are these good numbers?
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Thread: are these good numbers?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Hicksville, NY. USPS VMF
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    are these good numbers?

    Reading the CL in Denver, here is a mild built 428 CJ.
    "I ran it on the dyno, at 5000rpm it made 303.6 hp and 372.9 ft/lbs of torque at 6100 feet of elevation on pump gas and a safe afr. The redline is 6000rpm."

    Full ad,
    Hi,

    Up for sale is my 1967 Ford Mustang Coupe with a 428 Cobrajet (CJ Cobra Jet however you like to say it or spell it) and a 4 speed toploader. I purchased this vehicle as a shell in December of 2010 and spent the first quarter of 2011 building it. I have invested over $35,000 just in the vehicle and parts; not including all of the labor hours as well. I have receipts (all dated 2011) for almost every part in the car as well as all of the machine work; and what I do not have receipts for I have pictures of when it was installed if it is not visibly apparent. I currently have the car appraised and insured at $29,000 as I have not updated it since the car was finished (the appraisal assessment was done as the car sat before it was even running). I have about a hundred pictures of the build and I am happy to email them to you if so desire. The car is not numbers matching as a 428 Cobrajet was not offered as an option in 1967. I built this vehicle with top quality, name brand parts as I had originally intended to keep it as my weekend cruiser. However, after finishing most everything I have found that I never really drive the car. I drove it up and down Academy a few times, but then I found myself not really going anywhere and I was only taking it out on sunny days, letting it warm up, I never took it to run errands. Basically I never did any of the things I planned to do with it because I never wanted to leave it anywhere nor did I want to always wait for it to warm up. I have only put about 500 miles since I finished the build and I don't anticipate putting many more on it as I haven't even taken it out of the garage since August. I start it in the garage but I've found I drive it extremely rarely and have decided that with the limited time I drive it I would rather build an AC Cobra instead. The car is in overall good condition however it definitely still needs some work. If you have any questions you are welcome to send me a message with your phone number and I would be happy to call you at your convenience. I am also happy to discuss any details you would like through email/message as messages go directly to my phone and I generally respond with a few hours of receiving them. I have included a parts list at the end of the listing; however I've probably left things off of it as there is a mountain of stuff to list. The best way is to contact me and talk about it if you have any questions! The only major thing the car needs is some paintwork and potentially some fender flares molded in when the paint is done. I would be happy to arrange to have the paintwork done on the buyer's behalf and the details of that would have to be discussed with any serious offers; I am on good terms with the owner of Color Zone and could arrange to have it professionally done there. Other than that it has many minor issues that would have to be resolved as comes with owning a 1967, however none of the issues are major and most are just the ongoing maintenance that comes with owning a vintage muscle car. I have found the AC Cobra that I will be replacing this car with and already made arrangements to purchase it so I am not interested in trades, I received offers last time on everything from Harleys to Speedboats but I am only interested in cash. Thank you very much for looking!!!

    Pros:
    Almost every part of the engine/transmission/driveline/suspension/interior is new or new old stock
    It's a fully-built 428CJ with an original Toploader, brand new clutch, flywheel, and hydraulic clutch system
    All of the interior has been redone, the autometer gauges are in the stock positions and look like they belong. The only "modern" part is that it has an excellent Pioneer Stereo with CD Player, MP3, Pandora, and iPhone/Bluetooth Capability
    9 Inch Rear End, Race Suspension, Front Disc Brakes
    All name brand parts from reputable dealers with receipts
    Overall no major issues, everything is minor and can be taken care of over time
    I ran it on the dyno, at 5000rpm it made 303.6 hp and 372.9 ft/lbs of torque at 6100 feet of elevation on pump gas and a safe afr. The redline is 6000rpm.

    Cons:
    * * I would be willing to work out a deal to have the car repainted in whatever reasonably standard color a buyer may want, I would be happy to discuss this on the phone so please let me know! **

    "20 Foot" Paintjob - It is currently Acapulco Blue but its original paintcode is for the special edition Springtime Yellow - If it were going to be repainted I would suggest returning it to the original color but it would be cheap and easy to refresh the Acapulco Blue if you wanted.
    The Paintjob looks great at a short distance and at night, it is still very shiny, however it has noticeable chips and scratches up close as well as minor scrape damage to the right rear quarter panel where the previous owner swiped a post at a gas station
    It has almost zero bondo and only a few small spots of surface rust which could be easily taken care of when it was repainted ( thats what I planned to do )
    The fenders had to be trimmed to fit the suspension and the large tires, I would suggest adding fender flares when the car is eventually repainted but they are not necessary if you like the look
    The new tires got a bit scraped up before the fender situation was fully adjusted but the issue is merely cosmetic and only noticeable if you look for it/it's pointed out to you.
    There are small fixes that need to be done to the interior - such as the heater knobs need to be adjusted
    Original Cragar Rims have some flaking that is only apparent from close inspection
    There is an extremely slow oil leak from the drain plug on the Canton pan. I called Canton and complained as it is a brand new pan and they told me that it was unfortunately a common problem. They offered to exchange the pan but I didn't want to go through the effort of taking it all back off. I believe it can be fixed with some simple teflon tape around the drain plug which I intended to do when I change the oil, however I haven't put enough miles on to change the oil yet. There is also a slow leak out of the rear differential from the front seal. It doesn't leak when it's driven but I've noticed it has a slow leak while it has been sitting. I believe that will go away if it is driven semi-regularly.


