couple hours or less this time. If I thought I would have to do this over I would invest in a tool that worked through the shock opening definitely!
With the right tool, this is a 20 minute job.
 
#39 ·
#41 ·
As bob stated, it's a 20 minute job at best. Get a gear wrench and it speeds up the use of the tool. I'm sure you have now experience how hard it is to get a socket and ratchet in there. Using a box end wrench just takes way too long. I'll be removing the springs on a 67 Cougar project next week. Maybe it's time to make a short video of the process.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
 
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