    Please Note: This list is old and from before I even completed the car, I checked through it quickly for accuracy but I probably left many things out and there may be some updates that I should have made; please message me with your phone number for the best information and so I can answer any questions!

    Engine:

    Fully Machined Block (Western Machine in Denver)
    Decked Block to eliminate quench area detonation issues
    All Oiling Mods Performed
    7Qt Canton Racing Oil Pan with Internal Baffles and Melling high flow oil pump
    Forged 9.6:1 Compression Ratio Dished Pistons
    Forged 428CJ LeMans Rods
    Original 1U 428CJ Crank
    Full ARP Bolt and Bearing Setup for all the Internals/Heads/Block
    Comp Cams 33-601-5 Camshaft ( Mutha' Thumpa )
    Comp Cams Double Roller Timing Chain
    Comp Cams Hydraulic Lifters
    Crane Push Rods
    Glyptal Internals
    Bronze Freeze Plugs
    Hooker Individual Headers
    New Performance Systems Harmonic Balancer

    Heads:

    EDC 68cc Machined Combustion Chambers Heads
    Fully Ported and Matched Intake and Exhaust Passages
    Hardened Valve Seals
    Bronze Valve Guides
    Steel CJ Valves
    Comp Cams Double Valve Springs
    Comp Cams 10 Degree Retainers
    Comp Cams Valve Seats
    Compete Head Job with port and matched everything
    Harland Sharp Adjustable Shaft Mounted Rocker System - S4006BKE
    Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifold 7105 ported and matched to heads


    Accessories:

    Mallory Uni-Lite Ignition Distributor with Vacuum Advance
    MSD 8.5mm Wires
    MSD 6AL Ignitor Box
    MSD Blaster Coil
    Holley 750 Double Pumper
    Engineering Cooling Products Aluminum 3 Core Radiator, 1 Inch Fins, with Electric Fan
    Full Autometer White Face Gauge System in stock positions
    Original Cragar SS Rims
    New BF Goodrich Radial T/A Tires
    Custom Dual Exhaust from local Muscle Car Shop

    Transmission:

    4 Speed Wide Ratio Toploader Transmission with Hurst Shifter and Linkage
    McLeod 28lb Steel Flywheel with 28oz 428CJ Balance
    RAM Clutch and Pressure Plate System setup for 550 ft/lbs tq
    Lakewood Safety Bellhousing
    McLeod/Modern Driveline Hydraulic Clutch setup with Hydraulic Throw-out Bearing

    Suspension/Steering/Braking:

    Ford 69-70 Mustang 9 Inch Rear End with Locker - 3.70 Gear Ratio
    KYB Gas-a-Just Rear Shocks
    4.5 Leaf Opentracker Autocross Rear Leaf Springs
    Opentracker Solid Rear Perches
    Opentracker Racing Leaf Shackles
    Upgraded Rear Drum Brakes

    620# GT Front Springs
    KYB Gas-a-Just Front Shocks
    Opentracker Tubed Upper Control Arms with Upgraded Roller Bearing
    Opentracker Roller Spring Perches
    Grab-a-Trak Lower Control Arm
    Solid K-Member
    Opentracker 1 1/8" Front Sway Bar
    Shelby-Arner 1" Drop to adjust suspension geometry
    Global West Sub-Frame Connectors
    Reinforced Shock Tower Walls

    Moog Racing Front Steering Assembly with Roller Arms
    Adjustable Strut Rods
    Monte Carlo Bar
    CSRP 4 Piston Front Disc Brake Swap with Slotted Rotors and Proportioning Valve Setup

    Here is a list of some of the part numbers:

    Canton Oil Pan: 15-820
    Canton Oil Pickup: 15-821
    Melling Oil Pump: M-57HV
    Pistons: Still Looking
    Rods: C7AE-B
    Crank: C6AZ-6303-B
    ARP Kits: 155-4201
    ARP: 255-6402
    ARP: 255-1801
    ARP: 155-5401
    ARP: 555-9702
    ARP: 100-2801 and the ARP Cam Bolt Kit
    Comp Cams Camshaft: 33-601-5
    Comp Cams Lifters: 834-16
    Comp Cams Valve Springs: 924-16
    Comp Cams Retainers: Not Sure, 10 Degree
    Comp Cams Valve Locks: 612-16
    Comp Cams Valve Seals: 504-16
    Comp Cams Timing Set: 3108KT
    Crane Push Rods: 34645-16
    Harmonic Dampner: 80009
    Holley 110GPH Fuel Pump: 12-390-11
    New Melling? CJ Valves: VO637
    Hooker Headers: 6114HKR
    Harland Sharp Rocker System: S4006BKE
    Edelbrock Intake: 7105
    Precision Oil Pumps Rocker Stud Set
    Precision Oil Pumps Billet HD Oil Pump Driveshaft
    Precision Oil Pumps Cam Retainer Plate Kit
    ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit: 100-2801
    RobbMC Gen II Mini-Starter: PN 3001 with Pinion Support 2025
    Mallory Distributor: 4755301
    MSD Wires: 31199
    MSD 6AL: 6421
    MSD Blaster Coil: 8202
    Holley: 4150 750cfm double pump mechanical secondaries I think 0-80535-1
    ECR Radiator: It says 320684820092 but I don't know if that's the part number
    Autometer Speedometer: 5895
    Autometer Tachometer: 5898
    Autometer Fuel Gauge: 5715
    Autometer Oil Pressure: 5727
    Autometer Temp: 5737
    Northwest Mustangs Gauge Cluster Plate: No Part Number
    Modern Driveline Hydraulic Clutch System: MD-910-0012 ( with McLeod Hydraulic Throw-out Bearing )
    Scott Drake Roller Clutch Pedal Assembly: C5ZZ-2478-RBMK
    McLeod Flywheel: 463215-28
    RAM Clutch: Either 98769T or 98769HD I can't remember which one, I believe the T was put in
    Lakewood Bellhousing: 15210
    CSRP Brake Kit: Swap 1 4 Piston Caliper Kit
    Opentracker Stuff: Basically everything you can buy for a Mustang, www.opentrackerracingproducts.com I think I spent $2000 on suspension and steering components here, I have the invoice still in my records
    Global West Subframe Connectors: 911
    Export Brace: Don't Know
    Monte Carlo Bar: Don't Know - I think I got this and the Export Brace from Mustangs Plus
    Pioneer Radio: DEH-P8300UB
    Speakers: I don't have the part numbers on but there are new tiny speakers under the dash and 6x9s in the package tray
    I also have all new interior and exterior chrome pieces; but they are just the stock replacement pieces
    The Exhaust is a full Dual with H-Pipe Crossover done by a local muscle car shop (Muffler Masters); I have a receipt for I think $700 dollars for it, I can't remember but I do have the receipt in my mustang folder
    I had the seats redone in new old stock seat covers with TMI Foam on the original frames at a local classic car custom upholstery shop, I have a receipt for $450 dollars in labor plus another $300 in parts
    The GT Flip Down Gas Cap is an original 67 with the correct 1967 part number stamped on it from Ford.

    If you have any questions or would like to see the car, feel free to message me with your name and phone number and I will call you. My Craigslist email goes straight to my phone so I will generally respond within a few hours.

    You can alternatively call/text me at 7 one 9 four four O one zero 0 seven. Thank you very much for looking and have a great day!!!

    $21,000 or best offer; feel free to make an offer I may be negotiable if you catch me on the right day! : ) "


    http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2925912119.html

    For the money, and what it is, I just don't know what to think about the numbers...
    What do you think?
    67 XR7, 68 5 SP, 69 5 speed build in progress

    *Disclaimer!! All info provided by the woodsnake is free, and worth what it costs!! Use with caution*

    What can I say, I like Cougars...
    " yer darn right wow "
    All my projects, pictures and audio clips.
    http://s819.photobucket.com/albums/z...dsnake4462838/


    "Time to let the Cougar loose" R.B.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Cedar Rapids, Iowa
    Age
    49
    Posts
    9,144

    Re: are these good numbers?

    What a novel! LOL Usually CL ads are way underworded. Those aren't horrible numbers - looks like he wasn't very agggresive on the Dyno and kept it pretty conservative. For at the wheel HP you could bump it up some at 6K RPM
    1969 E-cat warmed-over 351W AOD

    1969 XR7 S Code vert in progress

    1968 F code XR7 - waiting for re-imbursment from bro-in law :>\

    1998 F150 4x4 D.D - 300k on the clock!

    2001 F150 4x4 backup for 98 ;>P

    2 x 1985 Suzuki Madura 1200's. One done - one in progress

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Hicksville, NY. USPS VMF
    Age
    49
    Posts
    7,264

    Re: are these good numbers?

    But aren't there small block guys now getting close or better than this? I always thought that the torque a big block made was why we bother, but 373 ft lbs?
    I think I am disappointed at output from a "legendary" Ford engine...
    67 XR7, 68 5 SP, 69 5 speed build in progress

    *Disclaimer!! All info provided by the woodsnake is free, and worth what it costs!! Use with caution*

    What can I say, I like Cougars...
    " yer darn right wow "
    All my projects, pictures and audio clips.
    http://s819.photobucket.com/albums/z...dsnake4462838/


    "Time to let the Cougar loose" R.B.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Grafton, Ohio
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    56
    Posts
    5,470

    Re: are these good numbers?

    Quote Originally Posted by woodsnake View Post
    But aren't there small block guys now getting close or better than this? I always thought that the torque a big block made was why we bother, but 373 ft lbs?
    I think I am disappointed at output from a "legendary" Ford engine...
    Remember, that is at 6100' elevation! That makes a BIG difference!!!!

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